Lima-Reglerspannung.Welche ist okay? | Posts 32+

I know, I've only had the car for 1.5 years, but I realized too late that it was low on coolant, and by then it was already too late to prevent damage.
In our family, batteries typically last around 9 years, and even longer, up to 11 years in the Škoda. We replace them proactively to prevent anyone, especially Grandma or Mom, from getting stranded somewhere.

According to the acid test, my battery had acceptable values for 5 cells, but unfortunately, one cell was completely dead, and there's nothing you can do about that.

But that's going off-topic. Batteries seem to be a never-ending story when you start looking into them.

I was surprised that the "no name" battery (71Ah) felt several kilograms lighter than the Moll battery (70Ah).

Hi Benni!

Benni wrote:

... According to the acid-base test, my Moll had acceptable values for 5 chambers, but unfortunately, one cell was closed, and there's nothing you can do about that. But that's going off-topic. Batteries seem to be a never-ending story when you start looking into them. I was surprised that the "no name" battery (71Ah) was a few kilograms (felt) lighter than the Moll battery (70Ah)

.
Exactly the same thing happened to me or my "Moll", see: /viewtopic.php?t=26933.

The weight is correct because the quality and performance of a lead-acid battery depend on the amount of lead it contains, not the plastic casing.

Best regards from Munich!

cumminsracer wrote:

Another observation: I occasionally charged the battery, and more frequently towards the end, using an electric charger (a Cetek clone). It's suspiciously common for the batteries to fail shortly after purchase. I'm already on my third or fourth one. Coincidence? It sounds illogical at first.

"Sorry, I missed that."

Based on my experience, I suspect that the batteries eventually release any sediment they have accumulated during charging with a battery charger (or during a subsequent attempt to start), and at some point, one of the cells becomes faulty, sealing the battery's fate.
I suspect this can be prevented by regularly connecting the charger and forcing a full charge. Furthermore, in my opinion, there are few to no cars that will fully charge the battery with a driving range of up to 25 km per trip.

Another hypothesis could be that isolated sulfate crystals have a stabilizing effect on the remaining structure of the battery and its fine (active) crystals, thereby reducing the formation of sludge. However, this is just a random thought I had.

I decided to go with the cheaper battery because I doubt that the extra cost versus the lifespan of a brand-name battery is worth it. And replacing it is quick anyway. We're talking about the value of almost a full tank of gas, which isn't much.

Here's a small update:
As expected, there was not only loud laughter (from the 19-month-old), but also a fancy, sparkling battery tester that confirmed my dead Varta battery (95Ah 800A) had only 57% power and 580A. According to the printout, "Battery defective."
The battery stayed there for testing, and they provided a "loaner" battery for that purpose.
I immediately connected the Varta starter battery (71Ah, 740A) to that so-called tester, and it showed 95% and 880A, indicating "battery OK"... which says a lot about the accuracy of that "measuring device."
Now I have the loan battery and I'm quite satisfied with it for now... but I will still go back to return it and get my broken one fixed.

@Martin: Great idea! I just ordered one of those voltage indicators myself.
By the way, does anyone know where to buy a great, standardized, blue, 5-pin "EU electric car charging cable"? Here in Berlin, there are now parking spaces in prime locations that offer "free parking for electric cars" everywhere... Occasionally, you can park for free and meanwhile pamper the battery with a CTEK charger... all that separates you from it is the right cable.
It came to mind again when I saw your wonderful picture.

The clone was connected to a different new battery again, and the voltage across its terminals increased and then stabilized at a constant 13.2V.
What else can be measured? / How else can we measure things?
The T4 has started so far... my skepticism about Cetek is diminishing, diminishing, diminishing...

I can't even find any information about what the plug looks like.

It's all just empty talk about needing to reach an agreement or having already reached one.

This is at least "standard" .

dieselmartin wrote:

I can't even find any information about what the plug looks like. It's all just empty talk about needing to reach an agreement or having already reached one. This is at least "standard"

.

At Google, the plug can be found under "Mennekes," which is one of the manufacturers. I'm not trying to do any kind of promotional advertising. So far, the brand name from our wonderful Sauerland region has been on every plug I've seen, and thanks to RWE being our office neighbor, we have them everywhere .

Is this about that?

http://www.greenmotorsblog.de/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Mennekes_Stecker.jpg

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

He's currently working on an Opel Ampera.

Edit Autoservice: Here, German spelling rules apply!!!! Please correct it or the post will be deleted.

Edit2: Post deleted! Please read the forum rules!