Timing belt replacement for transversely mounted PD engine (Articles)

Timing belt replacement for a VW Golf 1J with a pump-injector (ASZ) engine.


Before tackling this project, it seems wise to carefully check the completeness of all available tools, as well as any replacement parts that have been acquired. To help answer any questions you may have, please read this report thoroughly, all the way to the end!

Required tools:

- Crankshaft locking tool (not essential, but makes the job easier if you can borrow one).
- Awl (a drill bit will work instead).
- Depending on the clamping element, a clamping plate is required (this is included with the new clamping elements).
- Tool for turning the tensioner pulley; an Allen key will also suffice here.
- A 5mm drill bit for locking the belt tensioner (not essential, but useful).
- Hexagonal Allen key, preferably of high quality.
- 16mm and 18mm nut sizes (may not be included in every socket set - check).
- 18mm and 19mm ring wrenches for turning the camshaft and crankshaft.
- Standard Torx screws for VW plastic parts (e.g., underbody panels, bumpers).
- Pliers specifically designed for loosening the VW clamps used to secure the air ducts on the intake side leading to the turbocharger.
- Otherwise, just standard tools like a ratchet and screwdriver.
- To check the synchronization angle, a diagnostic tool such as VCDS is helpful.



Parts needed:

- Water pump (optional, but recommended).
- 4 mounting screws for the pulley (it's worth it to have them).
- Oil filter / oil / air filter, and if you like, diesel filters.
- Timing belt kit; I suggest replacing the tensioner pulley as well.
o Version A: Contitech CT1028 models K2 and K4.
o Version B: Contitech CT1028 K3 or VAG 038 198 119 A.
(Versions apply: A up to engine number 115000, B from 115001 onwards.)
- optional: if you don't already have them, 4 good quality hose clamps for the DIFI.
- optional: large hose clamp for connecting to the intake manifold - turbocharger.
- optional: new flat belt (ribbon belt); mine still looked good, and these things are expensive!
- optional: G12plus coolant, approximately 3 liters, because it's difficult to completely drain the old fluid cleanly.

Required materials/tools.

- Ideally, a workshop with a lift and an engine crane would be best; otherwise, you might need more time depending on your preferences.

Required time:

- It took me about 7 hours, but I was alone and stopped to take photos and rest. Fit people can probably do it in 5 hours, but I would recommend allowing a larger time window because there are often minor issues that can eat up your time.


Okay, go ahead:

After jacking up the car, I started by removing the wheels and wheel arches. I completely removed the wheel arches to verschandeln behind them, although it's not strictly necessary; on the front, simply loosening the bumper is sufficient on the left side. On the right side, complete removal is recommended (according to the manual, this step can be skipped, but in my case, everything was so tight that I wouldn't have been able to access the upper coolant hose connection otherwise).
Dazu die Schrauben im Radhaus lösen. Danach kommt die Stoßstange an die Reihe. Hierzu den Motorhaubenentriegelungshebel aus seiner Verankerung lösen und herausziehen, dann den Grill vorsichtig lösen. Der ist nur eingehangen, über dem VW Zeichen auf die Haltenase drücken und abnehmen. Dann die Schrauben von der Stoßstange lösen, oben unter dem Grill befinden sich fünf, zwei weitere jeweils unter dem linken und rechten Lufteinlassgitter. SCarefully remove the bumper by pushing it forward. (CAUTION: Disconnect the plug from the temperature sensor located in the lower left corner. On vehicles with headlight washers, lift and detach the covers.)

Okay, now let's remove the right headlight assembly. It's held in place by four screws. Carefully disconnect the connector.
Now, the air intake system needs to be disassembled. First, remove the aluminum pipe that runs from the air filter to the turbocharger (important because of the engine mount removal). It's secured with two screws (one below the EGR valve and one on the top of the engine cover). The clamp at the bottom of the turbocharger is quite difficult to access. Also, disconnect the vacuum hoses attached to it and remove the crankcase ventilation hose.Then disconnect the pressure-side connection from the turbocharger to the intercooler, and then remove the underbody protection panel on the lower right side. I suggest properly sealing the openings of the turbocharger.

Now is the time to drain the coolant from the vehicle (only necessary when changing the water pump). There is a drain plug located on the lower left side of the radiator. In addition, I have loosened the coolant hose at the oil-water heat exchanger. This will result in approximately 4.5 liters of coolant being drained.

Anschließend wird der Wasserbehälter ausgebaut, dazu die beiden Verbindungsleitungen und den Stecker abziehen. Danach den Servoölbehälter schon mal losschrauben, den DIFI abschrauben, die Leitungen abnehmen und geeignet verschließen. (ich habe die motorseitigen Leitungen abgenommen, den DIFI mit Zuleitung oberhalb des Federdomes abgelegt und die motorseitigen Leitungen auf dem Motor befestigt. Dann den Waschwasserbehälter ausbauen. Bei Scheinwerferreinigungsanlage die vordere Pumpe vom Stecker lösen und die Wasserleitung trennen. DThe same on the back.

Now, you can also detach the intercooler piping from the bypass valve towards the intercooler and remove it (be careful, as the cable for the MAP sensor is attached to it).

After that, you can remove the oil cooler, although it's not necessary; I cleaned mine once, but there was only about 20 ml of oil inside, so it's not really worth it.

Now, loosen the serpentine belt. To do this, use a 17mm wrench to move the lever towards the front of the vehicle and secure it in place with a 5mm drill bit through the holes. The belt can then be removed. If desired, you can remove the tensioner by unscrewing it at three points (this is not necessary but provides more space).

Remove the upper timing belt cover (using two clips).

Now, remove the pulley. To do this, take off the rubber cover and loosen the four screws with a size 6 Allen key: WARNING, these screws are extremely soft and prone to stripping. I managed to get three of them out, but the fourth one immediately became rounded. The simplest solution is to carefully tap in a larger Torx bit and hope for the best. It worked for me, otherwise it will take longer.

Loosen the screws under the timing belt cover.

Jetzt den Motor gescheit an einen Kran hängen, die Zugöse oberhalb der Lima erschien mir geeignet, auf ausreichende Sicherheit achten. Das ganze auf Zug bringen und den Motor etwas anheben. Dann zuerst den karosserieseitigen Dämpfer abschrauben mit 16er und 18er Nuss, wenn ausreichend gesichert, abnehmen. Danach den Motor noch etwas weiter anheben und die erste Schraube vom Motorenhalter abschrauben, dann absenken und die anderen beiden. Geht recht eng zu. Nun wird es etwas kniffeliger, denn der Halter muss raus: Motor wieder anheben und das Lager nach hinten unten herausoperieren. It will work out, even if it doesn't seem like it at first.

There it is, the timing belt, right in front of you.

Okay, let's get started. Please note: the tension roller is already relaxed; this unit is...
the original one and cannot be turned with an Allen key (where the arrow is).
(Otherwise, this is where the Allen wrench opening is located).

Nun Kurbelwelle im Uhrzeigersinn drehen, und nur im Uhrzeigersinn bis die Markierung an einem der Zähne etwa in der 11 Uhr Stellung steht, dann versuchen den Zahnriemenstopp einzusetzen und ganz langsam in die Arretierposition weiterdrehen. Nun schauen ob die Nockenwelle auf OT steht, dazu ist am rechten oberen Rand der hinteren Zahnriemenabdeckung eine Markierung 4Z und die Nasen des Nockenwellenrades für den Hallgeber sollten mit dieser fluchten. Wenn nein, eine weitere Umdrehung der Kurbelwelle und wieder festsetzen. Nun sollte auch der Absteckstift in etwa auf 8 Uhr eingesteckt werden können. Make sure everything is secured, then loosen the tensioner pulley screw and release the tension on the tensioner pulley towards the interior of the machine. Loosen the idler pulley and remove the entire assembly.

Half-time!

Anyone who wants can now change the water pump here; it involves removing three screws to replace it.

Loosen the camshaft wheel slightly on all three screws and rotate it fully clockwise until it hits the stop (the locating pin should still be in place).

Install the new tensioner and idler pulley, place the timing belt on, ensuring it doesn't kink or twist. Start by aligning it with the camshaft, then over the tensioner pulley, idler pulley, crankshaft, and finally to the water pump.

Once everything is in the correct position, adjust the tensioner (so that its hook engages securely within the engine housing) until the marking (arrow) is centered in the window. Then tighten to 20 Nm + 45 degrees; this is acceptable for both the tensioner and the idler roller screw. Use an 18mm wrench to rotate the camshaft until the markings align with the "4Z" arrow, centering it. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 25 Nm.

Alternatively, if a crankshaft stop is not available:
Auch hier die OT Position anfahren. Dabei an der Nockenwellenmarkierung orientieren und den Kurbelwellen OT am Schaufenster des Anlasserritzels kontrollieren. Dazu sollte die Schlagmarke exakt mittig im Schaufenster stehen (bei der Verwendung des Kurbelwellenstops steht sie etwas früher ca. 2° bis 3°. Woher diese Diskrepanz kommt kann ich nicht sagen. Wenn diese Position erreicht ist, die Nockenwelle auf 8 Uhr Position mit einem Bohrer abstecken, dabei darauf achten, dass er bis in die Bohrung des Zylinderkopfes ragt. Nun auch hier den Riemen abnehmen, die Schrauben des Nockenwellenrades lösen, dieses voll auf Anschlag (entgegen Uhrzeigersinn) drehen, neuen Riemen auflegen, spannen und danach die Kurbelwelle zwei Umdrehungen drehen und die OT’s überprüfen. Wenn everything is correct, including the timing belt tension, which depends on the assembly process.

Now, remove everything from the engine stand (the centering pin and crankshaft stop). Then, rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and lock it again, and double-check all settings. I did this three times; you always have some concerns. Also, pay attention to the tensioner pulley and its tension!

And now, put all these parts back into the car where they belong. I first attached the lower covers, then the engine mount, and released the engine from the crane. Then, the intercooler piping, the intake side of the turbocharger, the power steering reservoir, the coolant reservoir, the windshield washer reservoir... everything should find its place again.

When everything is assembled, and the oil change, which ideally was done beforehand, is complete, things get interesting. But if you've done everything correctly, and I assume you have, you'll hear the engine running as before after a short turn of the key (I also replaced the fuel injector, so I let the pre-pump run for a while beforehand).

Tips on the side:
It doesn't hurt to replace the intercooler connection hoses with better seals. I used Teflon seals; I've had good experiences with them. Make sure the clamps don't break and equip the fuel injector with proper hose clamps.

Summary - Disclaimer
This is an experience report that can be used as a guide. These are my experiences, and they do not constitute a guarantee of completeness. I also assume no liability for accuracy. The purpose is to show, as in other reports, that the replacement is not a big problem. It is feasible for everyone with sufficient mechanical skills. If you have never changed the oil or done any other work on a car before, don't try to replace the timing belt right away.
For everyone else: Don't be afraid; the only things you really need are time and space. Especially if you lack precise knowledge about the used timing belt kit, it is not advisable to start this operation on a Saturday afternoon and then give up halfway through.

See also:
/viewtopic.php?t=10515
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate into English. Just paste it here, and I will give you the translation.If everything is correct, including the timing belt tension, then it's time to move on to the assembly process.Now, remove everything from the timing casing (including the locking pin and crankshaft stop). Then, rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and lock it again, and double-check all the settings. I've done this three times; you always have some concerns. Also, pay attention to the tensioner pulley and its tension!And now, it's time to put all this stuff back into the car, which is currently scattered around. I started by screwing on the lower covers, then attached the engine mount and released the engine from the crane. Next, I installed the intercooler piping, the intake side of the turbocharger, the power steering reservoir, the coolant reservoir, the windshield washer fluid reservoir... everything needs to find its place again.Once everything is assembled and the oil change, which ideally should have been done beforehand, is complete, things get interesting. But if everyone has done everything correctly – and I assume they have – after a short turn of the key, the engine will sound as good as new (I also replaced the fuel pump, so I ran the priming pump for a bit beforehand).}Tips on the side:}It's not a bad idea to replace the seals on the intercooler piping with better ones. I used Teflon seals and had good results. Make sure the clamps don't break, and use proper hose clamps for the distributor.Summary - Risk Management / Mitigation.If you have never changed the oil or performed any other work on a car before, don't try to replace the timing belt right away.For everyone else: Don't worry, all you really need is time and space. It's especially important not to start this operation on a Saturday afternoon if you don't have a complete understanding of the timing belt kit being used, as it could lead to having to stop halfway through.See also:I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.