ABS - Kontrollleuchte geht bei über 20km/h an | Posts 32+

Okay, I've removed and reinstalled the fuses again. While doing that, I cleaned the sockets. (But I couldn't find any signs of corrosion.)
I also checked the plug on the pump.

The only effect was that the ABS light was off when starting the car. However, as soon as the speed exceeds 20 km/h, it turns on again. After a restart, it remains on permanently.

It looks like it was all for nothing.

It seems to be really defective.

Does anyone know of any other ways to obtain a used part? (The shops I've already contacted don't have anything like that.)

Sure, here's the translation:

'It would be really helpful.'

Thank you.

Regards,
Frulle.

@ frulle

Have you tried connecting the pump directly to the battery as described above? If you think it's broken, the polarity shouldn't matter.

I once found an ABS unit on e**y. It was brand new, and nobody bid on it, so it was available for €99. Unfortunately, I don't remember the name or item number anymore. Maybe the seller will list it again sometime.

Good luck with your search. However, you should pay very close attention to the part number, as there are many different variations of the ABS system.

Best regards, Günni.

Thanks for your suggestions, I'll test the pump.
I still have a hydraulic pump with a control unit at home. I bought it on eBay, but it doesn't fit my car because the connector is too large. It's an ESP (Electronic Stability Program) version, which I don't have. The part number is VW 6x0614517.

I will still test connecting the pump directly to the battery (possibly this weekend).
How exactly does the number need to match? (I know, it's probably a silly question...)
Mine has the number J0 614 217A. Another one I saw has the same number, but instead of an 'A' at the end, it has a 'C'. Visually, they look exactly the same.

Regards,
Frulle.

I just found another two numbers located below the block.
It is 1J0 907 379 A.
The offered part number is 1J0 907 379 H.

@ frulle

I checked the part numbers you provided today. Unfortunately, the two parts (index A and C) are not compatible. According to the parts catalog, the difference lies in the manufacturer (the part C has the addition 'ITT'). Furthermore, version A was only used for a specific period. From chassis number FGN 8L-V-200000* onwards, only part C and subsequent letters were used. All parts are for ABS and EDS. The components have also been replaced: 1J0 614 217 A has been replaced by 1J0 698 217, and 1J0 614 217 C has been replaced by 1J0 698 217 A.

Therefore, only the part numbers 1J0 614 217 A and 1J0 698 217 are suitable for a trouble-free replacement. I cannot say whether your 1J0 614 217 C will work, but in my opinion, the chances of it working are very slim.

Best regards, Günni.

@günni
Thank you for the information.
I checked with the dealer again yesterday afternoon.
The system didn't find any reason why the parts shouldn't fit.
Usually, the letters at the end indicate further developments or versions.

That obviously contradicts the information you provided.

I'll probably have to follow up on that.

Regards,
Frulle.

Frulle wrote:

Usually, the letters at the end are for further developments.

...where, as a result of further developments, the possibility of switching back to earlier versions may be eliminated (although these versions would still need to be available in parallel).

Viele 1.9 Turbochargers unterscheiden sich im Katalog nur durch die Buchstaben. Aber beispielsweise ein ATD turbocharger (100 PS) an einem ARL engine (150 PS) würde nicht lange halten...

@ frulle

Since both components are no longer manufactured, and have also been replaced by different parts, I think they are not compatible. Otherwise, they could have been replaced by the same part during the course of further development . I don't want to claim that I am 100% correct, but one should always be a little cautious with the statements of the friendly staff . They (and sometimes they want to) don't know everything.

Best regards, Günni.

Hello, I'm experiencing the same problem as described above. Today, I managed to locate the fault on my vehicle. It's a broken cable in the engine compartment, within the cable duct. Can you help me? I want to use a continuity tester to check each wire, but where does the cable that connects to the hydraulic pump control unit actually go? Or can you give me other tips?

Thank you.
Martin.

@ highspeed1

My wiring diagram is for the Bora model produced from May 1999 onwards, but I hope the pin configuration hasn't changed.

No cables for the hydraulic pump run through the wiring harness in the engine compartment. According to the wiring diagram, the pump is directly controlled by the control unit located in the unit (via the 2-pin cable to the pump). If you can measure anything, it's likely just the supply voltages for the control unit. The '30' (constant positive) runs once from fuse 6 (on the battery) to pin 25 on the large connector, and once from fuse 7 (on the battery) to pin 9 on the large connector. The '31' (ground) can be found at pins 8 and 24.

In my opinion, assuming the control unit is functioning correctly, only these lines are crucial for the pump's operation, as the control unit, similar to a relay, simply switches the power on when required.

I also measured the resistance of these wires myself, but even with the fault, I had a wire resistance of almost 0 ohms because the contact resistance at the corroded contacts only becomes significant at high currents. You can start by measuring the wires and then connect an external load with a high current draw to this circuit to see if current still flows.

If you've already tested the pump directly on the battery and it's working there, and you've thoroughly cleaned all three fuse locations and replaced the fuses, then I'm at a loss.

Good luck with your search, and please keep us updated.

Best regards, Günni.

Okay, so here's what happened: I opened the cable duct, and a colleague moved and pressed against the 3 or 4 thick cables inside. I turned the ignition on and off, but when a certain amount of pressure was applied to the cable leading to the pump, the ABS light went out during startup. I've had a sporadic problem before, where the light would come on whenever I hit a bump or curb. Sometimes I'd have a break of 3 months, other times just a week, and for the past six months it's been constant. As I said, by pressing on the cable harness, the problem disappeared, so I concluded that there must be a broken wire somewhere. I've checked the cables up to a certain point with a multimeter, and the resistance values were okay. It would be much better if I knew exactly where the cables leading to the pump go.
But if you mean that the Ohmic values don't tell much because the fault is only detected at high currents, then I'm out of ideas.
I'm at my wit's end because I can't find the error, and now that I've opened the wiring harness, I can't get the pressure point to disappear so the light turns off. I'll probably have to go to Audi and ask how much it costs to have the wiring checked. They'll probably connect a device to the connector and see if all the information is correct, I think.
Okay, so now that I've pressed on the wiring harness again, the light went out, so there must be a broken wire somewhere, right? I checked the connector on the pump and wiggled it around, but the light doesn't go out anymore. This is so frustrating.

Okay, one last try. So, the two-wire cable that runs from the pump to the unit ends directly at the control unit inside the ABS module and doesn't connect to the main wiring harness.

You might want to re-check the connection to the ignition switch. It's best to test the connection between fuse 9 (5A) in the fuse box and pin 4 on the main connector.

I don't have any more ideas .

Good luck, and best regards, Günni.

Hello!
Thank you for your helpful tips; I'll do the measurements tomorrow.
Okay, so far as I understand, the pump only needs the two voltage connections, two ground connections, and the connection in the cable duct that runs from the ignition switch to the pump. So, are any other wires in the duct or on the main connector needed for this? Are those wires for wheel sensors or something like that? What I can't figure out is that I moved some wires in the duct, and then the light went out.
Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the large connector on the pump? I'm trying to figure out what all the wires are for and where they go. I think there are about 8 wires besides the power and ground.
Do you perhaps have the exact voltage values that need to be present at each pin of the connector? That would be very helpful.
Okay, one more thing: I did get a different pump, but the last character of the code is different. If it's really the control unit (the pump works when connected to the positive and negative terminals), and I replace it with the new one and it's not compatible, will I get the same error message in the error memory, saying "Hydraulic pump signal outside of tolerance"? Even though the pump's code is different from the control unit, the pump is from the same year as mine, which is 1996.
Is there an easy way to just replace the control unit? Without replacing the pump, and without having to disconnect the ABS lines? There's no internal connection between the pump and the control unit, right? Only that small 2-pin cable, which is externally connected?


Thank you.
Martin.

Hello!
I took a lot of measurements today, but unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the error.
I measured the values of the spark plug with the ignition both on and off.
Ignition off.
The voltage at both positive terminals is 12.58V, measured against ground, and also measured against the positive terminal.
I will now write down the values from left to right, starting with the positive and ground terminals on the left: 4.37V, 0.01V, 0.01V, 0V, 0V, 0.01V.
Mid-point: 2.21V and 0V.
Below 0.01V 0.01V 0.02V 0.02V 0V
I left out the unused terminals.

Ignition on.
The voltage at both positive terminals is 11.98V, measured against ground, and also measured against the positive terminal.
9.11V 0.02V 0.01V 11.92V 0.02V 0.02V 0.01V
9.11V 0.01V
0.02V 0.01V 0.02V 0.01V 0V
I measured all the connections and I'm seeing almost no resistance.
But what I don't understand is why, when the cable was compressed back then, the ABS...
The light went out.

Thank you for your help.
Martin.

Does anyone have any advice?