Zündeinstellung Polo 86c 40 kw Bj. 92 1272 ccm | Beiträge 32+

Here, you should also check if your Polo has an OT/Z or notch marking on the crankshaft pulley, otherwise the marking is often found on the pulley itself.

Adjust the ignition

To adjust the ignition, you basically only need a stroboscope, which is also called a flash lamp. This allows you to normally adjust the ignition to the original settings. Such a lamp costs around 20€ at the large E.

To adjust the ignition timing, the ignition timing adjustment must be inactive because otherwise it is impossible, as the ignition timing never remains constant. In the adjustment mode, this function is not active, and therefore the ignition timing remains constant.

To get into this "mode", there are different possibilities for each engine.

For engines where the adjustment is controlled by a vacuum valve on the ignition distributor, it is simple because you only need to remove and close the hose.

For electrically controlled engines, you usually need to disconnect the connector from the coolant temperature sensor (either a blue 2-pin or a black 4-pin) while the engine is running.

Note: Before starting, disconnect the distributor from the clutch and check for free movement when rotating. If the engine is already warm and the distributor will not turn, be careful not to get your fingers caught!

You start the engine normally, let it warm up (until the fan starts), then put it in adjustment mode and take measurements off the flywheel.

There's a rubber bumper under the transmission, facing the engine, where you can see part of the flywheel. This is where the necessary markings are located.

Note: If you rotate the engine to OT (over-rev) while stationary, you can easily mark the marking with chalk, white Edding, etc., which will make it much easier to read.

If the image is not completely "stable," this can help to improve it at a higher idle speed (around 2000 1/min).

The ZZP (presumably referring to a Zündverteiler or distributor) is adjusted by turning the distributor.

For electrically controlled systems, it is usually necessary to disconnect the connector of the coolant temperature sensor (either a blue 2-pin or a black 4-pin) when the motor is running.




I started the engine without disconnecting the connector, and the engine speed remained very unstable.
Tomorrow, I will disconnect the connector while the engine is running.

I'd also be interested to know why you need to disconnect the temperature sensor plug to disable the ignition timing adjustment.

At first glance, this doesn't make sense.

Or does it have to do with the fact that as the temperature increases, a different ignition square is taken from the ignition map, and without the plug, the ignition map is simply inactive or only the zero setting is used?

That would at least make sense.

Best regards, Frank

Hi,

I started the engine and then removed the spark plug while it was running.
I actually found that the timing was running smoother.
I then adjusted the ignition and, after a few days, I can say that I have a smoother-running engine.
I can't comment on the fuel consumption yet, but I will get back to you about that.
The idle speed is now a little too low, but I can't measure it exactly.
I'm going to verschandeln the throttle body with a Q-tip and cleaner.

Best regards,
Frank

PS: THANK YOU for the tips

F B hat folgendes geschrieben:

Hi, I managed to warm up the engine and then removed the plug while it was running. I actually felt that the ignition timing was more stable. I then adjusted the ignition and, after a few days, I can say that I have a smoother-running engine. I can't comment on the fuel consumption yet, but I'll get back to you about that. The idle speed is now a little too low, but I can't measure it exactly. I'm going to verschandeln the throttle body with a Q-tip and cleaner. Best regards, Frank PS: Thanks for the tips

Thanks for the feedback

Hi
And the battle continues.
3000 KM ago, the spark plugs were replaced, so nothing could be the cause.... nevertheless, I checked.
The spark plug from cylinder 4 was completely clogged.
The other 3 were ok.
I replaced the affected spark plug with a new one, and after 10 days, it was almost completely sealed again.
Because the engine was also consuming too much oil and cylinder 4 was also making a clicking sound, I simply started by replacing the valve stem seals.
I also replaced the hydropneumatic system for cylinder 4.
The ignition was re-adjusted according to the proven method, thank you again.
Now, after another 10 days, all the spark plugs look the same and nothing is rattling anymore.
Current problem:
When idling, cylinder 4 doesn't always run, and at a constant speed, it feels like it's hesitating.
Thanks to the new timing belt, I'll soon take the engine for a spin on the highway to burn off the deposits from cylinder 4.
Let's see if cylinder 4 runs better then.
The distributor cap, finger, spark plug cables, and valve stem seals are therefore new.

The brake booster seems to have lost its vacuum overnight.
Is it possible that the 4th cylinder is running too lean?
How can I test this without replacing the brake booster?
Just remove the hose and temporarily seal it with a cork?
Regards, Frank

Was wurde nach der Reparatur der Hydros und der Kolbenringe gemessen?

Mainly between 10 and 11 in the warm state.
I want to measure again in the cold state, then in the warm state, and finally with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder.
If the deposits on the valves are the same as on the spark plug, there will probably be a thick layer.
Before anyone asks, I have used compressed air on each cylinder and replaced the valve stem seals when the cylinder head was mounted.

Best regards, Frank

F B hat folgendes geschrieben:

Mainly between 10 and 11 in the warm state. I want to measure again in the cold state, then in the warm state, and finally with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder. If the deposits on the valves are the same as on the spark plug, there will probably be a thick layer. Before anyone asks, I have used compressed air on each cylinder and replaced the valve stem seals when the cylinder head was mounted. Best regards, Frank

I wanted to rule out the possibility of a mechanical problem in cylinder 4, such as a broken piston ring, etc. This could also explain the oil consumption.

Regarding the vacuum line: Does its connection to the intake manifold of cylinder 4 disconnect? That's why you suspect cylinder 4? And please check the vacuum line carefully, if you haven't already. They often crack, and frequently at the bottom, making them difficult to see.

Regarding deposits: It's better not to beat them, but to gradually release them. Otherwise, quickly dislodging deposits could cause a piston to seize. It's better to let them burn off slowly.

I wanted to rule out the possibility of a mechanical problem in cylinder 4, such as a broken piston ring, etc. This could also explain the oil consumption.

I have no information about the current oil consumption, but it was approximately 800 km = 1 liter, perhaps a little more.

Regarding the vacuum pressure hose: Does its connection to the intake manifold of the 4th cylinder disconnect? That's why you suspect cylinder 4? And please check the vacuum pressure hose carefully, if you haven't already. They often crack, and frequently at the bottom, making them difficult to see.

Thank you, but I only have a mirror and no camera yet.
I'll take a look.


Regarding deposits: It's better not to beat on it, but to gradually release them. Otherwise, the deposits could quickly cause a piston to seize. It's better to let them burn off slowly.

Hmm, let me see.
I was thinking about flooding the cylinder with 2-stroke oil, waiting for 24 hours, and then taking it on the highway.
I have another identical, healthy engine lying around, but I'm more interested in the principle.
And I'm too lazy to change the engine.
Best regards, Frank

Hi,
how do you recognize that cylinder 4 is the one with the misfires?
You yourself say that the compression is the same on all four cylinders, and after replacing the piston rings and the hydraulic lifters, the spark plug pattern is also the same.
hg
Herbert

Very simple.
If I disconnect the spark plug from cylinder 4, nothing changes.
It just runs on 3 cylinders.
If I give it a little = minimal throttle, it starts running immediately.
But this isn't always the case.
I need to take some time to observe when exactly this occurs at what temperature.
But there aren't that many possibilities left:
Too much buildup and resulting misfires
Air leaking through the brake booster
I have no idea...
I'll start by driving freely and then continue searching.
Regards, Frank

Does the spark jump across (from the plug to the spark plug or from the ignition distributor to the cable) when the plug is pulled out?
hg
Herbert

Does the spark jump across (from the plug to the spark plug or from the distributor to the cable) when the connector is pulled out?
hg
Herbert

Yes.
Exactly as with the other cylinders.
The cap and finger are new, the cable set is 3000 km old.
Tomorrow I can check for any leaks and then I will drive 2x 40 km.
Tuesday will be the day for replacing the track joints (or are they called 'tie rods'?).
I'll also replace the wishbone bearings at the same time.
Best regards, Frank

Hi!

So, if I read that correctly, 1 liter of oil per 800 km,
spark plug replaced,
the 4-cylinder doesn't seem to be running properly at idle,
I'm already suspecting what's wrong.

I would first focus on the engine and make sure it runs properly,
if it ever runs again.

Since you replaced the valve stem seals with compressed air,
did you notice anything?
Specifically, did it leak oil from the engine block?

I had exactly the same problem with my previous car a few years ago,
it was exactly like this,
I then replaced all the VSDs, as well as the compressed air,
and then I immediately realized that one of the cylinders, no matter which one, had a major problem with the piston rings.

Hi Steffen,

So, wenn ich das lese, 1 Liter Öl auf 800 km,
Zündkerze wurde ausgetauscht,
der 4-Zylinder läuft wahrscheinlich nicht richtig im Leerlauf,
ich vermute schon, was los ist.

Da du die Ventilschaftdichtungen mit Druckluft gewechselt hast,
ist dir da irgendetwas aufgefallen?
Zum Beispiel, dass es aus dem Motorblock gespritzt hat?

The crankcase ventilation remained quiet, or the loss was approximately the same for all 4 cylinders.
Incidentally, the spark plugs remain verschandeln in all 4 cylinders, and I think the spark plug pattern is perfectly fine.
The thing that was actually consuming the oil was apparently just the valve stem seal.
I should have probably added at least half a liter before, based on the mileage of the last few days.
Now everything is fine.
Nevertheless, the engine has almost reached its maximum mileage.
The wear marks in the camshaft bearing are no longer from new.
Unfortunately, the odometer only has 5 digits, and no one can say whether it has run 77,000, 177,000, 277,000 or more kilometers.
But it runs, doesn't rattle, consumes significantly less oil than before, starts reliably, and sounds healthy.
That's enough for me to get to work.
In 2 years, I'll get something else/something newer.
I'll get it inspected this month, but the requirements for the TÜV are already met.

PS: When running in neutral, the 4th gear is now working properly.
Best regards, Frank

News from the Front

I went to the garage this morning and the Lambda value was 1.3.
So no chance for the inspection.
After cleaning with brake cleaner, I removed the Monotronik and classified this rubber flange as almost a total loss.
I cleaned it thoroughly, sealed it with Dirko, and reassembled it.
The ignition problems are now a foreign language, and the ignition timing seems completely jammed.
Therefore, I'm resorting to the external air system...
Unfortunately, it seems that the throttle pot is not working correctly.
My gut feeling tells me that something must be wrong.

Okay, so tomorrow I'll disassemble everything again and replace the upper part and possibly the rubber part from the second engine.
Question:
Does the new throttle valve potentiometer need to be re-calibrated?
If so, how?
Can the lambda sensor be measured to see if it's working?
If in doubt, I also have the parts, but I would like to measure them to see if they are actually defective or not.
The forums have different opinions on this...
Regards, Frank