Re: Authal auxiliary control units | Posts 32+

Andy wrote:

... Does anyone know if the auxiliary control units from Authal are the same for the 90hp (1Z) and 110hp (AFN) TDI engines? Although Authal's website lists two different part numbers, that doesn't necessarily mean they are different. ...

Hi,

Ulf once speculated about the different power outputs of the 90hp and 110hp engines. I believe the hardware is the same for both engines. The technical documentation regarding this must be different.

I also had an auxiliary heating system box installed in my Golf, but I'm definitely not sure which one it was. According to the previous owner, it was originally installed in a 90hp TDI and later also in a 110hp TDI.

The box is still for sale.

Bertil wrote:

Ulf once speculated about the different power outputs of the 90HP and 110HP engines. I believe that, from a hardware perspective, the engines are the same. The expert report on this is certainly different.

Hello everyone.

I suppose that my 97mm camera lens, due to its internal focusing capabilities, could also be used effectively in a 1Z mount.

Therefore, I suspect that the enclosures of a particular production series only differ in their factory calibration for one or another engine type.

Here's a question: If someone has one of those pressure-dependent control units from Authal, why don't they just open it up and tell us what's inside?


ixery

ixery wrote:

mal ne frage: wenn doch einer so ne ladedruckabhänige box hat von authal, warum schaut er nicht mal rein und erzählt was drin ist ??

Hi.

In mine, it seems to include:
a pressure sensor.
Surrounding the sensor is evaluation electronics with three potentiometers for adjusting the activation threshold, sensitivity to pressure changes, and the maximum amount of boost.
a FET (Field-Effect Transistor) that is inserted into pump line 1 and controlled by the pressure monitoring electronics.
and a reed relay that bypasses the FET when the device is turned off or errors are detected, thus restoring the normal circuit state.

Unfortunately, most of the substance has already spilled, making it impossible to expose the circuit board without causing damage...

Okay, a quick question about the main topic: power-on delay.

Since I'm not an electronics expert, I was looking for a solution that would be within my capabilities.
Here's a suggestion I want to put forward and see if you guys can tear it apart.

Why not use a relay connected to the D+ terminal of the alternator to activate the 10-cent tuning?
'That usually only happens when the engine is running. Shouldn't the testing of the control system already be completed by now?'

I'm looking forward to it.

maniac wrote:

Why not use a relay connected to the D+ terminal of the alternator to activate the 10-cent tuning? das liegt normalerweise erst an,wenn der motor läuft. da sollte doch der test des stellwerks schon abgeschlossen sein,oder?

Hi.

"Good idea, this should generally work. Simply place the relay coil between the positive terminal and ground (with a flyback diode for safety), and connect the switching contacts to the pump with a tuning resistor (and possibly diodes)."

eike wrote:

I have a better idea than using a relay. A relay can only be on or off and switches abruptly. How about using two optocouplers connected in an anti-parallel configuration? This would allow for tuning the circuit by adjusting the current flowing through the diodes. Beim ALH z.B. könnte man die Dioden (entkoppelt) auch mit dem Signal des Ladedrucksensors ansteuern. Dann wäre das Tuning nur aktiv, wenn man wirklich richtig Gas gibt und der Ladedruck auch vorhanden ist. Das spart unnötige Rumrußerei. Mann kann mit Hilfe eines Operationsverstärkers den Diodenstrom linearisieren und die Ansprechschwelle dann z.B. auf einen Ladedruck von 0,5 bar einstellen. DaThe tuning would mostly be active only when driving at full throttle, so you'd use it only when needed, and drive without it in normal conditions.

Hi there,
Has anyone ever actually implemented this proposal?

Regards,
Jens.

Well, no one has actually implemented that yet.

I would probably get a pressure switch that activates at 0.5 or 0.6 bar above atmospheric pressure. I would then use that to trigger the "10-cent tuning."
With this approach, you would achieve the desired dependence on boost pressure, and you wouldn't have to worry about a delay when starting the engine.
This minimizes the number of electronic components to an absolute minimum, namely the typical two diodes and a potentiometer.

Regards,
Jens.

Jens 16syncro wrote:

... I would probably get a pressure switch that switches at 0.5 or 0.6 bar above ambient pressure. I would then use that to activate the "10-cent tuning." ...

Why reinvent the wheel... exactly what you described is what the Authal Box does.

Bertil wrote:

Jens 16syncro wrote: ... I would probably get a pressure switch that switches at 0.5 or 0.6 bar above ambient pressure. I would then use that to activate the "10-cent tuning." ... Why reinvent the wheel... exactly what you described is what the Authal Box

does.

Hi there.

I can make it myself for 100 euros, but at Authal, I'd probably just get a tired smile. I don't need to spend the 750 euros for the TÜV approval (the technical report), especially in my case, as it's unnecessary.

But as always, everyone is responsible for themselves.

Regards,
Jens.

What's the point of all that effort? There are boxes available in the "online marketplace" for around €50 that won't cause any LL (limp mode) issues or error codes. They come pre-configured, and if you want, they even have a potentiometer for further adjustment.

Jens 16syncro wrote:

... I can make it myself for 100 euros. ...

"...and the most expensive car part I bought from online marketplaces cost 75 euros. It came with a certificate of authenticity! ... The cheapest one was 25 euros."

Bertil wrote:

Jens 16syncro wrote: ... I can make it myself for 100 euros. ... ... and the most expensive car part I found on the auction site cost 75 euros. With a certificate of authenticity! ... The cheapest one was for 25 euros.

Okay, thanks, I'll go check on eBay.
It can't get any simpler than this...

Regards,
Jens.