Vermeidung von Ölnebel im Ansaugtrakt | Posts 16+

"Am I understanding correctly that you want to build up oil pressure using charging pressure? Wouldn't that be an oil pressure fitting rather than an oil vent?"
Think about it again for a moment!

No, the turbocharger's boost pressure should force the oil back into the engine, for example, through the oil filler cap.

No, the turbocharger's boost pressure is supposed to blow the oil back into the engine, for example, through the oil filler cap.

I understand... unfortunately, the pressure inside the engine block is always greater than the boost pressure, because the blow-by gases are driven by combustion pressures of more than 100 bar... what's 1 bar of boost pressure compared to that? }

Regards,
Michl.

Hello,

MichlM wrote:

Cord wrote: No, the boost pressure is supposed to blow the oil back into the engine, for example, through the oil filler cap. I understand already...

Unfortunately not.

MichlM wrote:

Unfortunately, the pressure inside the engine block is always greater than the boost pressure, because the blow-by gases are driven by combustion pressures of more than 100 bar... what's 1 bar of boost pressure in comparison?

Unfortunately, that's incorrect. You can tell if what you're saying is nonsense by opening the oil filler cap while the engine is running.

I think Cord's idea is quite good, but there's one thing I don't like about it: Dust from the intake air that has passed through the air filter will be transported into the engine oil even faster than a small amount of blow-by gas.

Best regards, Rainer.

@ Rainer:

Cord wrote that the 'LADEDRUCK should push the oil into the crankcase.'

Boost pressure only occurs under load, and that's when you also get a lot of blow-by.

It's a different story that, even at idle or under load, the oil can still be 'SUCKED' due to the vacuum created in the crankcase.

Regards,
Michl.

Hello Michl,

The boost pressure in all the TDI engines I know is above 0.9 bar under load. This is significantly more than the vacuum/pressure that a good engine has in the crankcase.
It would therefore work.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Michl,
How do you secure your dipstick?
It would easily be lost at a pressure of 1 bar.

Yes, tell me, am I completely stupid and didn't understand anything you said (even though I've read it several times)? Or what?
Do you want to route the boost pressure into the crankcase via a container?
"Umm, what's the point of that besides causing a huge performance loss?"
That little bit of oil mist that's inside, it's enough to briefly redirect the pressure every few weeks... or something along those lines, but is that permanently a technical flaw or not?

No, the boost pressure is only supposed to push the oil that has accumulated in the container back into the engine. The height difference should be less than 1 meter; for a 1-meter water column, you need 0.1 bar, and since oil is slightly lighter, it's less than 0.1 bar.
Therefore, it should work. With a sufficiently small 'oil supply line' or a sufficiently small nozzle, the pressure loss in the charging system is certainly negligible.
However, I have concerns about whether the oil film will inevitably be drawn into the intake manifold anyway, so whether oil actually accumulates in the collection container. Therefore, wouldn't an additional oil separation system be necessary?

Okay, tell me, am I completely stupid and did I not understand anything you said (even though I've read it several times)? Or what?
Do you want to route the boost pressure into the crankcase via a container?
'Umm, what's the point of that other than causing a huge performance loss?'
That little bit of oil mist that's inside, it's enough to briefly redirect the pressure every few weeks... or something along those lines, but is that permanently a technical flaw or not???


I actually find the idea quite compelling...

You must only read very carefully and then think about it.

He collects the oil at the lowest point and then uses the pressure in the charging system to push it towards the head cover. If you read it carefully, you'll also notice that he doesn't intend to use a 3/4' hose there, but rather very thin material, possibly even with a throttle valve. This means: if oil is in the container, 0.9 bar will resist and push it towards the cyclo. If the line is empty, the throttle limits the flow to harmless values. It's similar to the cooling circuit in a refrigerator/climate control system .

or, to put it in the words of LI: 'might work, might work.'

CU Gremlin.

Well, I'm still very skeptical for three reasons.
1. What should I do with my 1.6 bar LD ?
2. You shouldn't assume that it will flow in like a drilling platform; only a small amount of mist comes out, and not much of it. Do you really think that it accumulates in the LLK (low-level collection) to the point where entire oil separators fill up ? Then, it's pushed back with 0.9 bar (in my case, 1.6 bar) through a throttle valve . Okay, as long as there's something inside, but what do you do when that thing is empty (and I assume it usually is)?
3. All that dirt, dust, and whatever else would contaminate the oil (sooner or later).

but okay, I'll let myself be convinced that the idea works, but is it sensible? For me, it stops being worthwhile when I think about the fact that I could only lose a maximum of MB of pressure.


As I've said before, remove the hose and go down below. Insert a stopper into the intake manifold, remove the throttle body, verschandeln out any sludge, disconnect the AGR valve, and enjoy the increased power in the lower RPM range.
"Anyone who ever removes their intake manifold will agree that the EGR valve and oil separator should not be located there."
Doesn't humanity usually orient itself according to nature and build its machines based on that? Have you ever seen animals eat their own... excrement??? }

'Normally, humans always look to nature for inspiration and design their machines accordingly, right? Have you ever seen any animals that eat their own feces?'
Well, the comparison is a bit of a stretch. Car manufacturers don't design the AGR (selective catalytic reduction) system and the crankcase ventilation system to annoy us.
Without these measures, for example, it's impossible to control NOx emissions. If you remove this [referring to a specific measure], it certainly won't have any impact on our air quality, but if tens of thousands of cars and trucks are equipped with 'defective' EGR systems, it unfortunately will have a significant impact. And in the US, where truck manufacturers were also manipulating the EGR system (designing it so that it only worked effectively during testing), the government has now taken action. Here, the whole situation is still unresolved.

If you're so worried about your precious boost pressure, then add a magnetic valve in between that connects to the EGR system instead of the turbocharger when there's high load. When there's significant load, the valve closes, and only oil is recirculated during partial load conditions. In my opinion, the throttle body already provides sufficient control; 2 bar or even 2.6 bar is insignificant... We're talking about a very small flow rate of just a few liters per hour... That's enough to draw in the oil and won't cause any issues at the top of the Zyko (presumably referring to an engine component).
Stay cheerful.
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

a few liters per hour
AGAIN, THERE'S NO OIL FLOWING THROUGH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD!
Only oil vapor, which is produced during the heating of the oil, is drawn into the intake manifold (and this is further encouraged by a slight vacuum when drawing in air), and normally this amount is minimal and will not accumulate in the intercooler! I've personally seen intercoolers fill up until the engine starts sucking oil, but that has always been due to other issues!

@mozz

I would bet that OlBe meant 'a few liters of AIR per hour' and not 'a few liters of OIL per hour.'

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