Re: Which reference? | Posts 160+

ulf wrote:

By what "reference" do you define "too late"? The only valid reference here is the "specified Start" in field ?? of group 4. Wenn demgegenüber der actual start ständig in die gleiche Richtung abweicht, sollte eigentlich das Tastverhätnis ziemlich an einem Anschlag liegen.

Hi Ulf,

Okay, then everything seems to be perfectly configured: Field 2 (specified) and Field 3 (actual) match exactly with no deviation!!! What is the meaning of the values displayed below each field?

ulf wrote:

But why could anything be missing there, the pump is set up correctly!! Unexplainable... so first, the engine control unit will be replaced, then the turbocharger, then the knock sensor, and finally the mass airflow sensor... ... then the fuel filter ... ... then the clutch ... ... then the spare tire ... ...and then again, the engine computer... Yes, that's how workshops operate. (of course only in bad movies... )

You little rascal ...

Today, I laughed again at the "Friendly" store when I bought the temperature sensor. I told one of the mechanics from the workshop about my problems and had the feeling that I knew more than he did . It came across that way: "Replace the pump... blah blah..." "The temperature sensor is excluded from returns... blah blah." Then, I told the spare parts salesperson about my problems, and he said:
"Damn TDI... the electronics are always messing up."

Best regards, Christian.

Hi Christian!

In welche Werkstatt gehst Du denn? Approximately the same price?

Best regards,
Uwe

Uwe wrote:

Send

.

Hi Uwe,

Is that the VW dealer in Bad Schwalbach? I go to Rossel in Wiesbaden because they have everything. If you need Bosch parts (injectors, pumps, etc.) and original parts like timing belts, tensioners, brakes, bushings, etc., then definitely go to Bremsenteile Boller & Co. in Wiesbaden (0611-422031). They almost have everything (except electrical sensors, etc.) and are incredibly cheap!

Best regards, Christian.

Hi!

"Bingo, Schick is located in Bad Schwalbach! Mr. Dose works there as a salesperson (www.team-dose.de), and he's a very successful racing driver with a Golf TDI and an A3 TDI. However, he has his own workshop team; the guys at Schick don't handle that. Nevertheless, they are knowledgeable about the subject matter. The workshop is often quite good, very accommodating, and sometimes (not always!) they have good ideas for troubleshooting."
Unfortunately, there has been a change in personnel! The most skilled master craftsman was poached by the competition. Since then, I haven't completely trusted that shop anymore, as they lost valuable expertise with that change.
Beim Rossel bin ich vor ca. 7 Jahren ganz gewaltig aufgelaufen. Ich habe einen Fehler (Leistungsverlust, -50 Km/h, Benziner) moniert, O-Ton des Kundendienstleiters: Läuft doch bestens! Nach mehreren teuren und erfolglosen Reparaturversuchen bei Rossel, einer Woche Leihwagen und anschließenden Zoff mit dem Chef persönlich bin ich nach Frankfurt und hab dort das Ladedruckregelventil für 50,- DM tauschen lassen. SeiBy then, I was no longer there...
I'm not entirely sure where I should go. It rarely happens that I need to visit the doctor.
Here in this forum, you can find solutions to (almost) all your problems.

Best regards,
Uwe

Uwe wrote:

I don't exactly know where I should go. It rarely happens that I have to visit the doctor. Hier im Forum bekommst Du (fast) alle Probleme gelöst.

Hi Uwe,

The fleet of vehicles belonging to my parents, friends, and me has never had to go to the "Friendly" [likely referring to a specific car repair shop] thanks to me... therefore, I can't give you any advice! I would rather lie on the street in the rain for days until night than go to any workshop . Except for one wheel alignment, everything has always worked out.

And that wheel alignment I had done a few years ago almost caused me serious trouble.

The mechanic hadn't used any new self-locking nuts. When I pointed this out, he just shrugged and said, "You won't find a workshop that will replace these nuts".......until almost on the highway, the axle joints of the steering knuckle were about to come loose .....you can imagine how it was driving home at night and having to tighten the nuts by hand every 10 kilometers without any tools.

Since then, I no longer trust any workshops. Given the time pressure and price competition, I can't imagine that delicate screws/nuts are being replaced and tightened with the specified torque .

Best regards, Christian.

Okay:

I've now adjusted the quantity control valve and set it to approximately 4.4 mg/stroke. It wasn't a problem at all thanks to ULF's instructions . However, one thing isn't working for me: In channel 5 in VAG-COM, I can't increase the injection amount (the pump was initially too lean -> 6.0), or even though I could increase the value, nothing changed . The increase in injection amount only worked for me using channel 1, which is actually supposed to be used for reduction . What did I probably adjust incorrectly?

I replaced the temperature sensor at the same time, and starting the engine when it was just warm to the touch was still as bad as always .

I've checked the start of injection again: cylinder 2: 40 degrees, cylinder 9: 110 degrees. So, the point on the diagram is indeed quite a bit below the center line, but still within the tolerance range (hopefully it's not that darned KW wheel!). It seems like the forum members who kindly asked me via private message to advance the timing are probably right... then I will finally understand that sentence in the repair manuals:
"In addition to the static initial support setting, the initial support must be dynamically checked and adjusted."

Okay, we've checked everything on my 1Z... so it must be that one thing causing the problem!

Best regards, Christian.

haehnlein wrote:

In Kanal 5 bei VAG-COM kann ich die Einspritzmenge nicht erhöhen (Pumpe war erst etwas zu mager->6,0) bzw. den Wert konnte ich erhöhen, aber verändert hat sich nichts Die Erhöhung der Einspritzmenge ist mir entgegen dem Fachartikel nur mit Kanal 1 gelungen, der eigentlich für die Reduktion da sein soll Was habe ich dann wohl verstellt?

Hi Christian,

Channel 5 is just the initial amount, so that's what is injected during the organ start-up process to ensure it starts up properly.
If you lower the value too much, it will start more poorly.

As soon as the engine is running, channel 5 has no further effect.

ulf wrote:

Channel 5 is just the initial amount, which is the substance injected during the organ's start-up to ensure it starts properly. If you lower the value too much, it will start more poorly. Sobald der Motor läuft, hat Kanal 5 keine Auswirkungen mehr.

Hi Ulf,

aaaaaah, then I misunderstood . Probably, I have now increased the initial amount. The start of the boost is scheduled for this weekend! Due to the quantity adjustment, quite a bit of power is lost in the lower RPM range.... It was already unusual to drive 30 km/h in third gear without accelerating with a cold engine, and I've never done it hastily while driving a car.

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,

Quote:

Durch die Mengenstellwerkverschiebung geht ganz schön Dampf im unteren Drehzahlbereich verloren...

It sounds like you've adjusted the fuel mixture to be even leaner. That will likely make it even harder to start.
Okay, without messing with the adaptation channels, what was the change in idle fuel volume with a warm engine? Did I understand correctly that it was 6 mg/stroke before and 4.8 mg/stroke after (which would be correct, but then the car would run "better")?

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi,

It was already unusual to drive at 30 km/h in third gear without accelerating with a cold engine, and I have never done it hastily while driving a car.



Isn't that perfectly normal, I think?
My old car (as far as my memory serves me) was also quite fast.
The reason it doesn't move forward, even uphill, is because the starter motor (STG) is providing excessive power. You can start moving on a ramp in a parking garage while stationary, using only the clutch and without giving any gas.
After the transmission change, it actually runs at almost 50 km/h in 5th gear, even at idle speed.

Rainer K. wrote:

It sounds like you've adjusted the fuel pump to be even leaner. That will hardly make it start any better... Okay, without messing with the adaptation channels, what was the change in idle volume with a warm engine? Did I understand correctly that it was 6 mg/stroke before and 4.8 mg/stroke afterwards (which would be correct, but then the car would run 'better')

Hi Rainer,

Okay (assuming a warm engine and no electrical loads).

"Before the adjustment, I had a setting of 1.9 mg/stroke. After the first attempt with a value of 7.9, it didn't even reach 2000 rpm; after the second attempt, it was around six, and then I tried unsuccessfully using channel 5; after the third attempt, it was around 4.9. Then I reduced it to 4.4 using channel 1 (which was already at its lowest setting), and I haven't ridden since."

"I mainly notice the difference between 1.9 and 4.9 because I shift gears very early, but the performance is now roughly comparable to my father's 1Z engine."

Best regards, Christian.

Markus H. wrote:

Das ist aber doch normal, meine ich?!

Hi Markus,

In certain areas, yes. I only compared it subjectively to my father's car, and his car didn't accelerate like an ox from 20 km/h to 30 km/h when shifting into 3rd gear . With 1.9 mg/R, it definitely had plenty of power between 1000-1800 rpm!

Best regards, Christian.

Hello Christian,

Quote:

Before the adjustment, I had 1.9 mg per injection.

After the first attempt (7.9), it didn't even reach 2000 rpm.
Yes, it was actually the other way around .
1.9 mg/stroke is fine; you shouldn't have adjusted it. If you set the pump to deliver more fuel (the idle value becomes smaller than 1.9 mg/stroke), it can cause the known jerking or unstable idle.
Do not forget: the displayed value is not the actual injection amount, but the amount that the control unit believes is necessary to maintain the idle speed.
The lower the displayed value, the higher the actual fuel injection amounts during driving and engine start-up. The actual fuel injection amount at idle remains unaffected by these actions; it stays constant as long as the surrounding conditions (e.g., climate control, rear window heating) remain the same.
If I were you, I would enter the normal value of '32768' again in Channel 1 and adjust the actuator back to a range of 1.6-1.9 mg per step.
Then}, you can experiment with channel 5 and adjust the ESP. First, I would slightly rotate the pump to a more "early" setting and monitor the results.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

1,9mg/Hub sind i.O., da hättest Du nichts dran drehen müssen, denn stellst Du die Pumpe fetter ein (Leerlaufwert wird kleiner 1,9mg/Hub), kann es zum bekannten Ruckeln/unruhigen Leerlauf kommen.

Hi Rainer,

Now I really don't understand anything anymore... the pump was too rich, so I brought it into the normal range (2.2-9 according to Erwin: now 4.4) Ulf also recommended this further up .

Best regards, Christian.

Hmm.

However, if it was set too rich, you would likely experience a rough idle but no starting problems.
If you're experiencing starting problems, it might help to adjust the fuel mixture to be richer.

What's the problem then, is it starting or an unstable idle?

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

What's the problem then, is it starting or an unstable idle?

After 175 posts, still not clear???

-- Lost overview!! The starting process ends with a huge cloud of smoke after struggling to start... as far as I remember...