VW Alloy Wheel Balancing Service

Hi.

I have the original "Orlando" alloy wheels on my G3.

All original aluminum rims can be balanced using "adhesive weights" and do not require the "stick-on weights" that are typically used for accessory aluminum rims.

Are these wheel weights the same ones that are used on steel rims?

My tire installer, Fuzzi, balanced the wheels using adhesive weights, and now the Golf drives like a kangaroo on acid.

I wanted chrome valve stems, but he said he didn't have the right ones. His were only for steel rims.

I don't want to insult anyone, I just want to drive calmly on the highway at 120 km/h or more, and not feel like I'm sitting on a Bosch hammer.

"Thank you."
m;

Hi.

I would, if you have the option, prefer to use stick-on weights. Unfortunately, I can only use the adhesive ones. In my case, the tire shop didn't properly clean the areas where the adhesive weights were supposed to be applied. After a longer highway drive, I randomly noticed at a rest stop that a weight had come off and was resting comfortably on the brake disc on the rear wheel . If they are applied correctly, they hold reasonably well, but otherwise, they are more likely to come off, so you should check from time to time to see if they are all still there .

dieselmartin wrote:

... Are these wheel weights the same ones that are used on steel rims? ...

No. (see image: aluminum on the left, steel on the right)
The weights for steel rims are placed in a curved shape, while the weights for aluminum rims are laid flat.

Quote:

My tire installer, Fuzzi, balanced the wheels using adhesive weights, and now the Golf drives like a kangaroo on acid.

"Then he should do it right this time. Internal wheel balancing for aluminum rims is usually not a defect, and it's often even better. My tires always run very smoothly."

ampac wrote:

... If they are glued on properly, they hold on reasonably well, but otherwise, not really, and you should check from time to time to see if they are all still there.

Unfortunately, that's not quite right.
The centrifugal force presses the adhesive weights even more firmly against the rim. Therefore, losing these weights is normal and even more difficult. Unless the person who installed them did a very poor job. However, they would also use spoked weights in that case.
So far, I have lost more counterweights than adhesive weights.

EDIT: Often, various tire shops are unable to properly operate their balancing machines for internal wheel balancing. This can lead to significant problems with the internal wheel balancing, causing the car to behave as described by Martin.
Last year, I had to have my tires balanced seven times... until I went back to my usual dealer... and then it finally worked properly... unfortunately.

The centrifugal force presses the adhesive weights even more strongly against the rim. Therefore, losing these weights is normal and even more difficult. Unless the person who installed the tire has completely botched the job. However, they would also use spoked weights in that case.

It's not entirely correct either. Because if they aren't properly glued to the rim, water can seep underneath them, and eventually, gravity will pull them off when the centrifugal force isn't strong enough . The adhesive areas should be free of grease, but if the person installing the tires only cleans them halfway and also uses a dirty and oily rag, it's likely to fail. This is especially true if you don't do everything yourself .

Okay, I don't know if this will help you, but on my GIII VR6, I have alloy wheels (15"), and they need to be fitted with balancing weights! The space between the brake caliper and the adhesive weight is not sufficient, even with the specially thin weights (the weight that sticks out the most). In that case, the weight rubs against the caliper. Check if there's even enough space for adhesive weights on your car. You don't want your car to be bouncing due to improperly balanced weights.

Generally, balancing a shaft to 0 with hammer weights is easier than with adhesive weights. However, if it's already balanced to 0, it doesn't matter which type of weight is used, and neither should cause any problems.

I once had a set of new tires that had to be returned because of radial runout (outside of tolerance). Then, I had a car that needed to be precision balanced (balancing with the wheels mounted, essentially balancing the drive shaft/brake disc/wheel hub).

Hi,

There's enough space because I turned the wheels before I let the car down.

Furthermore, the rims with tires of the same brand (also Conti PremiumContact) performed perfectly for two summers.

Unfortunately, I also had issues with my steel rims and winter tires.

Only now, when the aluminum wheels received new tires, did the vibrations start.

I'm afraid I might have to tell my tire repair guy to scrap the tires and throw them at him, because I actually have too personal a relationship with him (it's harder to file a complaint with a friend than with an anonymous, large workshop ).

I'm going to have him install the tires on the tractor today so he can try them out. If he can't get them on, I'll have them mounted somewhere else, and if they still don't fit, I'll return the tires.

m;

Okay, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.

We weighed something yesterday... I didn't see all the values, but there were already errors of 10 grams.

It seems to be okay now... Although I don't like to use "nachwuchten" (fine-tuning), so I'll just add a little bit here and there, maybe 5-10 grams.

Well, the main thing is that the tractor is running again (and starting).

Thank you for clarifying the different weights.
m;

dieselmartin wrote:

So. There were already 10 grams of errors in it. What I don't like is adding weight *after* the balancing is done, just by sticking a few grams here and there.

Therefore, when I encounter imbalance, I lower the weights and try again. I absolutely hate the idea of permanently sealing anything. It also needs to reach zero with just two weights.

If the tires were properly balanced beforehand, it's possible that you were a little too aggressive with the gas or brakes immediately after the change, which caused the tire to shift slightly on the rim. I always drive a little more cautiously for the first few hundred kilometers because it has happened to me before.

Oops.

Constant use of the accelerator and brake pedals could be the cause.
I've definitely been cut off a few times on the road.

Looking at the winter tires I used for one winter, you can clearly see the torque of my truck, because they are noticeably worn down (after just one season) on the front.

Damn TDI Damn torque

m;

Well... unfortunately, I've already had contact with someone who essentially makes mounting tires their profession. This person was not familiar with the meaning of the color markings on the tire sidewall.
Well, they probably introduced those rules after his training.

However, even when I'm careful, I've sometimes had to balance motorcycle tires quite a bit. In those cases, I have to loosen them again and rotate them slightly.


Honestly, I've also thought about it, but I can't quite believe that there would be relative movement between the tire and the rim. If that were the case, wouldn't the connection between the tire and the rim completely break at the first slight exceeding of the holding force, and wouldn't the rim start rotating *within* the tire?

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Honestly, I've also thought about it before, but I can't quite believe that there would be relative movement between the tire and the rim. If that were the case, _speculation mode_, wouldn't the connection be completely broken at the first slight exceeding of the holding force between the tire and the rim, and wouldn't the rim rotate inside the tire?

Okay, I promise, I'll try it this year. You just need a marking on the rim and tire, and a balancing machine. I think a twisting motion is possible, especially with alloy rims, particularly if a lot of grease was used. I don't believe the tire rotates infinitely compared to the rim. It would definitely take a significant moment for the tires to lose traction and start spinning. Does that moment last for a very short time?

Herr Antje wrote:

It takes a rather intense moment to get the tires to grip the road, and the tires shouldn't spin. Is that moment very short?} Hmm, but kinetic friction is generally "weaker" than static friction. Translation: Once something slips, it won't stop until the applied force significantly decreases or the momentum is dissipated. Therefore, a tire could,

theoretically, continue to roll on the road during a full stop (without ABS), but spin on the locked rim until the car comes to a complete stop.
Unless the friction heat between the tire and the rim increases the grip to such an extent that the tire re-adheres and then continues to slide on the road surface...

Hi.

Could it be that the tires produced at the end of 2004 and now being used had to be "broken in" before they could be properly balanced?

The production date bothered me from the beginning, but as far as I know, as a customer, there's nothing I can do about it.
Let me check until when tires are considered new.

m;

I could only find this quickly... maybe there's something more general available now.

Quote:

Tires are no longer new after a long storage period. When buying new tires, customers should not be sold tires from old stock. After 2 years of storage, tires are no longer considered to be in new condition, regardless of whether they were stored properly or not. The District Court of Worms (case number: 1 C 1050/91) ruled in favor of a disappointed tire buyer who had ordered 4 new winter tires from a dealer. Only after the tires had been mounted, installed, and the wheels balanced, did the buyer discover, based on the DOT number on the tire sidewall, that at least 3 of these tires were already more than 2 years old. The dealer refused to accept the tires back and refund the purchase price. He argued that the tires were not defective. The expert called in by the Worms District Court confirmed, after consulting technical literature and thoroughly questioning the tire manufacturer, that a physical change had occurred in the purchased tires due to their two-year storage, meaning that the tires no longer possessed the quality of new tires. The expert even assumed that the tires' roadworthiness had been impaired. The court concluded that, as a result of the long storage period, the tires no longer possessed the quality of new tires as stipulated in the contract. It granted the buyer the right to rescind the purchase agreement

.

Hello,

According to this, a tire that is 5 years old is still considered to be in like-new condition.
http://www.reifenpresse.de/CDML007/de/gast/fs_aktuell2.php?t=q&tk=&RecID=2233

However, I wouldn't want to have a tire that old.
I wouldn't have any concerns about a tire that has been stored for 1 year.
What's more important to me is that all the tires were manufactured within the same timeframe.
Who knows what changes have been made to the mixtures or the construction within a year?

Best regards,

Frank.