Stoßdämpfer wechseln Passat 35i | Posts 16+

kann ich Dir morgen sagen (aber nicht viel): 330 Euro für Trommeln und Bremsscheiben inklusive Beläge vorne und hinten, Gasdruckfeder inklusive Bälge und Puffer, Radbremszylinder hinten, Radlager hinten

What to use for interior trim removal in the Passat Kombi trunk: It's relatively easy to remove once you get it out. First, you definitely need to remove the seat cover, as this causes most of the problems. To do this, use a flathead screwdriver (they are ideal for this) and carefully examine the seat cover. You'll see that it is attached to a metal guide and only locks in place. You insert the screwdriver into the locking groove and push it in until the cover comes loose. Then you can remove it completely and you won't have any more problems with the rest, as it is only attached with hooks and screws. You only need to remove the upper cover to change the shock, as far as I could see during the system installation. Regarding the limo, I'm not sure how it works, as we have a regular car.

Best regards, WarLord

What to remove for the interior trim in the Passat Combi trunk: It's relatively easy to remove once you get it out. First, you definitely need to remove the seat cover, as this causes most of the problems. To do this, use a flathead screwdriver (they are ideal for this) and carefully examine the seat cover. You'll see that it is attached to a metal guide and only locks in place. You insert it into the locking groove and push the screwdriver in as far as it goes until the cover comes loose. Then you can remove it completely and you won't have any more problems with the rest, as it is only attached with hooks and screws. You only need to remove the upper cover to change the shock, as far as I could see during the system installation. Regarding the limo, I'm not sure how it works, as we have a regular car.

Best regards, WarLord

That concludes the theory!

WarLord wrote:

You drive into the locking slot and push the screwdriver in as far as it goes until the cover comes loose. Then you can remove them very easily and won't have any further problems with the rest, as they are only attached with hooks and screws.

Hi,

I've already started -> so the locking modules worked with this assistance (but one still had some problems Joerg is right: this is still not enough. All the cladding and stuff around it needs to be removed in order to access the two stupid screws.

What also worries me is the assembly of the shock absorber. The upper shock absorber mount must be exactly in the correct position (relative to the lower screw axis) in order for the screws to fit properly. Is this position predetermined by the shock absorber above and below (e.g., the attachment of the shock absorber end to a curve), or must I, like in the instructions in the mechanic's book, use a protractor to adjust it

Hi,

So, ich habe den ganzen Kram mit dem Winkelmesser usw. nicht gemacht. Ich habe den Federbein noch nicht gelöst. Zuerst wurde die obere Federbeinaufnahme eingebaut und dann haben zwei Personen die Schrauben reingedreht, dann wurde das Federbein in die untere Aufnahme eingesetzt und befestigt und dann wurde das Federbein gelöst. Das hat ganz gut funktioniert! Es ist zwar nicht perfekt, aber es hat sich bewährt (bereits zum zweiten Mal) und hat bei meinem Passat bisher etwa 20.000 km gehalten und war auch beim Spur ausgleichen im grünen Bereich! Was die Innenverkleidung betrifft: Ich hatte bei meinem Variant fast alles abmontiert. Wenn man vorsichtig ist, geht das schon. Aber so verschiedene Teile zu zerlegen, ist einfach ätzend und zeitaufwendig! Du schaffst das schon! Du musst nur immer schauen, was wo wie zu machen ist.st is ! I replaced everything completely at the time, including wheel bearings, wheel brake cylinders, brake pads, front shock absorbers, front wheel bearings, brake shoes, outer axle joints (the inner ones were brand new), and front and rear brake lines, and I was very busy!

Hi,

"Finally, the job is done." "I was lucky not to have to replace the brake drums, etc., and only had to change the shocks." The costumes are a bit annoying, but if you know how to deal with them, it's not so bad

To install the shock absorbers, it's also sufficient to use a second jack to lift the shock absorber slightly, so that the upper screws can be inserted without a second person. It was a bit surprising that the shock absorber can be inserted straight upwards. According to "So wirds gemacht", there should be a mechanism where the shock absorber can be "attached" (placed slightly offset and then rotated)

On the tank side, the shock absorber only comes out when the spring is pre-loaded (the fill tube from the tank is in the way). My spring tensioner got quite bent during the replacement (-> never skimp on tools ).

@joerg:

The cushions and covers cost 22 euros each for both sides.

Hello,

Hi,

On the tank side, the shock absorber only comes out when the spring is pre-loaded (the fill tube from the tank is in the way). My spring tensioner got quite bent during the replacement (-> never skimp on tools ).


There, the clever book probably omitted something. If you loosen both shock absorbers on the rear axle, there is enough space to easily insert and remove the dampers.

Even if the plastic cap is in good condition, you can attach and secure the shock absorber alone, without any tools.

Applying a disguise takes no more than 10 minutes per page.

FBonNET wrote:

If both shock absorbers on the rear axle are removed, there is sufficient space to insert and remove the shock absorbers straight.

Hi,

That is of course correct, but I generally have concerns about lowering the axle: anything beyond the normal turning angle puts an additional load on the rear axle bushings .

Hi,

That is, of course, correct, but I generally have concerns about lowering the axle: anything beyond the normal turning angle puts an additional load on the rear axle bushings

Of course, it's obvious that you shouldn't let the axle fall completely, but why go to all the trouble to repair it, perhaps even repaint it. Damaged rear frame protection.

'This is how it has always been done, and usually, if the shock absorbers are worn out, you should also think about the rear axle bushings at the same time.'

What will a new shock absorber do if the suspension is rattling around like a dachshund?

FBonNET wrote:

So far, this has always been the approach, and often, when the shock absorbers are worn out, it's best to also check the rear axle bushings.

Hi,

Have you ever replaced the bushings on a 35i yourself? I still remember the hard work I had with my old Passat: removing the rear axle and then ruthlessly smashing the old bushings with a chisel

This is the usual approach, and often, if the shock absorbers are worn out, you should also consider the rear suspension bushings.

Hi,

Have you ever replaced the bushings on a 35i yourself? I still remember the hard work I had with my old Passat: removing the rear axle and then ruthlessly smashing the old bushings with a chisel

Hello,

Something like that, I always start by removing the rubber first, and then I knock the bushing out afterwards.

Basically, these things are used with a threaded rod and two large discs that are shaped to fit the form of the bushing.

Preferably replace 2x HA connector instead of making 1x ZKD