1,9 Tdi läuft nach Komplettüberholung nicht richtig | Posts 32+

Oh, the master .

Okay, then that's clarified.

but why does the tractor then need 15 seconds to process 2000-4000 items???

And that figure of supposedly 51 mg – which should translate to about 130 horsepower...

As Roger already mentioned, I would first make sure that the tractor achieves its target time of 8-9 seconds using standard parts and that all the values are within the acceptable range.

Then you can start thinking about tuning.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Okay, and thanks again. I'll run a log with the stock software. I only installed the chipped version temporarily to see if the charger could potentially produce more than the 1.5 bar it was showing with the incorrectly connected hoses. Back then, I didn't realize that the hoses were actually misconnected.

" color="red">Bitte keine Links zu externen Dateihostern! a) nerven die zusätzlich notwendigen Klicks, b) Wartezeit, Werbebanner/Werbepopups und notwendige Registrierungen, c) ist nach einiger Zeit die Datei weg und das Thema für andere Leser nutzlos!

Bitte nutze 'Attachment hinzufügen' bzw. das Upload Forum hier.

How many mg/hour does the pump need to deliver in order to keep the engine running at idle?

If the logged value here is already 9 mg, then either the pump calibration is incorrect or the pump itself is misadjusted.

Because if the engine is already consuming 9 liters of fuel at idle, it's clear that you won't get very far with 35 liters in the tank.

My 1Z engine needs 1.4 mg/H for idle speed. (I hope that's the value without the control unit/box).

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

You are absolutely right. The idle setting should be 2.x mg/hub, and the pump voltage should be 1.3 volts. And since I'm currently running the factory software, it's likely that the metering unit on the pump is misconfigured.

Bosch says to test the pump and adjust the flow meter until it reads 1.3 volts at idle. I'm just saying, those Polish guys at that repair shop probably cut corners again...

But I'll pass that information on to my acquaintance, and if he can't resolve the issue in Germany, he'll definitely make sure they hear about it.

He's also at 180 because of them...

Hello,

Just wanted to check in and see what's happened with the clicking sounds.
I once had a similar problem, but it was on a PD (presumably referring to a specific engine component). The upper bearing shell, also known as the trapezoidal connecting rod, was worn out. The idle speed was normal, but there was a noticeable clacking sound when accelerating (starting around 2000 RPM).

@SD14
The pistons can be installed incorrectly! The valve recesses for cylinders 1 and 2 are mirrored and machined into cylinders 3 and 4.

Regards

Valve pockets???

Is this about the TDI?

Oh yes, actually:

Gremlin wrote:

Hello, Just wanted to check in and see what's happened with the clicking sounds. I once had a similar problem, but it was on a PD (presumably referring to a specific type of engine or component). The upper bearing shell, also known as the trapezoidal connecting rod, was worn out. The idle speed was normal, but there was a noticeable clacking sound when increasing the throttle (starting around 2000 RPM).

That was also what we initially suspected. Subsequently, the cylinder head was removed a second time, and the clearance in the upper bearing shells of the connecting rods was tested. The bearing for the piston that was replaced was also changed... but without any result.

Hmm, what can you say about that...?

Very ominous...

If we exclude the valve mechanism as the cause – for example, a missing or forgotten second valve spring, or perhaps excessive piston protrusion – could a "piston rocking" sound be caused by, say, a broken piston ring (during installation)?

Regards

I can't comment on the valve springs. If there's a way to test them, please let me know how. I find it unlikely that there's an issue with the piston rings, because that would indicate compression loss... but the engine is running great otherwise.

Well,

You can only check this with the camshaft removed, using appropriate workshop tools similar to those used for valve removal. In such a case, if a valve spring is broken, the force required to depress it would be significantly lower.

Regarding the piston ring:
The piston has two compression rings and one oil scraper ring. If a ring is defective, it doesn't necessarily have to affect the compression directly. However, it will compromise the piston's guidance within the cylinder.

--Bewilderment--

Best regards,

Hi, I was wondering where you had the engine overhaul done... it sounded like you might have had it done in Poland?
I live right on the border and I'd also like to know how much you paid and where you had it done!
Best regards, Björn.

Dear particulate matter enthusiasts:

"Today, after a long search, I finally fixed the problem with the lack of power. It turned out to be the fuel injectors. Even though they had been refurbished or something like that, since I installed new AFN injectors, the car is running great again."

I would like to thank everyone who put their minds to work on this problem!

Unfortunately, the clicking sound is still present. All 8 hydraulic lifters have now been replaced, and as I mentioned before, the injectors are new. I'm now suspecting a bearing in the idler pulley, but I'm not entirely sure about that either.

Here are the symptoms again:

Occasionally, there are more or less loud clicking noises, seemingly originating from the front right side of the engine. The noise is not present at idle, but can be heard starting around 2000 rpm and continuing up to over 4000 rpm. It also occurs during coasting.

I will not rest until I find it!

Quote:

The clicking sound is unfortunately still there. Meanwhile, all 8 hydraulic lifters have been replaced, and as I said, the injectors are new. In the meantime, I suspect a bearing on the idler pulley, but I'm not entirely sure about that either. Here are the symptoms again: Occasionally, there are louder or quieter clicking noises, which seem to be localized towards the front right side of the engine. The noise does not occur at the beginning when idling, but can be heard from around 2000 rpm up to over 4000 rpm. It also occurs during coasting.

Hmm, it still sounds like a valve based on the tone and frequency, but I'm not going to say for sure.
It could also be coming from the engine block, specifically when the relevant cylinder completes its combustion cycle. This would explain the halved frequency compared to the engine's rotational speed.

In such cases, I would first systematically disable each cylinder one by one to pinpoint the source of the noise.

BM wrote:

Hmm, it still sounds like a valve based on the tone and frequency, but I'm not going to jump to conclusions. It could also be coming from the engine block, specifically when the relevant cylinder completes its combustion cycle. This would explain the halved frequency compared to the engine's rotational speed. With such assumptions, I would first systematically disable each cylinder one by one to pinpoint the source of the noise.

How can I disable the cylinders?

Quote:

How can you disable the cylinders?

I thought you would know that.

Look here: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=12582&highlight=

BM wrote:

Quote: How can you disable the cylinders? I thought you would know that. Look here: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=12582&highlight=

Thank you for the tip. I had heard before that it can be turned off like that, but I wasn't sure anymore.

Okay, here's the translation:

"What exactly happens then? If I disconnect the fuel line, how does the pump know that it shouldn't be pumping anything into the line anymore?"