Hilfe: Motorschaden (Öldruckkontrollleuchte)? | Posts 24+

Quote:

After a short drive, the light came on again and the engine showed a loss of power.

The miles you drove afterward were the most expensive. The loss of power indicates a faulty charger.
Please thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearings and it's best to replace them directly, including the screws. They don't cost much. The tightening torque was (I believe) 30 Nm + 90 degrees. Please make sure that the sputtered shells are facing upwards (according to the part number for original parts, or "Sputter" is printed on the upper shell for parts from aftermarket suppliers like KS or Glyco).

vwSchrauber wrote:

Quote: After a short drive, the light came on again, and the engine showed a loss of power. The remaining miles you drove were the most expensive. The loss of power indicates a faulty charger. Make sure to check the connecting rod bearings; it's best to replace them directly, including the screws. They don't cost much, and the tightening torque was (I believe) 30Nm + 90°. Please make absolutely sure that the sputtered shells are facing upwards (according to the part number for original parts; for parts from the aftermarket like KS or Glyco, the word "Sputter" will be printed on the upper shell).

Hi,

Thank you for your feedback and suggestions.
I'll probably do it that way.

"It's a pain with the turbo... I was hoping that maybe the loss of power was due to the emergency mode."

Well, I'll see what I can do...

What other problem existed alongside the broken chain that caused the car to switch to emergency mode?

Do you really believe it did that because it knew the oil pump was failing? Try searching and finding articles about dynamic oil pressure control specifically, and oil pressure control in general...

To anyone who might read this someday: If the warning light actually comes on while driving, it is recommended to immediately turn off the engine (even if it may already be too late). If there is no sign of low oil when checking the oil level, the engine should not be started without simultaneously measuring the oil pressure.

Here are some recent photos for those who are interested.

"So, the gear in the middle of image 2230 also looks very worn. But you would probably need to replace it anyway because of the missing tooth. Did you notice that the bracket for the hydraulic chain tensioner (2230, top right) is broken?"
haithamina

And here are a few more photos of the connecting rod bearing shells/crankshaft journals.

Hi!

A glove-wearing mechanic .

And what do you intend to do now?
Do you want to get the engine fixed?

Steffen G wrote:

Hi! A glove-wearing mechanic . And what do you intend to do now? Do you want to get the engine fixed?

Sure!
New connecting rod bearings, new tensioner and chain as well, and then maybe the turbo.

haithamina wrote:

So, the gear in the middle of image 2230 also looks very worn. But you would probably have to replace it anyway because of the missing tooth. Did you notice that the bracket for the hydraulic chain tensioner (2230, top right) is broken? haithamina

Hi!

Yes, I've already taken care of everything. Everything will be replaced!
Thank you for the information, and I'm sorry for the late reply!

Hello!

I hope you remember that I mentioned before that the oil pressure might be too high, especially considering how the chain tensioner looks.

I'm mentioning this only because there were similar issues with the VR6 engines in the past. Of course, those involved chains of a completely different scale; they didn't break.
However, in that process, the clamping rails can get worn down, and the resulting shavings could potentially clog the oil pump's intake screen, which would be the worst-case scenario.

Steffen G wrote:

Hello! I hope you remember that I mentioned before that perhaps excessive oil pressure could be the cause, especially considering how the chain tensioner looks. I'm mentioning this only because there were similar issues with VR6 engines in the past. Of course, those involved chains of a completely different magnitude; they didn't break. But in that case, the clamping rails were worn away, and the resulting shavings could, in the worst-case scenario, clog the oil pump's intake screen.

Hi Steffen,

I still have your comment in mind.
I'm hoping, however, that it's not a problem with the oil pump.
Considering the mileage (380,000 km), wouldn't some degree of wear on the tension rail be considered normal?
I'll replace the air filter screen at the same time, as I damaged the "Schwalbdingens" (presumably a specific part) while removing it.

Hello!

The mileage is extremely high, which means anything could potentially happen with the engine.

In my opinion, the overhead conductor rail looks like something terrible happened there in a short period of time.
Because it looks so corroded, a normal, even wear pattern looks different in my opinion.

But if you keep that in mind, regarding the oil pressure, I think we've done everything possible for you here.
And waiting for a success message .

Do you have any tips on how to install the crankshaft oil seal without damaging it?
Unfortunately, the board has a dent. Would it be enough to cover it with tape?

Edit: I'll see if I can still get a shaft seal including the installation sleeve!

Viktor Reinz products usually include a sleeve.

chli1976 wrote:

With Viktor Reinz products, a sleeve is usually included

.

Great, thanks for the tip!