Diesel Mechanic: PÖL Tuning Experts

Hi,

Now that I have a PÖL filling station at home and my 1Y Golf has already been driven over 5,000 km on PÖL fuel, I want to convert our second car, the Audi A6 2.5 TDI (AEL), to run on PÖL as well.
(I will be using a blend of 20-30% diesel - PIESEL).

I won't discuss the modifications to the fuel filter and lines that are necessary for the PÖL system here (as that would be more relevant to a different topic).

Since I would prefer to drive without having to refuel frequently, and the injectors have already been used for 180,000 km, a few items in the "Diesel Schrauber Shop" caught my eye:

1 x Fuel-saving tuning for Audi A6.
1 x Plant oil adjustment.
5 x Tuning injector nozzle, 0.216mm, for VP37.
Do the 0.216 nozzles fit the AEL?

If I then additionally add a plant-based motor oil (Plantomot), a small amount of plant oil entering the motor oil shouldn't make a difference anymore.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

@Rainer K.: Do you also sell new needle lifters for the AEL, or do I have to go to the official dealer?


Thank you in advance for your information.

dakoal

Hello 'neighbor' .

Since I would prefer to drive in a one-tank operation.

I hope you're driving longer distances so that the engine mostly runs while warm, and isn't turned off immediately after it has warmed up.

After Stockerau, it is definitely too short .

If I then additionally fill in a motor oil based on plant oil (Plantomot)

Unfortunately, it does not have a 505(b)(2) approval.

A small amount of PÖL in the MÖL (great sentence) shouldn't make a difference anymore.


The risk of motor oil polymerization decreases, but the oil quality definitely deteriorates with the introduction of sludge.

5 x Tuning injector nozzle 0.216mm VP37.


I would recommend a larger high-pressure pump component over larger nozzles. The latter can actually worsen atomization, which isn't ideal to begin with when using fuel oil.

Furthermore, I would recommend a filter heater; it will help you avoid problems in the winter, but I assume you already know about those.

Best regards,
Nebelwerfer (who doesn't live 12km away).

Hi dakoal,

Well, larger nozzles aren't necessarily the best setup for tuning, unless you want to achieve around 180 horsepower with your engine .
Certainly, new nozzles are a good idea with this mileage, and increasing the opening pressure would also be beneficial.
Okay, so we're getting 5 brand new nozzle sets. The NHG (presumably a machine or component) will also receive new nozzles and small parts.

In this case, I don't think a larger HD part is necessary; the pump is already great as it is.

However, series injectors with increased opening pressure, combined with a modified control unit and sensible preheating of the fuel, should already provide a very good foundation.

Best regards, Rainer.
PS: You have a private message.

In this case, I don't think anything about a larger HD part is necessary; the pump is already great as it is.

No, what I meant was that a larger high-pressure component would be more useful if you want more power without extended injection times, and that's especially true when using oil injection.

Hi.

If I then additionally add a motor oil based on vegetable oil (Plantomot), a small amount of vegetable oil entering the motor oil (that's a great sentence) shouldn't matter anymore.
Even if this additive had a VW approval, it wouldn't protect you from polymerization. There is no guarantee against polymerization when using additives. However, I know that some people add it to their TDI engines .

Hi,

Thank you in advance for the information.

@Rainer K., I'll get in touch with you today.


I don't really want bigger nozzles; the ones I have are fine (I'm sure I'll get good advice).
He has more torque at lower RPMs than horsepower at higher RPMs.
The car is rarely revved above 3000 RPM anymore (it's been downgraded to a "diaper bomber").
My wife drives the Audi to your children's activities/shopping, etc.

I just want him to pee, but in a way that gets a lot of attention.

Since the nozzles are already in the sand, I can invest a little more now.

@Nebelwerfer_TDI "PM"


Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards," or "Sincerely,".

dakoal

I just want him to pee, but with a high WAF.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'WAF???'

This is a question mark followed by the abbreviation 'WAF'. It is unclear what the question is referring to, but it could be related to the topic of web application firewalls (WAFs).

Hi,

Woman acceptance factor (I hope that's the correct spelling)


Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards," or "Sincerely,".

dakoal

Pay attention - or teach your significant other: a TDI should never run for extended periods at low RPM, or without load, especially when using biodiesel (even when warm); After just 5 minutes at low RPM, you'll only need to smell the exhaust to understand why; and what you smell back there is un/partially burned fuel, which deposits on the cylinder walls .

Okay,

I just received a list of the necessary parts from Rainer.
This evening, a decision will be made about whether or not I'll do it.


Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards," or "Sincerely,".

dakoal

I was almost thinking the same thing about the WAF .
Nebelwerfer has already said almost everything, but I would also make sure that the engine, when it is still cold (i.e., with a cold ESP), is not revved significantly higher than 2000 rpm (or max. 2500) for an extended period. Your bank balance and the ESP will thank you for it .

Whatever you decide to do tonight, I think new ESDs (electrostatic discharge devices) are a must, and adjusting the pole alignment to match the pole ratio wouldn't hurt either. Cutting corners on anything else would be a false economy.

PS: By the way, are you experiencing multiple orgasms, or is your AEL still a virgin?

One can smell each other.

if it is still cold (i.e., cold ESP), it should not be revved significantly higher than 2000 rpm (or max. 2500) for an extended period.

I actually assume that's the case, even with a diesel engine. Well, then there's the WAF (weight and axle load) to consider, and the bill could look completely different *hiding and running away*.

Hi,

@Arno: The AEL is still undetermined.

And that 2000 RPM thing is obvious, my dear already does that, she's used to it from her old Golf. With the "Pöl" modification, the old Golf had a tremendous amount of torque in the low RPM range (or maybe it was the new injectors).


Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards," or "Sincerely,".

dakoal

Hello,

I've been driving my Ducato for about 35,000 km with a full tank of PÖL.
I would advise against using the Plantomot oil and would instead recommend a higher viscosity oil, such as a 5W50 or even a 10W60.

Whether the fuel injectors need to be replaced is still uncertain. Why not just give it a try?
How about we go for a round of 'Pölen'? Then you'll see what condition the nozzles are in.

I have to say, I'm just used to the Ducato.
It's a TDI, but it runs very well on vegetable oil, despite having 185,000 km.

Best regards, Rodion.

Hi,

Okay, I've taken the nozzles out now. I think they're due for replacement, both with and without the nozzle insert.
Yes, the one at the top in the picture was "wet" during disassembly, and oily all the way up to the cone.
The NHG nozzle is completely carbonized.






Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards," or "Sincerely,".

dakoal

Hi!

The Pölthema issue is essentially resolved, following the smear campaign in the media ('10 times more carcinogenic') and the decision to implement a phased-in taxation (full tax rate starting in 2012) (which can be read here: www.poeltech.de).

IMO, it's not worth investing heavily in further modifications.