Loosen pulley/vibration damper?

Hello everyone.

I want to change the timing belt on Saturday.

I have a question regarding the removal of the four Allen screws (6mm) on the pulley/vibration damper.

How can I prevent the crankshaft and pulley from rotating when loosening the four Allen screws, and later when tightening them to 40 Nm?

Where are the payment options?
(Disconnect the fuel injection pump rotor, engage 5th gear, use an impact wrench - I don't have one.)
hold the crankshaft bolt.

What's the best way to proceed to avoid problems (e.g., a stripped Allen screw)?
What are your experiences?
Please provide some tips.

Thank you very much.
hello

Jarek

/MAHAG 4 new Allen screws, €3.34 each.

"I can usually remove the Allen screws without any special tools, because the engine's compression provides some resistance. I always use a new, sharp Allen key and apply a good amount of force when turning."

"If the Allen key is slightly worn, it can strip the screw head and slip out." If a screw ever gets stripped, I use a multi-tooth wrench that fits it just right and tap it with a hammer. It works great!

Jarek wrote:

How can I proceed so that the crankshaft, along with the pulley, does not rotate when loosening the 4 Allen screws, and later when tightening them with 40 Nm?

Hi,

Just let him rotate it if he wants: unscrew the disc before you turn it to the alternate position - and screw it back on only after all the precision work is done .

Hi Ulf,

Since I don't have a lift or a pit, I have to remove the right wheel so I can access the screws/washer.
Jack up the car, remove the wheel, the car is now supported on blocks on the right side.
-
I put the car in gear, and as I turn the key, the crankshaft starts to rotate, but the car slips off the jack.
-If the crankshaft came loose, the crankshaft would still rotate, and I could slip off the Allen wrench.

It might work, but it could also backfire.
I want to be on the safe side.

Thank you and goodbye.
Jarek.

Hi!
I don't have a lift either, so I have to work with stands. To remove them, I use a REALLY GOOD Allen wrench (very important, because they can easily strip). Then I put the bike in first gear and have someone hold the brake. This works pretty well, because the motor can only move as much as the motor mounts allow. Tightening them, however, isn't fun, especially on a PD model. Make sure to buy new screws.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

Yesterday, I loosened the four screws of the vibration damper.

Use a 19mm socket (12-point, not 6-point) for the central crankshaft bolt, and use an extension to reach the driveshaft. It's actually quite easy with the right tools, some rust remover, and gentle taps on the Allen key to make sure it really grips.

It's impossible to describe what happens when an Allen screw becomes stripped.

Regards,
Master craftsman.

It's impossible to describe what happens when an Allen screw becomes stripped....

Then use a Torx or multi-tooth wrench .

Quote:

Use a 19mm socket (12-point, not 6-point) for the central crankshaft bolt, and use an extension to reach the driveshaft.

Well, the central screw is already a sensitive issue, and I would try to put as little stress on it as possible. Otherwise, when tightening the Allen screws, a loosening torque acts on the central screw. And those little things don't really come loose easily with their 90-degree rotation. Especially since the drive shaft is certainly not designed to withstand bending.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

Impact wrench with hex socket attachment

You can loosen and tighten it (with a delicate touch!!!) without much twisting. Otherwise, try: 5. Shift into gear and have an assistant press the brake.

However, I would remove the central screw (also known as the kill screw) and replace it with a new one at the same time. If you have everything stripped, then you can also use a vise to deal with a stuck internal screw .

It's impossible to describe what happens when an Allen screw becomes stripped...


'It's not that bad - I actually had a similar issue recently on a T4, but it was the inner bolt on the water pump. I simply cut off the head of the bolt, and once the pulley was removed, I used a 1 mm cutting disc to create a slot in the remaining threaded portion, and then I was able to unscrew it using a flathead screwdriver after applying some rust remover.' You can actually very easily secure the WaPu (water pump) by inserting an Allen key through the holes of the already loosened and removed screws, and then hooking it onto the casting.