Registeraufladung AFN... | Posts 32+

You can open the valves by blowing air into them; with a softer spring, you'll be in the range of a few hundredths of a bar. The throttle valve of an air mass meter (AAT, AEL, L-Motronic, etc.) creates significantly more back pressure.

The engine will be completely rebuilt.

Where can I get a valve like that?
I haven't found anything like that yet.

Best regards.
Sven.

Available at all sanitary supply stores, etc.
In a hardware store, probably not, and definitely not as a 2-inch size... because that's already too large for the average DIYer to install using a standard DIY pipe wrench costing around 5 euros.

Something like that, e.g. -> http://www.haustechnik-express.de/product_info.php?products_id=1676

In this case, it's a 3/4 inch diameter – so it's too thin for you.

You'll also need a 2-inch pipe double nipple, which you can bend in the middle, and then weld a weld bead to the bent ends (make sure to deburr and bevel the edges) where the hose clamp will attach.
Some Teflon tape or thread sealant for sealing.
Do you also sell it in specialized stores ?

EDIT: 1.5 inches might also be sufficient, depending on the desired performance/boost pressure.

I've now looked for alternatives to the check valve again.

I've come up with the following combination...

Throttle body from the AEY engine + intake manifold from the 1Y engine.
In my opinion, combining the two results in a good solution for controlling the flap.
Open the throttle valve using a solenoid valve at the moment the magnetic coupling deactivates the compressor.


What do you think of the solution?

Best regards.
Sven.

Forget it!

You have a digital switching mechanism, and the switching thresholds have a resonance-enhancing effect. You can't achieve proper results simply by turning things on and off; you need a reference value based on which to switch. In your case, it's the boost pressure.

Unfortunately, this affects your reference value, and you can no longer use it as a control signal for your (unstable) control loop.

Just use a check valve, and it will work - trust me!

I would also advise against disconnecting the compressor, as that would also introduce an unstable element into your control loop (albeit a mechanical one).

However, one could also use the speed as a reference value.

Or, if possible, manipulate the EGR map.

I wanted to disengage the compressor so that I could start with a higher gear ratio from the beginning.

Best regards.

Edit: I just found something else regarding the check valve...
[img][/img]

I'll reach out to the guys about the valve.http://www.erphi.de/images/grafik_systementw.jpg{MARKER}

35i-299 wrote:

However, I would have liked to disengage the compressor...

That will cause some jolting. Do you want that?

Not if you disengage the clutch at precisely the right moment.

Or, to put it another way, if you disengage the compressor when the turbocharger provides the same or greater boost pressure.

Regarding check valves... Could the following also be used?
http://cgi.ebay.de/Rueckschlagventil-Kegelventil-63-mm-Pool-Schwimmbad-NEU_W0QQitemZ170267711735QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPool_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item27a4bf18f7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A19


Best regards.
Sven.

Forget that plastic stuff, it doesn't hold up to oil or temperature for very long .

35i-299 wrote:

Not if you disengage it at the exact right moment.

And how do you plan to achieve that? Are you going to install a TSI engine control unit (ECU)? Forget about it with your original.

No, not a TSI STG.

When working with a check valve, the shutdown process could be implemented using a differential pressure switch.

If I replace the check valve with the "throttle valve" from the AEY engine and control it with boost pressure from the turbocharger, then it would be possible to use a microswitch that, when the valve is fully open, shuts off the turbocharger via a relay.

Best regards.
Sven.

If you absolutely want to disable the compressor, you could do it by manipulating the AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) output. You would simply define a threshold based on engine speed and flow rate, above which the duty cycle of the AGR would change. Unfortunately, I cannot guarantee that the EGR system will be fast enough, as the EGR system is technically unnecessary and can be slow.

The clutch can only be engaged when the compressor has already been bypassed by a multiple of its flow rate, otherwise the vehicle will jerk.

I would say,

learning by doing...

"Money laundering by doing" comes closer to describing it.

How would you do that?

As I mentioned in my proposal: use a check valve, not a clutch. A Roots blower should be able to handle that much speed. "It's just the two compressor screws, and they don't have a very large diameter."