Leistung bricht bei 3800U/min ein Motor: ARL | Posts 32+

Hello bastion,

I can completely rule out the tires; those are the rims and tires from my previous Golf (195 standard tire size, with 0.2 bar more air pressure than required).

How can I adjust the injection timing by 2 degrees too early?

I have just reviewed the target data for the measurement blocks ([url][/url] :
Should I obtain the MKB data from the ASZ (since my ARL is not listed) and then check in field 4 of the MWB 4 form whether these values are within the tolerance range?

If the performance is available without the catalytic converter, then I can't always drive without a catalytic converter in the future, can I?

Or do you mean that we can assume the catalytic converter is the 100% cause of the problem (although I couldn't detect any rattling or similar noises when I vigorously shook the catalytic converter)?

Best regards,

Mark.http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Solldaten_4_Zylinder_PD.html{MARKER})

No, you can't assume the catalytic converter is the sole source of the problem. It's just one possibility. Perhaps it's simply clogged or blocked for some other reason. It's also possible that the flaps in the exhaust system are blocked by dirt and insects, which could lead to excessive back pressure and ultimately a reduction in performance at high RPMs. It's also possible that a leak in one of your hoses only appears after a certain engine load. Have you measured the boost pressure above 3800 RPM, and does the lambda sensor actually reach its target values? It's possible that he's still within the required values in the LL (where workshops usually measure), but as soon as the air mass increases, the values start to fall below the target. Try replacing the MAF sensor with a diode and retest the airflow. If that works, you've found the culprit. You can find suitable diodes using the search function.

However, if all the values are within the target range, the KW/NW position is correct, and the situation doesn't change even without the catalytic converter, then your car likely simply can't achieve better performance.

"The target values you should use should be provided by those with more experience in the field. I don't know which vehicle model codes (MKBs) have the same values as others." But actually, VAG-Com should display the target values to you.

hnsteyding wrote:

I have just reviewed the target data for the measurement blocks ([url][/url]: I would need to obtain the MKB data from the ASZ (since my ARL is not listed) and then check in field 4 of the MWB 4 form whether these values are within the tolerance range?

At the start of PD control, there are no tolerance ranges or adjustment loops because the PDE is only "activated" by the MSG.
The only way to change that is through chip tuning.http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Solldaten_4_Zylinder_PD.html{MARKER})

@Ulf

I already thought so.

@bastion

I've already had a few logs checked, and the specialists here haven't found anything suspicious regarding the LLT or LMM (which were also replaced about 5000 km ago). LLK is also clean.

Well, I guess I'll have to try the diode trick and examine the CAT more closely.

I suspect, however, that I probably got a "weak" ARL motor .

Thank you all very much, nonetheless!

Best regards,

Mark.

Hello specialists!

I've now inspected the catalytic converter, and I didn't find anything (no rattling or clanging when I vigorously shook and tapped it; neither when the catalytic converter was hot nor cold).

I will perform the diode test within the next two weeks and report back with the results.

I then went back into the MSG using VAG-COM and read out measurement block 13:

http://www.mark-steyding.homepage.t-online.de/mwb13.JPG

I've noticed that the value for cylinder 4 is "quite" different; is that normal?
Perhaps that's the problem.

Best regards,

Mark.

hnsteyding wrote:

I then went back into the MSG using VAG-COM and read out measurement block 13:

I've noticed that the value for cylinder 4 is "quite" different; is that normal?
Maybe that's the problem ????http://www.mark-steyding.homepage.t-online.de/mwb13.JPG
I doubt that, considering a tolerance range of 2.8.

You could only say anything more precise if you logged MWB 13 along with at least one other parameter using rpm during the "performance drop," meaning while running at full throttle up to at least 4000 rpm. Okay, here's the translation:

"For example, 001, 010, and 013 would be good."

Could it possibly be due to misadjusted valve clearances or a worn camshaft?
If the pre-tension of the pneumatic cylinder (PDE) is no longer correct, this could lead to a loss of power. Additionally, the cams that drive the rocker arms may be worn, which could prevent the PDE from being fully depressed. Also, any leaks in the O-rings or heat shields should be checked.
Regarding the poor performance of the ARL engine, I've also encountered this issue (especially in older model years). Furthermore, I find that the software in the Seat Leons tends to be more aggressive in its approach. I now have the latest software version, and it's a world of difference.

@Ulf

Okay, I've now logged the MWB entries 01, 10, and 13.

Quote:

Does it look normal, or what? @Zak1976 Should misaligned pressure drop elements (PDEs) not also become "visible" (according to MWB 13) in the idle/standby control, where one cylinder is outside of the tolerance range? If so, please refer to the log file above; if not: How can I determine this? I don't believe it's a worn camshaft: the car already had these problems with approximately 20,700 km on the odometer. Or could that happen even with such low mileage?

Regarding the poor performance of the ARL engine, I have also encountered this issue (especially with older model years). Furthermore, I find that, for example, the software in the Seat Leons is "more aggressive" in its approach. I now also have the latest software version, and it's a world of difference...

My last Golf was also a 2003 model, and it ran really well; it could keep up with a Golf IV R32 relatively well, especially when accelerating through all the gears up to speeds of 160-170 km/h.
Now I'm just happy that I can finally outrun a Golf Variant with a 130 TDI engine, even when it's going 180 km/h.

Do I need to have the PDE (presumably a component) removed to inspect leaking O-rings or the heat shield, or is there another way to do it?

Do you now have the software from the Leon for the MSG, or are you referring to a current software version for the Golf ARL?
I don't want to spend hundreds of euros just so some tuner messes up the standard settings!

@all

I will perform the diode test despite the new LMM (which has been installed for about 7000 km and hasn't made any difference), and I will report back with the results.

I have, however, given up hope for significant improvement .
My main priority is that he reaches his top speed again; acceleration is not quite as important.
It always sounds "relatively simple" in the various forum posts to find the error when the engine stops "pulling" above a certain RPM; it seems to be different in my case. http://www.mark-steyding.homepage.t-online.de/LOG-01-001-010-013.CSV

Best regards,

Mark.

Based on your logs, I cannot draw any conclusions about the performance loss. "In my opinion, all the values look good. The LMM values above 4000 RPM could be slightly better, but at that engine speed, the boost pressure is also reduced, which I think is acceptable."
Okay, if the valve timing is correct (check the timing belt/adjustment), then there might still be a restriction in the exhaust system, or a crack/leak on the turbo's exhaust side. Valve guides or stem seals could also be the cause, but in that case, you would likely see something in the exhaust gases (a bluish tint).
I would still not rule out a problem with the positive displacement element (PDE) if the filling is not good, the spray pattern is incorrect, or the O-rings are worn, as this could explain your loss of power. The amount of fuel injected is a calculated value and is not measured by the MSG, so it might be accurate.
I would suggest removing the valve cover, unscrewing the rocker arms (remember to replace the stretch bolts!!!), and taking out the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) for inspection. It's a good idea to replace the seals for safety (the cost would be around €70 if you do it yourself), just be careful not to twist the O-rings.
Nothing needs to be adjusted during installation (do not adjust the adjustment screw and lock nut on the rocker arm). If you find any scratches or wear marks on the spherical joint and its corresponding counterpart at the top of the PDE (Power Distribution Element), you need to replace both. However, after replacing them, the PDE will need to be readjusted using the adjustment screw (but that's not a major issue).

hnsteyding wrote:

Okay, I have now logged the MWB entries 01, 10, and 13.

It looks normal, or does it? http://www.mark-steyding.homepage.t-online.de/LOG-01-001-010-013.CSV
Yes, including the air mass. If the catalytic converter were clogged, the reading might be lower... but as it is, nothing in the logs suggests that. Unfortunately.

The cause is likely in the "unmonitored" hardware. Zak has already written quite a bit about this, and I'm just now remembering the pre-charge pressure of the tandem pump -> check it (or have it checked).

Just a heads-up for Ulf and Zak1976:

The tandem pump was re-sealed about a year ago because diesel was leaking from the back of the engine (the exhaust manifold side); however, I don't know if the pressure was also checked at that time.

The exhaust side and the turbo itself appear to be intact (no exhaust residue or anything like that). There is also no blue smoke.

@Zak1976

What kind of costs can I expect if I want to have the matter regarding the PDE (presumably referring to a specific document or process) reviewed?


Best regards,

Mark.

Hello everyone,
Measurement blocks are functioning correctly.
No leaks detected, and all parts are moving smoothly!
You're all looking for the "White Mice"! If you had your ARL (air intake restrictor) installed on the R32 back then, it wasn't a standard part. Please have your current ARL checked during a performance test to be sure.
If your car doesn't have 150 horsepower, contact VW and make them address the issue before you cause further damage!

Hello Nobi.k!

I had already suspected that.

Top speed of new cars, according to... Speedometer: 235 km/h - 3% (measured by ADAC) = 228 km/h actual speed. (probably very unusual; but it was a lot of fun ).

Current used cars - top speed according to [source/manufacturer]. Speedometer: just under 220 km/h - 7% (measured by ADAC) ≈ 204 km/h actual speed. (This can't be right; at that speed, I could have just bought an ASZ [presumably a sports car]!!!!)

I bought my last car brand new directly from a VW dealer and picked it up myself; so it definitely wasn't modified or anything like that. My current commercial vehicle is a used one and was sold as a VW factory vehicle (registered with VW for 8 months).

They should have done a performance measurement during the last annual review, but unfortunately, mine was stolen.

I will only perform the diode test and power measurement; if nothing comes out of those, I'll stop troubleshooting.
I somehow don't feel like looking for errors anymore, and I want my old ARL back!!

Thank you all very much, but I think my car is a lost cause.

Best regards,

Mark.

I have one more idea. Precise adjustment isn't always quick. My last car stopped working properly after a timing belt replacement. Specifically, it accelerated well, but it no longer reached its top speed. At the time, I checked everything, even replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Nothing helped. With 130,000 kilometers on the odometer, I reluctantly sold it and bought a used one (from VW AG, which I later learned was used for driver safety training) with only 23,000 kilometers. This car was in good condition. I didn't have the timing belt replaced at VW; I did it myself. This time, I checked the adjustment beforehand. Based on the flywheel, the crankshaft position sensor was about 6mm off. I adjusted the new one precisely, and sure enough, the maximum speed (V-max) disappeared. After that, I adjusted the ignition timing slightly to advance it, and the engine started running again.
However, the car now has 152,000 kilometers on the odometer, and unfortunately, it's starting to show its age.

Hello,

@Felix

I should try that too: I noticed earlier that there's a white marking about 3-4mm to the side of the TDC (Top Dead Center) mark that's stamped on the clutch disc, visible through the inspection hole in the clutch bell housing.
Perhaps I should use this as an out-of-topic marker.

@Ulf

What do you think about that?

@all

I've now run the diode test; the car bucked like a stubborn horse, stalled once, and emitted a lot of smoke during the starting phase.

On the highway, even with full throttle, it didn't smoke, and it also didn't have better acceleration; the maximum speed (VMax) was 210 km/h, and not even a little bit more under open road conditions .

After I released the accelerator pedal, it went into limp mode, and there were 2 errors in the engine control unit (ECU).
Boost pressure limit exceeded.
LMM implausible signal.

I suppose these errors are probably normal for this kind of operation.

I reviewed the MWB 3 again, and the following values were displayed, among others.
Target air mass: 250mg per injection.
Dose of active ingredient per actuation: 421.4 mg.

After briefly tapping the accelerator pedal, the actual air mass reading was 253 mg/stroke.

Is that normal?

Best regards,

Mark.

hnsteyding wrote:

I discovered earlier that, about 3-4mm next to the stamped "OT" marking on the clutch disc, there is a white marking visible through the clutch bell inspection hole. Perhaps I should use this as an out-of-topic marker. @Ulf What do you think about that?

Well, um...
I don't know what those color markings might mean.

However, it would probably only be worthwhile if the color is positioned in front of the OT notch, meaning you would set the NW to a "previous" setting than it is currently (see felix's answer).

Quote:

I have now performed the diode test; the car bucked like a stubborn horse, stalled once, and emitted a lot of smoke during the starting phase.

Logically, if the EGR valve isn't 100% defective...