Mitdrehende Waschdüse Heckwischer (hier Golf4) | Posts 32+

Hello everyone,
"I installed the Valeo repair kit yesterday. It contains more parts than I actually needed, including the entire gearbox with the hollow shaft on which the wiper is mounted." Well, now the mechanic is like new again for just under 36 euros, and hopefully it will last until the car is sold. The first set lasted 6.5 years.
After assembly or modification, I believe that even lubrication won't help prevent seizing if insufficient grease was used during the assembly of the inner tube to the hollow shaft at the factory.

The connection of the windshield washer hose to the motor's connection fitting is also quite daring: it's a plug connection with a plastic clamp ring that has two small tabs. It's really dollhouse-style, very cute, with a VDO marking on the clamp ring. Therefore, I secured the connection with cable ties.

Removing the rear hatch trim on a 3BG is a nightmare. A general tip: first, unclip the lower trim. When I tried to forcefully remove the lower trim at the transition to the upper trim, the upper trim also came loose on the sides, and I was then able to completely remove the lower trim, which is held in place by (quite sturdy!) clips behind the upper trim. Assembly is then easier, and it's better to do it with two people.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Hi,

I think it got to me too.

Normally, I rarely use the rear wash function, but it was still working until October. However, when I tried to use it during the first light frost, before the predicted first night with temperatures dropping to -15 degrees Celsius, to remove any potentially insufficiently frost-resistant residue (I had topped up the water several times during the summer), nothing happened. So, I assumed that something had frozen and stopped using the device. Yesterday, after several days with above-freezing temperatures, I tried it again. Still nothing, but there was a smell of antifreeze in the car, and some of it was dripping from the rear door. This morning, I first removed the panels for the light bulb replacement so that moisture can escape from the door more easily. However, before using the search function (which immediately led me to this thread and Bertil's article), I didn't check whether the nozzle rotates (I'll check that this evening) - but at least it was in the correct position when it was at rest.

Does anyone know if the pump has enough power to simply detach the hose if a nozzle freezes? It makes me think that the last function was still working perfectly – the beam was going exactly where it should, and nothing was misaligned, whereas now it's not working at all.

I'll probably only repair it when it's warmer – and hope that the antifreeze solution I sprayed on yesterday has evaporated sufficiently well and without causing any damage (and of course, I won't use the washing function in the meantime). Or would other approaches to mitigating damage be more appropriate?

@Octavia_4x4: To remove the interior trim on a GP99, is it sufficient to remove the two covers, the screws behind them, and the screws in the handle recess, and then carefully pull off the trim?

Best regards,

Jan.

The harmful substances in the windshield washer fluid should almost completely evaporate or vaporize. If in doubt, simply rinse the relevant cavities with water and allow them to dry.

I was also surprised by the incredible pressure that the windshield washer nozzle pump in my car can generate. I only had a frozen rear windshield nozzle, which is integrated into the high-mounted auxiliary brake light in my vehicle. Here, the silicone hose came loose and filled the LED light, which has a clear glass appearance, almost to the top edge with the washing fluid. I removed it, rinsed it with clear water, and reinstalled it after drying. Since I didn't have any small hose clamps, I thought it would be a good idea to secure the slipped hose with a cable tie after attaching it.

Regarding the possibly rotating washing nozzle, I'm out of my depth...

Hi Jan,
I might have contributed to my washing machine nozzle "digitally" failing.
Last known use: operational. Next time: failure, with rotation. Eventually, the rust will be thick/strong enough...
Fortunately, no water had leaked into the tailgate, despite the rotating wash nozzle being in use.
Similarly, the hose hadn't slipped. I think the scenario where only the section from the wiper motor to the nozzle freezes, while the rest of the hose remains liquid, is unlikely. In this case, the internal pressure generated by the water pump in the hose would likely cause it to detach. It's more likely that the entire system freezes further towards the interior. Then, the ice formation in the area where the hose connects to the wiper motor is more likely to cause the connector to break off.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Jan6K wrote:

I will probably only repair that when it's warmer - and hope that the antifreeze shower from yesterday evaporated sufficiently well and without causing any damage, thanks to adequate ventilation (and of course, I won't use the washing function in the meantime). Or would other damage-mitigating approaches be more sensible?

"With the G IV, many owners have experienced issues with the tailgate lock malfunctioning, which in some cases even led to false alarms from the alarm system." The alcohol-infused liquid seems to be damaging the connections within the castle, particularly those located at the lowest point, which are most exposed to the liquid.

I would rather get the repair done sooner rather than later, to avoid any problems.

Hi everyone,

Quote:

It even led to false alarms in the DWA system. The alcohol-infused liquid seems to be damaging the connections within the castle, particularly those located at the lowest point, which are most exposed to the liquid.

DWA? I don't have anything like that . The technology of the lock is limited to the lock itself and the servo motor of the central locking system.

And: Earlier, I was running the thing with the windshield wipers extended in the parking lot at work, and I was looking at the nozzle while I did it. She obediently pointed upwards and made no attempt to follow the wiper blade.

Based on Bertil's pictures and description, I can't imagine the tube breaking without also twisting. Therefore, it's more likely that the hose came off or burst. This sounds like a much simpler fix than Bertil's complete repair, so I can probably do it even in this weather. Let's see what Octi has to say about dismantling the trim on his Ibiza, but it should be as simple as on a Golf IV, just a few screws and some pulling.

Best regards,

Jan.

Dealing with consequential damages is really not easy.

I've now received the 3rd one. The trunk latch (a locking mechanism that also integrated the microswitch for the trunk light) was damaged by the leaked washing water.

In addition, there is corrosion occurring inside the tailgate (due to insufficient corrosion protection).

The handle doesn't like being showered from the inside either; the seal swells up.

Regarding the hose connection, I have one more thing to add:

The connection to the windshield wiper motor is really "dollhouse style."
Alternatively, it can be connected with a short piece of rubber or fabric hose, similar to the oil drain lines or breather hoses. With just one more hose clamp, it's perfectly sealed.

Hello everyone,

Problem solved... it was actually NOT the problem described at the beginning of the thread.

As suspected, only the hose came off, likely due to the pressure from the pump when the nozzle was frozen. It's not really a "dollhouse" type of connection; it clicked back into place audibly (a plastic part had detached, but it seems very secure now). Cable ties won't work because they are not elastic.

Anyway, the washing nozzle is working again.

Best regards,

Jan.

Jan6K wrote:

Cable ties or similar items won't work because they are not elastic.

Hi,
Okay, here's the translation:

"You can also use cable ties in front of the coupling, cable ties behind the coupling, and then pull all three together."
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Hello.

I built a different design for my G4 variant.

I bought the hose and nozzle for the Sprinter from Mercedes.
The hole through which the brass tube passes was enlarged, the hose was threaded through it, and the nozzle was mounted on the wiper arm.

It's been running smoothly for 5 years now.


Best regards,