Zündeinstellung Polo 86c 40 kw Bj. 92 1272 ccm | Posts 32+

It's also mentioned here; you just need to check if there's an OT/Z or notch marking on the flywheel of your Polo. Otherwise, the marking is often found on the pulley.

Adjusting the ignition timing.

To adjust the ignition timing, you essentially only need a stroboscope, also known as a flash lamp. This allows you to normally set the ignition timing to the factory specifications. A lamp like that costs approximately 20€ at the large store "E."

To adjust the ignition timing, the ignition timing advance feature must be disabled because otherwise, it's impossible to achieve a stable result, as the ignition timing advance will never remain constant. In configuration mode, this setting is not active, and therefore the ZZP remains constant.
To enter this "mode," there are various options available for each individual motor.
For engines where the timing is adjusted using a vacuum diaphragm on the distributor, it's simple: you just need to disconnect the hose and seal it.
For electrically controlled systems, normally, with the engine running, the connector from the coolant temperature sensor needs to be disconnected (either a blue 2-pin connector or a black 4-pin connector).

Note: Before starting, disconnect the distributor from the mounting bracket and check that it rotates freely. Once the engine is warm, and the distributor won't turn, you can easily burn your fingers trying to force it.

You start the engine normally, let it warm up (until the fan kicks in), then put it into adjustment mode and take a reading from the flywheel.
On the transmission, facing the engine, there is a rubber bellows beneath which a portion of the flywheel can be seen. The necessary markings are also on this.

Note: When the engine is stationary, you can easily mark the timing mark with chalk, a white marker, or something similar. This makes it much easier to spot the mark when checking the timing.

If the image isn't quite "stable," it can help to do the process with the engine running at a slightly higher idle speed (around 2000 RPM).

The ignition timing is adjusted by rotating the distributor.

For electrically controlled systems, normally, with the engine running, the connector from the coolant temperature sensor needs to be disconnected (either a blue 2-pin connector or a black 4-pin connector).


I started the engine without the connector plugged in, and the ZZP (presumably referring to a sensor or system) remained very unstable.
Tomorrow, I'm going to unplug the connector while the engine is running.

I'd be interested to know why you have to disconnect the plug of a temperature sensor to disable the ignition timing adjustment.
At first glance, it doesn't make sense.
Or could it be related to the fact that as the temperature increases, a different ignition map is selected, and that without the connector, this map is simply deactivated or only the default setting is used?
That would at least make logical sense.
Best regards, Frank.

Hi.
I started the engine and let it warm up, then I disconnected the plug while the engine was running.
The ignition timing actually seemed quieter to me.
I then adjusted the ignition timing, and after a few days, I have to say that I now have a motor that runs better.
I can't say anything about the consumption yet, but I'll get back to you about that later.
The idle speed is currently a bit too low, but I can't measure it precisely.
I'm going to verschandeln the throttle body, using a Q-tip and some cleaner.
Best regards, Frank.

Sure, here's the translation:

'PS: Thank you for the tips.'

F B wrote:

Hello. I started the engine and let it warm up, then I disconnected the plug while the engine was running. The ignition timing actually seemed quieter to me. I then adjusted the ignition timing, and after a few days, I have to say that I now have a motor that runs better. I can't say anything about the consumption yet, but I'll get back to you about that later. The idle speed is currently a bit too low, but I can't measure it precisely. I'm going to verschandeln the throttle body, using a Q-tip and some cleaner. Best regards, Frank. PS: THANK YOU for the tips

Thank you for the feedback .

Hi.
And the fight continues.
The spark plugs were changed 3000 km ago, so there shouldn't be any problem... but I checked them anyway.
The spark plug for cylinder 4 was completely covered in carbon deposits.
The other 3 were okay.
I replaced the spark plug with a new one, and after 10 days, it was almost completely fouled again.
Because the engine was already consuming too much oil, and the fourth... The cylinder was making a clicking noise frequently, so I just started working on it and replaced the valve stem seals.
Regarding the event of the 4th. Zylinder replaced the Hydros.
The ignition timing has been readjusted using the proven method, thank you again for that.
Now, after another 10 days, all the candles look the same, and there's no more rattling.
Current issue:
The fourth cylinder is running at idle. The cylinder isn't always engaged, and at a constant speed, it feels like it's stuttering.
With the new timing belt, I'm planning to take the car for a long drive on the highway soon to clear out any deposits that have built up in the engine. To burn out the cylinders.
Let's see if the fourth one goes better.
So, the distributor cap, spark plug wires, finger contacts, and valve stem seals are all new.

The power brake booster seems to be losing vacuum overnight.
Could it be that the fourth cylinder is running too lean?
How can I test this without a new BKV (building control valve)?
Just try removing the hose and temporarily sealing it with a cork?
Best regards, Frank.

Was the compression checked after the hydraulic lifters and valve stem seals were replaced?

Consistently 10 to 11 in the warm state.
I want to take measurements again: first when the engine is cold, then when it's warm, and finally with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder.
If the deposits on the valves are the same as those on the spark plug, there's likely a thick layer of buildup on them.
Before anyone asks, I've pressurized each cylinder with compressed air, and I've replaced the valve stem seals with the cylinder head still attached.

Best regards, Frank.

F B wrote:

Consistently 10 to 11 in the warm state. I want to take measurements again: first when the engine is cold, then when it's warm, and finally with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder. If the deposits on the valves are the same as those on the spark plug, there's likely a thick layer of buildup on them. Before anyone asks, I've pressurized each cylinder with compressed air, and I've replaced the valve stem seals with the cylinder head still attached. Best regards, Frank

I wanted to rule out the possibility of a mechanical problem with cylinder 4, such as a broken piston ring or something similar. That would have also been consistent with the oil consumption.

Regarding the BKV (likely referring to a specific component or system): Is the vacuum pressure connection from the BKV disconnected from the intake manifold of cylinder 4? This might explain your suspicion related to cylinder 4. Also, please carefully inspect the vacuum pressure hose if you haven't already. They tend to tear easily, and often at the bottom, where it's not visible.

Regarding deposits: It's better not to force it, but rather to gradually increase the speed. Otherwise, dissolving deposits can quickly lead to piston seizure. Let it burn slowly.

I wanted to rule out the possibility of a mechanical problem with cylinder 4, such as a broken piston ring or something similar. That would have also been consistent with the oil consumption.


I can't say anything about the current oil consumption, but it was approximately 800 km per liter, or slightly more.

Regarding the BKV (likely referring to a specific component or system): Is the vacuum pressure connection from the BKV disconnected from the intake manifold of cylinder 4? This might explain your suspicion related to cylinder 4. Also, please carefully inspect the vacuum pressure hose if you haven't already. They tend to tear easily, and often at the bottom, where it's not visible.

Thanks, but I only have a mirror and don't have a camera yet.
Let me see.


Regarding deposits: It's better not to force it, but rather to gradually increase the speed. Otherwise, dissolving deposits can quickly lead to piston seizure. Let it burn slowly.

Hmm, let's see.
I was thinking about flooding the cylinder with 2-stroke oil, waiting 24 hours, and then taking it on the highway.
I have another identical, working motor lying around, but it's more about the principle for me.
And I'm too lazy to change the engine.
Best regards, Frank.

Hi,
"How do you recognize that it is the 4th?" Does the cylinder have any defects?
You yourself said that the compression is the same on all four cylinders, and after replacing the valve stem seals and the hydraulic lifters, the spark plug appearance is also the same.
hg
Herbert.

Very simple.
'Should I remove the spark plug from the 4th cylinder?' Removing the cylinder doesn't change anything.
It just has a 3-cylinder engine.
If I give it even a little gas, it immediately starts running.
That is not always the case.
I need to find some time to observe exactly when and at what temperature this happens.
But there aren't that many options left:
Excessive deposits leading to misfires.
Auxiliary air supply to the brake booster.
No idea...
I'll drive around for a bit first, then I'll continue searching.
Best regards, Frank.

Does the spark jump across when the spark plug is disconnected (from the plug to the spark plug or from the distributor to the cable)?
hg
Herbert.

Does the spark jump across when the connector is pulled (from the connector to the spark plug or from the distributor to the cable)?
hg
Herbert

Yes.
Centimeters away, exactly like the distance to the other cylinders.
Cap, finger joint is new, wiring harness is 3000 km old.

Tomorrow I can check for any leaks, and then I will drive a total of 80 km (two trips of 40 km each).
Tuesday will be a 'do-it-yourself' day, as that's when the ball joints (or are they called tie rods?) will be replaced.
At the same time, I'll also replace the strut mounts.
Best regards, Frank.

Hi!

So, if I read that, it's 1 liter of oil per 800 kilometers.
Spark plug fouled.
The 4-cylinder engine seems to be idling improperly.
I have a feeling I know what's going on.
I would focus on the engine first and leave everything else aside until it's running properly.
if ever again.

Since you have already replaced the valve stem seals using compressed air.
Did you notice anything?
So, it came out of the engine block, right?

I actually had the exact same problem with my previous car years ago.
And that's exactly how it all happened.
I then replaced all the VSDs, using compressed air.
"And that's when I immediately realized that one of the cylinders, wherever the spark plug was, was flooded."
piston rings, which presents a significant problem.

Hi Steffen,
Hi!

So, if I read that, it's 1 liter of oil per 800 kilometers.
Spark plug fouled.
The 4-cylinder engine seems to be idling improperly.
I have a feeling I know what's going on.

Since you have already replaced the valve stem seals using compressed air.
Did you notice anything?
So, it came out of the engine block, right?


The crankcase ventilation system remained stable, or rather, the leakage was approximately the same for all 4 cylinders.
By the way, the spark plugs remain verschandeln on all 4 cylinders, and I think the spark plug appearance is perfectly fine.
Apparently, the only thing that was causing the oil leak was the valve stem seal.
Previously, based on the mileage of the past few days, I would have already needed to add at least half a liter.
Nothing is missing now.
Despite this, the engine has almost reached its maximum lifespan.
The wear marks on the camshaft bearing surfaces don't look like they belong to a new part.
Unfortunately, the odometer only has 5 digits, and no one can say whether it has 77,000, 177,000, 277,000, or more kilometers on it.
But it runs, doesn't rattle, consumes significantly less oil than before, starts reliably, and sounds healthy.
That's enough for me to get to work.
In 2 years, I'll upgrade to something else/something newer.
This month, I still need to get the car inspected (TÜV), but the prerequisites for the authorization (AU) have been completed for now.

PS: When the engine is warm, the fourth cylinder is now running in idle.
Best regards, Frank.

News from the front lines.
I went to the doctor's office this morning, and my Lambda value was 1.3.
So, no need for the TÜV inspection.
After spraying it with brake cleaner, I removed the Monotronik and classified this rubber flange as almost a total loss.
Nicely done, the sealing was done well with Dirko HT, and everything is screwed together properly.
Misfires are now a thing of the past, and the ignition timing feels perfectly optimized, almost like it's permanently fixed.
Therefore, the need for fresh air...
Unfortunately, the throttle potentiometer seems to be faulty.
Deep down, I have a feeling that something isn't right.

Okay, so tomorrow I'll be taking everything apart again and replacing the top part and possibly the rubber part from the second engine.
Question:
Does the new throttle position sensor need to be calibrated?
If so, how?
Can the lambda sensor be tested to see if it's working properly?
If in doubt, I still have the equipment, but I would like to use measurements to determine whether it is actually defective or not.
The forums have different opinions on that matter.
Best regards, Frank.