12mm PumpenKolben und größere Einspritzdüsen | Posts 16+

Hi

'It makes more sense to put a can of rancid butter in the trunk than to do such a modification.'
Even with 10mm pump pistons and corresponding injection valves, you're reaching the limits of the engine's performance.
Without reducing the compression ratio, such a conversion will be a botched job and won't bring lasting satisfaction.

Greetings, Rainer



hi,

As I said, I can't comment on that because I don't know anyone who has done something like that.
I've only read a lot about it, and some people claim it's possible, while others say it's not, or at least suspect that it's not.

Regards,
DJ.

Hi DJ,

I somehow have the feeling that you're trying to approach the problem from the wrong angle.
to saddle up...

I always try to have a clear goal, which, by the way, is something I miss in your approach.
auf möglichst einfache, kostengünstige, o.ä. WeTo reach ise.
The KISS principle stands for: Keep It Simple and Stupid.

Let me ponder for a moment...
Probably, you want to squeeze more performance out of the AFN...
In the standard version, it has 110 horsepower.
"How much more" is now the question.
Perhaps also: What a fantastic experience! / What an amazing time! / What a great feeling!

Knowing this, one can devise a suitable method.
Perhaps a larger pump piston and larger nozzles should also be included.
Maybe, but maybe not.

Okay, now it's your turn .

Hi Pit from DO,

My AFN engine currently has approximately 160 horsepower and 350 Nm of torque.

I think there's still a bit more performance to be gained, as I'm only running at 1.2 bar.
I'm not entirely sure what you're trying to get at.

I know people (whom I've only met online) who have over 200 horsepower in their AFN vehicles.
Equipped with original connecting rods and pistons.
See, for example, prof-turbo.

Regards,
DJ.

PS: Of course, the material is damaged, I already know that .

Why don't you just ask Prof-Turbo how many kilometers his steam locomotive (see the picture on the video page) has already run?

Hi,


I've already spoken to him, his car still exists, and it's still running .
He's just acting mysterious and not really revealing the data.
Well, it's possible that it has 200 horsepower, but I don't believe it has 246 horsepower.

Regards,
DJ.

Quote:

300 kpa MAP sensor, of course, the engine control unit must be adjusted to these modifications.

I'm currently running at 2.1 bar.

} Now, the question is: what is the maximum absolute pressure that can be measured with a 300kPa sensor?

Emmm....

No idea, do you even know kpa?


Regards,
DJ.

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Druck_(Physik)

By the way, what is referred to as "normal pressure" is actually 1013.25 hectopascals (hPa), which is equal to 1013.25 millibars (mbar).

Hello,
1013 hPa = 101.3 kPa, 300 kPa = 3 bar, which should indicate a measurement range up to 2 bar of overpressure. This seems contradictory to a boost pressure of 2.1 bar.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"
harald

Harald won .

The standard behavior and the chip, which has been 'adjusted' to 2.1 bar, would certainly be beneficial for further abdominal muscle relaxation.

Thank you, Harald, now I understand .

Hmmm, well, I don't think the stated performance is accurate, to be honest...
No problem .

I still want to try 12mm feed screws .


*hihi*

Regards,
DJ.

Since we're on the topic, is there a guide or description available that explains how to perform a piston replacement?
Is it possibly possible to perform such a conversion even with the ESP system still installed?
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hello"
harald

Since we're on the subject, is there a description available somewhere of how to perform a piston replacement?
Is it possibly possible to perform such a conversion even with the ESP system still installed?
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Hello'
harald

A piston replacement can be summarized as follows:

1. Oil pan off.

2. Cylinder head removed.

3. Remove each connecting rod one by one from the crankshaft and, as you do so, push the corresponding piston upwards and out.

4. Clean the cylinder and crankshaft using a leather-lined cleaning tool.

5. Install new pistons with rings.

6. Coat the new pistons, cylinders, and connecting rod bearings with plenty of oil.

7. Insert the piston.

8. Tighten connecting rods according to specifications.

9. Do the rest the same way, then reassemble everything.

10. Before starting the engine for the first time, disable the ESP system and let the engine run for a while until oil pressure is established throughout.

11. Start the engine and have a good trip.

That was the crash course on how to replace pistons... please don't tell me what's missing now, I already know.

Hello,

"The 0.260mm nozzles were originally installed in the UR-TDI. However, at that time, the holes were drilled with a drill bit and were therefore not rounded by water erosion. Several companies supposedly rectified this later. With my magnifying glass and my eyesight, I couldn't detect any difference. So, believe it or not."

The first thing that always caused me problems was my cylinder head bolts (ARL), which naturally led to a blown head gasket. If you don't notice it right away, you'll have some coolant loss . Then, you can end up scratching your piston rings on the cylinder walls.

Ulf once mentioned that it might be because I was pushing the engine with early injection timing (4°), slightly more than 60mg/injection, intake manifold pressures of approximately 1.55 bar, and around 1.3 bar at 4750 RPM. The engine ran up to 5330 RPM without any issues (with about 1 bar of boost), and everything held up except for the head bolts. With the new engine, I'll try using head studs this time. Maybe that will improve things. (Using the long 5th gear of the 1Z transmission).

Before I even consider getting a 12mm fuel pump, I would focus on finding a decent turbocharger. Even the VNT20 or GT2052V mentioned here are simply too small for that level of power.

Why isn't anyone putting these high-performance vehicles through the Ulf test?

Greetings,
Thomas.

@ Thomas:

Does your statement refer to the original ZK screws of the 1Z/AFN engine, or to the stronger screws from the PD engine?

"Surely, PD-ZK screws won't fit into a VP motor without modification, right? I think the screws would be too long because the PD head has a larger height."

Explain it to us!

How about the head gasket? Did you at least use the thickest available gasket to reduce the compression a bit?

Regards,
Alex.

Hello Alex,

All cylinder head bolts for TDI engines, with the exception of the ARL and BPX models, are all 10.9 grade bolts. This can be determined even when the bolts are installed. The ARL and BPX engines use 12.9 grade cylinder head bolts.

These were obviously much too long. That's why I shortened them and re-cut the threads at the cutting point.

I temporarily used a 3-hole gasket, but then replaced it with a 2-hole gasket because I had one on hand in the basement, as the 3-hole one started to leak. Also, the compaction doesn't decrease significantly.

Best regards,
Thomas.