Unrunder Lauf nach Wechsel des ZMS am 1.9TDi BLS | Posts 16+

Thank you again for your continued and enthusiastic support.

I can't completely rule out the possibility that the problem existed before, as I took over the car with a rattling dual-mass flywheel and postponed the repair until spring.

The sealing ring is pressed into the original tool to an exact depth. In my opinion, there's nothing you can do wrong there.
Currently, I have ordered a camshaft sensor and a crankshaft sensor and I am hoping for delivery today.

It remains exciting, and I am ambitious .

Why doesn't anyone test anything before replacing it anymore...? Check the connector, measure the connection to the control module, look at the signal... it's almost like being in a dealership workshop here.

Measurements showed no abnormalities.
I only borrow the oscilloscope from work for the weekend to examine the signals. I've checked all the cables thoroughly up to the control unit, so I can rule that out as the cause.

Since I drive 154 km every day for my commute, functionality is more important. As long as the weather is nice, I use my motorcycle to leave the car parked in the garage.

Hey guys, no offense, but there's a pretty significant difference in knowledge level between the person who created this post and the people responding.
The approach is not effective because it involves making changes in numerous areas simultaneously, and fundamental questions are not being adequately addressed.

A faulty ZMS (dual-mass flywheel) simply rattles – and it's relatively easy to detect, and it's probably difficult to distinguish from normal variations in the rotational speed of the shafts.

SG - Manfred

Thank you for your personal assessment of my skills.

Since they probably aren't sufficient to be part of the community, we could close this amount here. However, if there is still interest in keeping the spirit of the forum alive, I'll summarize the idea again:

The starting point was a faulty ZMS (presumably referring to a specific component).
When attempting to replace it, it was discovered that the crankshaft seal was leaking. This seal, along with the timing disc, was installed using original VW tools. To replace the timing disc, the engine needs to be at Top Dead Center (TDC) for correct installation. To achieve this, the timing belt cover was removed. During this process, it was found that the water pump was slightly leaking, despite being replaced 40,000 km ago (by VW).
That's why a new timing belt kit was installed.
Everything reassembled, the engine starts, and the synchronization angle is at -0.5, which is definitely okay.
What I noticed afterward was that when the engine is running at 1000-1350 RPM without being in gear, it has a very slight, minimal "stutter" or "misfire."

There are no error codes, and the car runs perfectly fine up to the redline.

Following that, I've been using the testing tool for the past two weeks to try and identify the cause.

Here's what I can successfully rule out:

- Compression is 27 bar or higher on all cylinders.
- The diesel filter and diesel pressure are fine.
-PD units were checked at Bosch and fitted with new seals according to specifications.
-The wiring harness has been tested for continuity to the control unit.
-Agr is clean.
- The vacuum sensor and vacuum lines are sealed.

The pressure loss in the charge air cooler system was caused by aluminum oxide buildup on the hose, which has now resulted in a pressure drop of 60 mbar below the target value.

Otherwise, there remains the discrepancy between the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor, which varies sporadically and differently depending on the component, as mentioned above.


My efforts are a result of my abilities, but a forum should serve as a place for development and growth.

Hi,
It sounds a bit offended. However, when dealing with issues related to stability, one should focus on those specific problems.
- What are the individual compression values, and how are they determined?
- What are the idle resting values?
- what are the switching time variations of the individual power electronic devices?
- What does a log showing crankshaft speed and camshaft speed indicate?
A request for a car scan has already been made.
More data and less prose would be good.
hg
Herbert.

Then explain to a simpleton from Tyrol how that works.

"The charging pressure at idle is too low, approximately 130 mbar below the target value".

works!

That would still be mildly interesting to me, even here in this kindergarten.

If this boost pressure is about 130 mbar lower than the normal pressure at your altitude, then I would say your turbocharger has a problem. Normally, there is no boost pressure when the engine is idling.

Have you ever checked your load control settings? What is the pressure difference between the boost pressure at 0% and 90%?

SG

PS: Even if you're offended, I certainly won't jump off the train!

I haven't gotten around to measuring the compression yet, but I have recorded the measurement values and attached them here.

Personally, I don't notice anything unusual.

Hi,
I wouldn't initially attribute too much significance to the difference between the target and actual boost pressure at idle. What's important is that it's properly adjusted when needed.
The running instability and switching times are also good as a snapshot. Do these values remain constant over time, even if the engine is misfiring?
hg
Herbert.

The values are constant, and the motor also has power.

The fuel consumption for a Golf 5 Variant, when driven gently, is between 4.7 and 5.1 liters.

It's not a hard jolt, but you can feel it from the driver's seat, and you can feel it in the engine.