Turbogeräusch | Posts 16+

Hi Uwe,

What was it due to? Did the excessive play in the bearings of the loading shaft cause the impeller wheels to rub against the housing?
Was there no unusually high oil consumption previously?

Best regards, Rainer.

The warehouse is only lightly stocked. Otherwise, before the problem occurred, there were no other indications of impending damage, including no oil consumption.

The cause of the detachment is also unclear. It's likely that a single bucket came loose and detached the others. There's nothing visible, but the loading buckets are simply missing. Hopefully, the new turbocharger (Garrett) will arrive tomorrow!

Best regards,
Uwe

Slightly off-topic:

The turbocharger on my (un-chipped) 1.8 T engine, which produces 225 horsepower, has also failed. He sucks, blows, and makes strange noises.

The background: I changed the oil 2000 km ago, and unfortunately I put in the wrong oil. I foolishly relied on tips from a forum, and now I'm stuck. Well, the oil is approved for the 150 hp and 180 hp 1.8T engines, but the 225 hp engine needs a different one. Specifically, 0W40 or 0W30. I put in 5W40. After a prolonged period of high-speed operation (10 minutes >260), the loader then emitted a distinct, 'even' whistling sound under load.

Several people now claim that this is not related to the oil and therefore cannot be caused by it. However, I believe it is. Can someone clarify/explain this?

Now (after 1000 km with the whistling sound), it's getting louder and more annoying. The performance is still good. I'm just afraid that it will break everything. Is it possible that some particles could pass through both (yes, the 225 has two catalytic converters) and then end up lubricating the engine compartment?

Yesterday, I ordered a new turbo from VW... but I still need to drive the car for a few more days before installing it. I think it will be fine as long as I drive carefully.

arne

Hi Arne!

Please read my first post again carefully. My defect manifested with a slight humming sound even before the charger was fully inserted. With a diesel engine, you practically already have some pressure starting from idle.

If your charger starts to fail like mine did, you might be able to prolong its lifespan somewhat by driving more cautiously. I still want to point out that, in my case, the motor definitely chewed up my finely ground impeller blades.

I have no idea how much damage it caused. It seems like no one else has had similar experiences here.

Sorry about your loader.

Best regards,
Uwe

Okay, here's the translation:

"Ready." The new turbo is installed, and it runs like it's brand new.

I somehow have the feeling that it's gotten louder. However, this can be very subjective, as I might subconsciously be expecting a different sound, and diesel engines already make a noise similar to my grandfather's tractor.

In other words: I still don't know what happened to the engine. I took a closer look at the turbocharger. The shaft has about 1 mm of axial play. That probably caused its demise. I can't understand why the turbine blades sheared off in the process. It may have broken off and then destroyed the others.

Whoever designed this thing should be shot, seriously. It's so cramped in here that the biggest challenge was getting the loader out the back. It would have been better to remove the engine .

Well, he's definitely going to drive again eventually.

Best regards,
Uwe

Hello Uwe,

Concerned by your report about axial play in the loader shaft, I decided to check the axial play in my own loader.

Despite the noticeable humming noise at low load, I couldn't detect any axial play. The radial play seems to be within the normal range (I have two other good chargers at home for comparison).

It's possible, or even likely, that the change in noise you're experiencing is caused by axial play, unless the crash itself caused it.
However, regarding my charger, I can say that the issue is not caused by axial play.

It was also noticeable that my engine hadn't been running for two days at that point, and the supercharger shaft wasn't turning freely.

I then started it up, although it always takes a few seconds for the turbo to become audible. After that, I was able to easily rotate the wave with my finger.
Therefore, I recommend that everyone let the TDI engine run for a short time before driving off after starting it. Otherwise, a dry charging station might overheat, and that's not good.

What does the inside of your compressor housing look like? You should be able to see if the shovels have hit something hard.

Although the loader was disassembled and lying in front of me, I couldn't see inside. You can only see the impeller wheel with its trimmed blades. Otherwise, no irregularities were observed.

I don't have it anymore either, since I had to return it.

By the way, I'm still having issues with my Neverending Story car. After 3 days, a pressure hose burst just after the charger. While searching for the leak, I noticed that my oil pan looks like a can of sardines. My initial suspicion was that I made a mistake during the oil change after the turbo replacement. However, the screw was tight. The oil was clearly coming from the direction of the pulley! My heart skipped a beat.

Thankfully, it turned out that the oil was only leaking from the faulty hose. Whew! The engine is still sealed and would run if it got enough air. The hose is supposed to arrive today...

Best regards,
Uwe

Audi!!!!

Incorrect part delivered despite a clear description provided during the order process.

I finally want to get my car back...

Best regards,
Uwe

VW isn't any better either...

They know, despite having access to AKTE and FGst. 'Number: Doesn't specify which parts they installed in their cars...'

expand -> check/look into...

CU Gremlin.

I recently had a similar problem.
I thought it was pretty cool at first. But over time, it became louder and louder.
The cause turned out to be a faulty exhaust pipe (this part of the exhaust system located after the turbocharger).
Replaced with a catless downpipe from Supersprint.
What should I say it really pushes hard, with chip and without back pressure.

I also had problems with my turbo.
After complaining four times, my friendly mechanic finally listened.
and had the part replaced under warranty ).

I think we need to differentiate based on the sound.
1. Normal turbo whistling sound, as soon as the turbo reaches its operating speed.
'The turbos all sound quite similar, regardless of whether they are variable geometry turbos or not.'
or 2.
'Other' sounds, such as scraping, fluttering, or rattling... (great for describing).
during the initial setup of VTG (Variable Transmission Gear) systems or during load changes at approximately 2500 RPM.

I had issues with the VTG (vehicle traction control) from the beginning, and it wasn't delivering any power.
(and LMM and pressure hose and.........)
After they had gotten the VTG (likely referring to a piece of machinery) running somewhat smoothly, the noises started.
It sounded really unhealthy, especially under load.

They tried to tell me that it was normal, and I have something here that proves it.
and in the other, more well-known but rather superficial forum.
But it surely can't be right that I have to wait for so long, until after the warranty period.
and then I would have to pay for the loader, and possibly much more myself.

My starting point was: Grant due to... Charging noises and intermittent lack of power.
I always complained in writing, and I think they were probably tired of my nagging.
However, there were also other issues; Wagen had to visit them seven times, which is not ideal!
But I'm really annoyed with my friend right now! Now it's running.

The turbocharger is proving to be a real never-ending story!

Yesterday, while driving on the highway about 300 km away, the car suddenly lost power. After pressing the accelerator again, everything seemed fine, but only for a few kilometers. Just a short time later, frustrating encounters with the trucks began, accompanied by dramatic-sounding engine noises...

Lacking my own experience with emergency mode, I initially suspected an engine failure, which, however, turned out to be a rough-running emergency mode that started when I turned the ignition on and off.

I then had to drive the remaining 250 km in emergency mode, as the engine barely ran stably in normal mode. After each movement of the accelerator pedal, the emergency program would reactivate.

I haven't checked what the issue was yet, because the car ran perfectly fine again the next day under all conditions. However, the only possible diagnosis remains: the VTG adjustment, as the problem always occurred when the gas pedal was released or pressed again. I have an auxiliary charger installed, probably with an old pressure vessel.

I will keep you updated. Could it be that this kind of error can fix itself?

Best regards, frustrated Uwe

Hello Uwe,

"Nothing should be wildly loose or unstable there..." Hopefully, the fuel injection system won't give me any trouble now.

Best regards, Rainer.

Yes. It performed terribly under partial load, but after a reset, the engine ran perfectly. Then, 1 kilometer later, no gas again and the emergency mode is back on...

There isn't just "the" emergency mode; instead, for each missing or implausible parameter, there's a separate emergency program with default values.

Okay, I'm not sure what caused it yet, but I'll figure it out today. Whether the engine is allowed to "knock" is beyond my knowledge, but it certainly surprised me. There were two states: the initial state, where the engine control unit reduced and then restored power, and the final emergency mode, which could only be ended by a reset. The nailing only occurred in emergency mode.

Let's see, I'll have the error memory read out later. Then I'll know more.

Best regards,
Uwe

Hi,

I don't know if this will help, but this horrible noise is coming from the emergency brake.
I also experienced a similar issue very early on, and in my case, water had gotten into the control unit.
'The device is running, but the seal on the side where the plugs go in isn't 100% waterproof.'
(firmware) - dried, cleaned, and tested... however, it required a significant amount of diagnostic effort.
cost!

Best regards, wolf

I just need to turn the key, and then the hammering sound will stop for me.
I think there are other causes at play here.

I didn't find any time today to read the error codes. At least it's running perfectly fine right now.

Best regards,
Uwe