OM 605.960 2,5 L 5 Zylinder Turbo 20 Ventiler marinesieren | Posts 32+

rodNeX wrote:

So, for example, the smallest water-cooled turbocharger would be the Garrett GT25. It's ball-bearing supported and water-cooled! So it's a pretty good piece of equipment. It's suitable for engines up to 250 horsepower. You might experience a slight turbo lag, but that's probably less noticeable in the water than on the road. Best regards, Rodion

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Could something like that work?
[Edit Admin: Link to K26 sales offer]
Sorry .

To add a little more information.

A water-cooled intercooler will not lower the temperature in the engine compartment.
It is only intended to protect the loader shaft from overheating.
"But that's not the risk with a diesel engine."
I would also advise against water-cooling the exhaust manifold, as it would reduce efficiency.
and would worsen the responsiveness.
I would use a heat-resistant insulating tape, like the kind used in motorsports.
You can also wrap the turbocharger with it. You can insulate the area around it with fiberglass wool.
I wouldn't use a thermostat set to 75 degrees either. 89 is already acceptable.

Of course, you can also charge your OM601.
In Finland, there are plenty of people who drive around in cars with extremely oversized mufflers.
The standard pump should be capable of producing around 120 horsepower.
For boat engines, the ALDA (automatic load dump) can be omitted.
According to a Finnish person who has done it before, the 2.3 Vito engine can potentially produce up to 200 horsepower with modifications.
When working with the OM601 engine, you need to remove the oil filter housing in order to adjust the ESP (Electronic Stability Program).
I won't offer an opinion on its durability.
However, if the cars can withstand 700,000 kilometers with their standard power output, they should be able to handle 100 horsepower for a while. And even if one breaks down, it's not the end of the world.
Too bad. Then I'll just put in the 250 Turbo instead.
What you would need to do is cut a pipe off of a 5-cylinder exhaust manifold and weld it back on. However, it needs to be done properly, otherwise it might break before you even reach Dubrovnik.
I still have a turbo manifold lying around at home.
However, in this case, the ARF also needs to be welded on.

However... It's not as simple as just screwing on a turbocharger and being done with it.
That's going to be a lot of work for you.
But it would be interesting to have an OM601 turbo.

By the way, the 602.962 has connections for the oil cooler on the oil filter housing and is controlled by a bimetallic thermostat. So there's no risk of the oil being too cold.

And a 60mm exhaust is ideal.
It should ideally not have any sharp corners.

Tagessuppe wrote:

A water-cooled intercooler will not lower the temperature in the engine compartment. It is only intended to protect the loader shaft from overheating. "But that's not the risk with a diesel engine." I would also advise against water-cooling the exhaust manifold, as it would reduce efficiency. and would worsen the responsiveness. I would use a heat-resistant insulating tape, like the kind used in motorsports. You can also wrap the turbocharger with it. You can insulate the area around it with fiberglass wool. I wouldn't use a thermostat set to 75 degrees either. 89 is already acceptable.

You don't have any airflow in the engine compartment of a boat that would create forced cooling. I don't know of any ship diesel engines that don't have water-cooled turbochargers and exhaust manifolds. You don't experience lag times in a boat like you do on land. The water resistance, anyway, causes a sluggish response. You can't compare a boat like that to a 500 kg flounder powered by 150 horsepower.
The 601 is too valuable to destroy; it needs to generate some revenue to offset the costs.
If you look at my page about the exhaust system, you'll see the standard 90-degree bends. Other radii are not possible.
Does the original turbocharger have one or two oil connections, and where does it receive its oil supply from?

Tagessuppe wrote:

I would use a heat-resistant insulating tape, like the kind used in motorsports. You can also wrap the turbocharger with it. You can insulate the area around it with fiberglass wool. I wouldn't use a thermostat set to 75 degrees either. 89 is already acceptable.

I've been thinking about it again.
I once saw a turbo at night that was almost glowing red.
The company that marinates the 250TD does it this way too.
The manifold and the turbo are insulated, but that's what makes it work.
For cost reasons. Customers want an inexpensive engine.
Since I'll be testing this internally after the renovation anyway...
Perhaps I could try it like this. Or maybe I'll mix in some "Krümmer Original."
and isolated, turbocharged, and oil-cooled with water cooling.
Are there turbochargers that only have one oil connection, meaning they are only lubricated through a single point?
If the turbocharger has excess oil flowing through it, that oil will also help to cool the turbocharger.
Or am I wrong?

Hello,
So, turbochargers are lubricated and minimally cooled by the oil.
They have an inlet and an outlet into the oil pan.
Best regards, Rodion.

Tagessuppe wrote:

A water-cooled intercooler will not lower the temperature in the engine compartment. It is only intended to protect the loader shaft from overheating. "But that's not the risk with a diesel engine." I would also advise against water-cooling the exhaust manifold, as it would reduce efficiency. and would worsen the responsiveness. I would use a heat-resistant insulating tape, like the kind used in motorsports. You can also wrap the turbocharger with it. You can insulate the area around it with fiberglass wool. I wouldn't use a thermostat set to 75 degrees either. 89 is already acceptable.

I've thought about it again and tried to understand it better. Why should that worsen the efficiency and responsiveness?
A turbocharger is actually a fairly simple component. It's a turbine that's driven by the exhaust gases.
For now, it doesn't really matter how hot the exhaust gases are.
On the other hand, I have the compressor housing, which is driven by the turbine.
And here too, I would like to compress cold air. The warming of the air through compression is rather undesirable.
Why should a water-cooled manifold negatively affect efficiency?
And with a water-cooled turbo, the compressed air is definitely cooler, and I can cool it even further by passing it through the intercooler.
I also believe that this results in a significantly lower temperature development in the engine compartment.
And if this actually leads to a slight decrease in efficiency, what order of magnitude are we talking about? Is it 1% or less, or more?

Tagessuppe wrote:

Possibly also the charge air temperature. Best regards,

What can be used as an intercooler temperature gauge, and what range should the reading fall within?

wolfgang b. wrote:

I've thought about it again and tried to understand it better. Why should that worsen the efficiency and responsiveness? A turbocharger is, at first glance, a relatively simple part.

Well, I was mainly referring to the cooling of the exhaust manifold.
If you cool the exhaust gases here, the volume decreases, and there is less drive energy available for the turbine wheel. On the other hand, a cooled turbo would have virtually no effect on the temperature of the intake air, as it flows through the turbocharger for too short a time.
To get a diesel turbocharger to glow red is, in my opinion, not possible with standard turbos. It must have been a turbocharged gasoline engine.

A charge air temperature gauge would likely range from 0 to 140 degrees Celsius, with well-cooled charge air typically staying below 70-80 degrees Celsius.
It's more of a novelty item and not strictly necessary.

Injection pump OM 602.962.
A friend told me that...
602 070 46 01 Mechanical transmission.
602 070 14 01 Automatic transmission.
Are there any other fuel injection pumps available for the 602.962 engine?

Hi,

Quote:

To get a diesel turbocharger to glow red-hot is, in my opinion, not possible with standard turbos. It must have been a turbocharged gasoline engine.

I think so too... see the attached picture. A "proud" Ibiza Cupra owner posted this on an Ibiza forum a few years ago... I don't remember the exact circumstances, but it was definitely a 1.8T in a 6K (probably with tuning), and the picture was probably taken after a long period of full-throttle driving on the highway. I just hope the engine was still running when he took the photo...

Best regards,

January.

Hi,


To get a diesel turbocharger to glow red-hot is, in my opinion, not possible with standard turbos. It must have been a turbocharged gasoline engine.


Denke ich auch... siehe das beigefuegte Bild. Jan.
Hello, why not?

Even with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), exhaust gas temperatures of 850°C can be maintained continuously.
A manifold that is 850°C hot will be glowing a deep red color.
Furthermore, it's important to remember that, as described above, the turbos in a car are cooled by the airflow during driving. This is not the case in a boat or on test benches.
'Here, glowing manifolds or turbos themselves are common, even with stock tuning, in engines producing 75 horsepower.'
Furthermore, continuous full load is the exception for cars, but not necessarily for boats, if I understand correctly.

Best regards, Jochen.

Jochen_145 wrote:

Jan6K wrote: Hi, Quote: To get a diesel turbocharger to glow red-hot is, in my opinion, not possible with standard turbos. It must have been a turbocharged gasoline engine. Denke ich auch... siehe das beigefuegte Bild. Jan . Hello, why not? Even with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), exhaust gas temperatures of 850°C can be maintained continuously. A manifold that is 850°C hot will be glowing a deep red color. Furthermore, it's important to remember that, as described above, the turbos in a car are cooled by the airflow during driving. This is not the case in a boat or on test benches. "Here, glowing manifolds or turbos themselves are common, even with stock tuning, in engines producing around 75 horsepower." Furthermore, continuous full load is the exception for cars, but not necessarily for boats, if I understand correctly. Best regards, Jochen

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That's why I think a water-cooled turbo is important, because even in a boat, you might experience periods of near full load for 2 or 3 hours.
What do you think, isn't a water-cooled manifold also better?

This weekend, I was near Ulm and bought an OM 605.960 engine.
It's an original Mercedes-Benz replacement engine that is supposed to be 2 years old and have covered 45,000 kilometers.
The label reads:
Part number: 605010060080.
Bm. 605960
Agg. No. 079848
Can the age of the machine be determined from the data?
Unfortunately, it also didn't include any accessories such as the alternator, starter motor, or exhaust manifold.

Okay, I'm looking for a starter motor, exhaust manifold, expansion tank, oil lines...

My repair manual states that the engine has an oil-water heat exchanger.
There are no connections on the oil filter housing as there are with the OM 602.982 engine. Instead, a rectangular box is located between the fuel injection pump and the oil filter housing. Can anyone tell me what the oil and coolant circulation looks like in this configuration?
The images related to this are located under the category OM 605 960 Conversion.

I've been trying to understand my engine by reading the repair manual for the C 250 TD, but it hasn't really worked out so far. My engine, which is from 1997, differs in some aspects from what's described in the manual, and furthermore, it often refers extensively to the C 200 model.
Could it be that even the spark plugs between numbers 605.960 and 602.962 are different?
Now, let's move on to the first half of the oil lifecycle.
I've attached two pictures.
Oil filter housing and oil cooler. I think that's what it is.
It's located in a different place as described in the instructions, and it also looks different.
Am I mistaken?
This also makes it more difficult to install the oil cooler externally.
The oil pressure sensor is also not located in the same place as it is on the 602.962; instead, there is a blind plug at that location.
I think that's the oil pressure regulator you can see there.
I will describe the second half of the oil cycle once we have clarified the first half. I would appreciate insightful answers.

Hi,

So, the spark plugs are different on the four-valve engines because the entire cylinder head has been modified.

Regarding the oil cooler, you would probably need to obtain a different filter housing.
e.g., from the 250 Turbo 10V or the naturally aspirated 290 engine from the Transporter.
Then you will also have the desired connection options.

Regarding the oil circulation system, I would suggest removing the oil/water heat exchanger and inspecting it to see how it works.

Best regards, Rodion.

rodNeX wrote:

Hi, So, the spark plugs are different on the four-valve engines because the entire cylinder head has been modified. Best regards, Rodion

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Are they only different mechanically, or also electrically? I'm asking because of the glow plug relay.
Can this part fit any 5-cylinder engine, or does it specifically have to be compatible with the 605.960 series?