Kaltstartproplem beim 1Z nicht gelöst *heul* | Posts 64+

I just quickly read through the glow plug check; it sounds relatively simple. I still have a 55W lamp and speaker cable. Hopefully, I can manage this and get 'enlightenment' four times tonight!

1881 wrote:

Hab mir mal eben den Glühkerzencheck durchgelesen, hört sich ja relativ simpel an. 55W Lampe und Boxenkabel habe ich noch. Hoffentlich bekomme ich das hin und bekomme heute Abend 4mal die Erleuchtung!

... + You'll get a "check engine" light if you turn on the ignition with a cold engine and the current sub-zero temperatures. This is because it needs to preheat.
If the glow plug relay or fuse is defective, then 4 good glow plugs won't help .

Best regards, Rainer.

The preheating time is significantly longer than at positive temperatures. But it doesn't matter anyway. Where exactly is the fuse for the preheating system located, and what does it look like, what color is it? I've searched but haven't found anything. Is it easy to access, and what do I need to remove to get to it?

Which car?

1881 wrote:

The preheating time is significantly longer than at +Celsius degrees. BUT it doesn't matter anyway. Where exactly is the fuse for the preheating system, and what does it look like, what color is it? I've searched but found nothing. Is it easy to access, and what do I need to remove to get to it?

Before you start removing the fuse, check if fuel is reaching the injectors during preheating.
Otherwise, see the post by haehnlein .

Best regards, Rainer.

It's a Volkswagen Golf 1.9 TDI, engine code 1Z, with 210,000 kilometers on the odometer.

What's the best way to check this without a multimeter? Could I use a 12W or 55W light bulb, connecting it to the glow plug heater and either the positive terminal (+) or ground (-)? And if that works, would everything light up properly with the preheating system?

1881 wrote:

How can I best check it? I don't have a multimeter! Can I use a 12W or 55W lamp, and connect it to the glow plug heater and either the positive (+) terminal or ground? And if so, will everything work perfectly with the preheating system?

Hi.

Disconnect the cable from all the candles and connect each candle individually (+ terminal) to the 55-watt lamp with the battery. If all the candles glow equally brightly, they are okay.

The fuse is located at the top of my main electrical panel and appears to be an oversized flat blade-type fuse in a holder.
I'm not sure if that applies to all production years.

Hi Ulf, Rainer suggested that I should first check if any power is actually reaching the candles. So, my question is: how do I do that?

I wanted to do the candle check after that.

1881 wrote:

Hi Ulf, Rainer thinks I should first check if the juice actually reaches the wicks. That's why my question is: how do I do that?

Hi.

Something like that shouldn't be the level of discourse here anymore . . .

If there's a bare spot in the candle wiring, use a test lamp or measuring device to check for continuity with ground.

If this stupid, rigid, fully insulated connector bridge is installed, disconnect a connector and measure between the contact pin and ground.

To test it, disconnect the engine temperature sensor; this will ensure that preheating is definitely activated.

Quote:

Something like that shouldn't be the level of discourse here anymore

.

Okay... but it's Christmas. I can think of some nice methods, but they're more suitable for New Year's Eve... Was there even someone on "Wetten, dass?!" who wanted to measure the voltage with their tongue?

ich hatte mal nen lehrmeister der hat dir eine spannung auf +-1v genau mit den finger gemessen. das wr eine kraft !

If the guys don't have measuring devices, then go to a hardware store and buy one of those digital gadgets for 5 or 8 euros! That should be enough for that! So guys, pay attention and a little initiative won't hurt!

Hi,

ich hab heute früh mal drauf geachtet ob bei mir die Innenraumbeleuchtung während des Vorglühens schwächer wird. Fehlanzeige, und das bei immerhin -7 °C?!?? Das Kontrollämpchen zum Vorglühn leuchtete ca 4 Sekunden und der Motor sprang auch ziemlich direkt nach dem Dreh des Schlüssels um. Merkwürdig.

Question: What determines the duration of this light's illumination? Does the computer calculate the duration based on the measured temperature, or does it remain lit until another sensor gives the 'OK' signal to start?

Tomorrow morning, I'm going to try starting the engine directly without pre-heating it first. Let's see if that makes any difference in how it starts.

zzzZZ wrote:

ich hab heute früh mal drauf geachtet ob bei mir die Innenraumbeleuchtung während des Vorglühens schwächer wird. Fehlanzeige, und das bei immerhin -7 °C?!?? Das Kontrollämpchen zum Vorglühn leuchtete ca 4 Sekunden und der Motor sprang auch ziemlich direkt nach dem Dreh des Schlüssels um. Merkwürdig.

Hi René!

It must already be dark outside; otherwise, even with a good battery, it's not that easy to see.

zzzZZ wrote:

Question: What determines the duration of this light's illumination? Does the computer calculate the duration based on the measured temperature, or does it remain lit until another sensor gives the "OK" signal to start?

To the best of my knowledge, the computer determines the duration of the preheating process based on temperature readings from the Zyko sensor. There is definitely no sensor in the combustion chamber that would provide a value, for example, when a certain temperature is reached there!
There is likely a temperature sensor in the ESP (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system to account for the temperature-dependent density of diesel fuel when calculating the mass flow rate.

Best regards, Christian.

Hi!

I tested it this morning: The AHF (presumably a heating element) takes longer to warm up than the lamp actually lights up. Tonight, I did another power test - started the engine at minus 2 degrees Celsius without any preheating: It fired right up with no hesitation!

Best regards,
Uwe

Hi!

"With the extremely low temperatures we've had recently, the car started immediately after two pre-glow cycles and didn't smoke as much (a little bit is normal anyway). It still needs a bit of cranking when the engine is completely warm and has been sitting for 2 hours (which should actually rule out a problem with the glow plug system), but that's something."

However, one thing is extremely strange:

When I briefly increase the idle speed to 1500 rpm, either with a cold or warm engine, the RPM sometimes drops back down to 1000 rpm, and during that time, the engine makes a somewhat faster, relatively low-pitched sound: "wrrum wrrum wrrum wrrum wrrum" (please don't laugh... it sounds similar to an old school bus). This condition lasts for a few seconds, and then the engine returns to its normal idle speed of 800 rpm.
@Pump specialists:

I know... it seems like I have a rather unusual problem, and unfortunately, I won't be able to use my VAG-COM diagnostic tool until next week.
What could cause such malfunctions: EDC, injection valve adjuster???

Best regards, Christian.

Hi!

Do you keep your foot on the brake pedal when the engine is revving high in neutral?

Best regards,
Uwe