DIY Special Wrench: Build Your Own! | Posts 16+

Hello fellow mechanics,

@Subman82

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to test it yet because the special screw with the special head cannot be loosened with a size 7 socket. You need the tool, which no Bosch dealer in my area wants to provide...

Okay, if someone tells me how to remove the screw without welding anything to it, hammering on it, or otherwise destroying it, I'm willing to be the guinea pig and try it!
Does anyone have an idea??

I made a tool myself, simply by taking a 7mm ring wrench and using a 5mm round file to file down these 3 'rounded edges,' and the homemade special wrench fits.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'l.g. weku'

'Best regards, weku'

I had already considered doing that, but I probably need a Dremel tool for it.

@ULF!

based on the image provided.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

You must press the REFERENCE RING counter-clockwise!

I was only told a little bit. You can obviously repeat this 2-3 times, depending on how small the steps are, so it's best to start small and then try to increase it. That's how I'm going to do it!

If you manage to loosen the screw, please let me know! I'm probably going to try with my colleague next Monday. If that doesn't work, I'll probably have to replace the entire MSW (Main System Board).

He said the problem was that adjusting and resealing, which the company always does, becomes expensive due to the labor hours involved.

PLEASE KEEP ME UPDATED.
I don't want to use anyone here as a guinea pig. You can wait until I've tried it next week!
MFG SUBMAN82.

subman82 wrote:

@ ULF! based on the image provided. I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL. You must press the REFERENCE RING counter-clockwise! Only a very small amount was said to me.

Effect: The RWG characteristic curve is not only shifted, but its slope also becomes less steep.

Success: more power loss than reduction in jolting, and before you know it, the setpoint values are no longer within the tolerance range -> error message and flashing heating element.

Since we're dealing with fractions of a millimeter, it's practically impossible to get the RWG (referring to a specific component or system) back into the correct range without an LCR meter or diagnostic tool, making it difficult to stop the flickering.

These are my experiences from attempts to optimize pump performance.
However, I didn't "compress" the reference ring, meaning I didn't bend it, but rather loosened the clamping screw, as is structurally intended for adjusting the setting.

Quote:

I DON'T WANT TO USE ANYONE HERE AS A GUINEA PIG, YOU CAN ALSO WAIT UNTIL I'VE DONE IT NEXT WEEK!!

Why do you always shout in the middle of things (-> Social faux pas No. ?

I'm writing the important things in capital letters so that everyone can read them.

I didn't know exactly what I was supposed to adjust, but that's good, now that you've told me!
I will print out your objection and address it directly.

Sure, no problem!

Let's see what he says about it. Otherwise, someone wanted to explain a new type of measuring device to me. The price will probably be kept within reasonable limits. I hope so!

But thank you anyway!

hi!

We re-checked the injection timing using the VAG5051 (01 engine control, 04 basic setting, 000) and compared the injection timing (2nd field) with the diesel temperature (9th field, if I remember correctly). For the 1Z engine, at a temperature of 110 degrees Celsius, which I had at the time of the measurement, the injection timing should be around 50. However, I only measured around 22, which is close to the tolerance limit.
I then adjusted it and set it to the middle of the characteristic curve (as specified in the repair manual) to 47. Small deviations will be automatically corrected.
Anyway, it doesn't jerk anymore.

Let's hope this fixes the issue and helps at least some of you.

Sorry.

Adjusting the initial injection settings properly is definitely a good idea, but it's not a (general) solution to prevent stuttering.

"Mine sprays perfectly along the center line, but it sputters (although only when it's cold outside, below 5 degrees Celsius)."

Be careful with values from block 000 and units!
In block 000, there are no degree Celsius values, only raw measurements, so please be careful not to mix up the data.

The values are converted to natural units (e.g., Kelvin, Celsius, milligrams, etc.) starting from block 001.

m;

hi!
I was hoping for a reaction like that!
I didn't mean to imply that it's a general solution, which is why I wrote at the end that I might be able to help 'some' people.

It might be something that others could also check, as it doesn't cost anything, and that's what most people are concerned about. If it helps, all the better

hello peter

@dieselmartin

I don't want to scare you, but I remember that my 1Z also only sputtered when it was cold outside at first. Later, it also happened in the summer, and eventually, at those RPMs, it was almost undriveable... (The timeframe for me was about 1 year or 35,000 km).

@all
The price difference between replacing just the switchgear and replacing the entire ESP (Electronic Stability Program) was only 150 euros.

Hi, it's me again!

I spoke to him again about your response. He told me that it only happens if the reference ring is bent too much. He said that if you're careful, it's like adjusting a carburetor to run a little richer.

I'll definitely give it a try and then report back. If further problems arise, I'll either install a new MST unit or, depending on the cost of the pump, a new pump.
I don't want to argue with you again, but he also said that it could happen.

Thank you for your warning!

Have a good trip, Peter!

subman82 wrote:

I spoke to him again about your answer. He told me that it only happens if you bend the reference ring too much. If you proceed carefully, it's like adjusting a carburetor engine to be a little richer.

Pfff... unfortunately, the VP-TDI engine only misfires (among other things) when the fuel injection is set too rich!
To remedy this, one must "de-fatten" -> meaning a loss of performance.

But go ahead and try it, maybe it will work out somehow, and the performance loss might still be bearable for you.

performance loss!??!?!?!NO!!!

No, he shouldn't have that. 90 horsepower is the absolute minimum; if he ever had that, it was when I got him with 260,000 kilometers.

I'll just try it and that's it. Have a nice day!