Kurbelwellenrad 1Z nach einem Monat wieder ausgeschlagen | Posts 64+

Hello!
Check out the ZMS!
If the timing belt is damaged, it can cause a knocking sound throughout the entire engine, among other things.
also das KWrad
Hi there,

Hiho


mhm, luckily, I haven't had any problems so far, but what I've heard and what makes me chuckle a bit are the 'taps and dies'... on page 2 of this forum, I see the image and I'm wondering what the plan is?!? You can already see the 'ratchet marks' in the image... when you put the wheel back on, you can tighten it however you want and it will 'loosen' next point: who came up with the idea that you can screw something in at a right angle using a screw?? Okay, it's a relatively strong fine thread, but in my opinion, it's still 'wobbly stuff'...


and also one more point that might be worth considering is that the initial wheel is made of powdered metal, and the material can vary significantly depending on the manufacturing process... combined with a rough surface on the suspension, this could lead to failure. There's not much left of it after the first 2 days, as the initial tensioning is only effective for that period.


I would and will buy 2 screws, then tighten and loosen a new wheel on the KW according to the instructions, and then tighten it completely again, and finally mount it with a new screw...


Regarding the issue with powder metallurgy and setting, a larger shock absorber manufacturer, Porsche, also failed with the first suspension systems with damping force adjustment... Solution: Then, when assembling, tighten the screw, loosen it, and then tighten it again...

Besides that, there are also 'special' friction discs... they are a few hundredths of a millimeter thick and significantly increase the friction coefficient... Some manufacturers also use them between the clutch and the flywheel... They are also available in all shapes and sizes as individual components.

and who says that during the rim finishing process, the rim will eventually 'stick' in the corner or that the nose, which is supposed to create the form closure, will...

Thanks, RedR32, that's how I'll do it.
Do you know if the ZR needs to be relaxed when adjusting the ESP?

Thank you and best regards.

Timing and belt tension must be adjusted. Is this the older engine with an intermediate shaft and pump adjustable via the bracket? I think so.

Quote:

The timing on the OT (presumably referring to a camshaft or similar component) is off by 1/2 tooth relative to the locked ESP (presumably an eccentric or similar mechanism).

This is already bad, as the fit between the KW (presumably a suspension component) and the KW wheel may no longer be accurate.
Nevertheless, you can adjust this using the pump, specifically without the 15mm spike. This works better in general with the measuring device in the pump. To adjust these, you need to loosen 4 screws and rotate the pump. After the twisting, loosen and tighten the fuel lines to prevent any strain.

Hi,
Stummel, what you're writing is perfectly reasonable, but the part about the two screws is pointless.

Stummel wrote:

.... I would buy and use 2 screws, then tighten the new wheel on the KW according to the instructions, loosen it again, and tighten it completely, and finally mount it with a new screw...

The bevel gear does not become tight when loosened, but remains completely loose. That brings you back to where you were before tightening screw 1.
hg
Herbert

Hi

Not at all...


The wheel itself 'sets'... the wheel is made by pressing and sintering a handful of powder. If you over-trim the material at a low cost, reduce the pressing pressure too much, or use too coarse powder, the strength will decrease. Eventually, you will have a sintering filter... The problem is that you have to tighten the screw during assembly. However, this takes a little time. Once you simply tighten it, the torque will initially work, but after a while, when the material has set, the pre-tension will no longer be as large as planned = the transferable torque (which would otherwise be transmitted through surface pressure) decreases and more and more remains stuck on the 'nose'.


therefore, first tighten and 'set' the material, and then re-tighten...

Hi,
Where did you get the information that the spur gear is made of sintered material?
I would have expected it to be produced from a single piece of material (e.g., through forging).
hg
Herbert

One can...






At least for the gasoline-powered wheels, but I suspect there's a difference.

Some new developments from the "killer screw" front.
I have marked the KW as "OT" according to the marking.
Problem: This was not a marking, but rather a "dent" from the previous clutch replacement.
Even after turning the engine over 100 times by hand, I was unable to find any
So, I inserted a long pencil through the hole in the candle and determined the position approximately.
Then, carefully rotate the camshaft with a ring spanner so that the valve on the piston arrives at the correct position. As mentioned before, do this very gently! Therefore, I determined the OT in 2-step fine-tuning.
OT marked with this to prevent it from getting lost when the timing belt is replaced.
Once assembled, the engine has been run multiple times, and all markings have been checked repeatedly.
Engine started with a lot of sputtering and "Brrrrummm" Now it's running
Injector timing checked with VAG-COM, and voilà: Everything is within the green zone.

Only how can it be that there was no {OT MARKER} to be found?
Do the heirs avoid such trivial matters?

What also bothers me is that the timing belt pulley is running approximately 0.5-1mm out of alignment.
I'm just not sure if it was better before, since I received the car in a defective condition.
Now, the question also arises as to whether it was already leaning before, or whether my gouge tool has made it worse.

Quote:

What also bothers me is that the timing belt pulley is running approximately 0.5-1mm out of alignment.

Do you mean that the small gear is wobbling or has side play, approximately 0.5-1mm?

That would then be double to triple on the outer side of the damper. And that's not possible -- it's too much.

Personally, I consider 0.5 - 1mm of lateral deviation at the outer edge of the damper to be the absolute maximum.

Hi,

Quote:

But how does it come that there was no OT marking to be found?

Can the flywheel be installed at an angle (for older repairs)?
The OT marking is model-dependent. I have a 0. that was struck into the flywheel.
hg
Herbert

Quote:

Is it possible to install the flywheel with a slight offset (older repair)?

According to my knowledge, at VAG, the mounting holes are arranged asymmetrically, so that the flywheel can only be mounted in the correct position.

But who really knows what all the shenanigans are in a car's life?

Therefore, always clearly mark everything before disassembling, even if it seems amateurish to some.

I also still remember that from the overhaul of my car, but that was a few years ago (or 170,000 km ).
Hi
Herbert

Hello BM.

Yes, that is definitely too much.
I attached the vibration dampener and let it run, and it moved approximately 2mm sideways, indicating lateral impact.
On the back of the shock absorber, one could see the tracks left by the plastic cover, so I assume that it had already been impacted.
But it should actually have been removed with a good scraper tool
"Of course, the impact point was on the opposite side of the strut, and was used to center the vibration damper. Therefore, I experimentally placed one 0.5mm copper disc under each of two screws."
Afterwards, the vibration damper was completely balanced.
One could no longer see any side-to-side movement.
What do you mean? So, or should we completely redo everything and plan the KW Stump with VAG tools?
As I mentioned, I have carefully reviewed everything and I don't believe that further planning will improve it.

And regarding the "OT" marking, I'm just surprised that I couldn't find it anywhere. Otherwise, she should at least have known about UT.

Quote:

What do you think? So, or redo everything and plan KW Stumpf with VAG tools?

Good question. Finally, the KW (stroke length) of the entire milling process is always getting shorter, which may lead to the ZR (z-axis) running against the damping element.

It's hard to imagine that the leadership was so off in guiding the operator. It should have been obvious. Or, the thread of the KW does not run parallel to the KW.

Instead of re-drilling, I would try the following first. There is a small ridge on the groove, which is necessary for proper mounting of the shock absorber. I would remove this ridge so that the shock absorber can be rotated. Evt. he also has a "hit," so that he might compensate for this "hit" with the "hit" of the chisel.

If you want to drill, you should make sure that the drill guide is firmly and accurately parallel to the longitudinal direction of the KW. This, in turn, can only be achieved with a measuring device. The KW must be rotated during measurement, which is not easy without a ZR (presumably a jig or fixture). Everything else is probably going to go wrong, and the tip will keep getting shorter.

You have to decide for yourself. I wouldn't just compensate with washers alone.

Hi,
If the gear hub and/or the KW stub have been damaged or have excessive play, planing will not be successful. The combination of the spur gear and KW stub is designed to be precisely matched (with limitations). When tightening the screw, which exceeds the yield strength, the spur gear can be skewed. Okay, let's check it, possibly with a new crank gear.
To twist, the shock absorber needs long slots due to the asymmetrical holes. Before work, check for distortion (with the front seam on a flat surface, a ruler in different directions on the flange, and measuring the angle against the surface).
If the problem ultimately boils down to just the distance between the spur gear and the vibration damper, there is a spacer ("diamond spacer") available for certain models. Maybe that works.
hg
Herbert