Audi 2.5 AKE: White Smoke & Power Loss?

Hello everyone,

After almost 3 months of driving without any issues, the problem has returned. My Audi 2.5 AKE is experiencing a significant loss of power and is emitting a lot of white smoke from the exhaust (although not constantly - but when it does, it's quite a lot).

The smoke smells slightly of burnt oil (and the oil level has also decreased). There are no traces of oil in the coolant, nor any white residue on the oil filler cap. The mass airflow sensor (MAF) is new, and the air filter and other components have been checked for dirt and blockages. The actuator diagnosis functions correctly with VCDS, without any issues, and operates throughout the full range.

When I release the accelerator and let the car coast, it takes a very long time to respond when I reapply the gas (about 1-2 seconds). So far, there have been no error codes stored, but this morning, when I was recording the data log, I saw the first one:

Monday, January 24, 2011, 09:23:42:30671
VCDS Version: RKS 10.6.3
Data as of: 20101206.

Address 01: Engine, Label file: RKS\059-907-401-AKE.lbl
Control unit part number: 8E0 907 401 C.
Component and/or version: 2.5L V6 TDI 0000SG 0004
Encoding: 02015
Company number: WSC 63351
"One error found:"

00575 - Intake manifold pressure.
11-10 - Limit exceeded - Intermittent.

Readiness: Not available.

I did my best to create the log. Unfortunately, a consistent speed was not possible because I was too hesitant to get on the highway and instead drove through the villages.

I believe that the turbocharger is now malfunctioning. I would appreciate it if you could take a look at my log file located at /viewtopic.php?t=24745 and help me analyze it. What is the cause of the extreme difference between the desired and actual EGR values?

Thank you in advance. - Best regards, Toni.

Hello, the fact is that you have no turbocharger boost and also not enough intake air mass, therefore you cannot produce any power.

Since the AGR values are not correct, I would start by investigating that. If the AGR valve is "open," that could already be the problem. Try temporarily blocking the AGR valve with a piece of metal (instead of the gasket, JUST FOR TESTING) to see if that resolves the issue. If it does, then replacing the AGR valve will likely fix it. If not, it could be a faulty turbocharger or a clogged crankcase ventilation system. You need to carefully test each component one by one to avoid wasting money.

Did the loader make any unusual noises?

hello mserge and everyone else,

"No, the charger didn't make any unusually strange noises. The only noise I hadn't noticed before is a kind of "humming" sound at approximately 1400 RPM, or also when it's slowing down."
What concerns me is the white, oil-smelling smoke (although oil is not yet coming out of the exhaust pipes ).
If the charger isn't defective, what else could it be?

I will start with AGR, as you suggested.

Can the actuator diagnosis also work when the turbocharger is not boosting? Actually, yes, or does it?

Best, Toni.

Hello, it's POSSIBLE that the injector has so much play in the shaft that oil leaks past and is burned, but it doesn't necessarily have to be the case. That means the injector could theoretically still function while still leaking oil. You'll probably need to replace it anyway, but first, check the EGR valve, as it could also be causing the smoke.
Wie viel km hat der Motor (Lader) gelaufen? Which oil?

To test the crankcase ventilation system (PCV), drive for a bit, let the engine run, and carefully open the oil filler cap. If you hear hissing, the ventilation system is sealed and needs to be replaced or cleaned. Often, oil will then leak out at the fuel injectors on the cylinder head cover, or at another seal.

See you later.

Hello,

You're probably right about the crankcase ventilation; there's oil leaking out near the injectors on the right bank.

I'm going to temporarily disable the EGR system tonight (I'm kind of dreading the drive home). Then I'll see how the crankcase ventilation system works.

If the engine with EGR and KGE (Exhaust Gas Recirculation and Kinetic Gas Expander) starts running normally again, I would still like to have the turbo checked - but according to the thread, this is not possible with Garrett chargers.
On the STK website, they also offer replacement chargers for my motor. I've already read some threads about this in the forum, but I haven't been able to make a decision yet. Are there any positive experiences with these chargers?

Best,
Toni

P.S. Here's the answer to your question: If the engine oil hasn't been changed yet, it has been used for approximately 200,000 km with (according to the service booklet) Longlife 5W-30 oil.

Hello, one thing at a time, don't mess with everything at once.
If you think it's more likely coming from the EGR valve, then check that first; it's the easiest (the test is straightforward). If it's not the EGR, then check the turbocharger as a last resort.

If he stops smoking, there are no more error codes, and the performance is back to normal, then the turbocharger is likely still okay. I don't think it makes sense to remove it just to test it; if there's any doubt, it's better to replace it immediately.
"My loader had already reached 200,000 km when it started making strange noises while 'downshifting'. After replacing the part, everything was fine again, but it was still working..."

Okay... I'll try to calm down *g*... I'll take a few more minutes, then I'll head home and deal with things one by one, hoping to have something positive to report tonight or tomorrow morning.

Can you give me a link to the KGE (German Association of Public Sector Banks)? I've been searching here for a helpful article, but so far I've only found information about the "deckeltest" (lid test).

Sure, no problem - Best regards.

That's all there is to it; if it's clogged, you have to take it apart. It's located underneath the fuel injection lines, at the back where they come out of the fuel injection pump. You'll need to remove those lines, and then you should be able to get it out. (Although, apparently, the AKE engine has a "better" fuel filter, also called a "Cyclone filter," and I've read about some cases where even that one gets clogged.)

It's just about knowing whether it's clogged or not. If it's blowing out strongly from the lid, it's unfortunately also clogged. I would replace the entire part in your situation, but I can't give you the part numbers.

Good luck.

Hello,

Unfortunately, I have some bad news. The turbocharger is broken. Before I could start working on the KGE (likely referring to a specific engine component), I removed the air intake hose and the catalytic converter to check the bearing clearance. The radial play is approximately 2-3 mm, and the axial play is also about 1 mm (estimated). In any case, the shaft is very, very loose. Now I'm facing the question we've discussed so many times: Should I buy a new turbocharger or a rebuilt one?
I'll sleep on it.
I will still check the matter regarding the KGE.

Good night - Toni

If you use a charger from STK, you won't have any problems.

I've experienced more than once the situation where I was told to save money, but then it turned out to be nonsense.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello,

I ordered the charger from STK yesterday, and it's already being delivered today - that's great.
I also ordered the two compensators and the engine ventilation system from - these are supposed to be replaced with the new turbocharger according to the inspection report (STK).

Have you always completely cleaned the entire charge air duct after a turbocharger failure? Or does the oil eventually blow out with the exhaust (assuming the impeller blades in the turbocharger are still intact - and I don't have to search for any parts)?

Is there anything else to keep in mind? Of course, gaskets, O-rings, and self-locking nuts will also be replaced.

Best regards, and have a great weekend - Toni.

Cleaning is highly recommended! I've always done it... but those were really severe engine failures, with a lot of oil in the coolant, etc.
Ideally, after rinsing, place it in the oven for 2 hours. I've always used a compressor and heat gun, but it seems there was still flammable material inside when I started using it, so make sure it's thoroughly dried.
Best regards,

Okay, let's get to work. Thanks, and have a nice weekend.

Hello,

"Hey, is there anything on my car's engine that's relatively easy to remove , meaning without having to unscrew five other things ? I've been in the garage for the third night already."
Okay, here's a brief update with two questions at the end.
The engine oil was practically overflowing. The EGR valve didn't look as bad as I had feared – just a little bit of soot.
The turbocharger shaft or bearing is completely worn out - the shaft can be moved very easily by hand.
All the buckets are still attached to the loader - none are broken or anything like that. I haven't found any splinters anywhere either. This surprises me a little, since I drove all the way home .
Could it be that the bearing damage caused the loader to become so severely "jammed" that it no longer moved at all? However, this would have had to happen gradually, so that nothing would break.
The damage most likely occurred due to a bearing failure - not due to a foreign object - (and the VTG continued to function until the end). For these reasons, I would like to postpone the replacement of the compensators - only postpone it... not cancel it .
Or is there a trick to expanding it - because right now I still can't access it - and I don't want to remove any more parts for now. I'm already afraid that a part will be left behind .

Best,
Toni

Quote:

Do you always clean the entire charge air path after a turbocharger failure

?

It depends on what the loader looks like. When it comes to fragments, shavings, or similar materials, extremely thorough cleaning is required.
If the loader just has worn-out bearings and is leaking oil... let the oil leak out, it's not a big deal. If there's any oil residue stuck somewhere, you might as well get rid of the whole thing.

Best regards, Rainer.