Loader Problems: How to Diagnose G2 TD Issues

Okay, so...
I have a Golf GTD with a charge air cooler, an auxiliary oil cooler, and a Garrett turbocharger (part number 466534-0005, which, according to Google, is a TBO218).
Besides that, I also have a Jetta 2 TD with a KKK turbocharger without an intercooler, so it's a JR series model. (That's my wife's car.)
(New DiFi each time)

Yesterday, I drove my Jetta for the first time in a while, and I noticed that it accelerates much better and has a higher top speed than the Golf.
When it comes to the Golf, it reaches its limit at 160 km/h (156 km/h according to the navigation system), while the Jetta goes far beyond that, reaching 180 km/h on the speedometer, but there was still room to accelerate .

The Golf has never been significantly faster (since I bought it two years ago), and it never bothered me in city driving, but now I want to know what's causing it.

Initially, I suspected the ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) module, but before I replace it, I want to know if the problem might be related to the charger. And if so, how could I check that?

(Ladedruck Anzeige habe ich noch nicht, ist bestellt) Wie sieht es mit dem Schlauch zur LDA der Pumpe aus, sollte, wenn abgezogen, dort im Stand nicht ein Überdruck zu spüren sein, beim Gasgeben? Oder geht das nur unter Last? Beim Golf ist jedenfalls kein Druck zu spüren, wenn ich im Stand Gas gebe. NoSure.

Wie ist das mit dem Gestänge des Laders von der Dose zum Wastegate. (erstmal muß ich sagen, dass ich das beinahe nicht gefunden hätte, das ist ja total tief unten verbaut, das kann man nur ertasten ), sollte man das von Hand bewegen können? Bei mir geht da garnix, sitzt bombenfest. KanCan a man be tested?

Okay, the oil consumption is extremely low for both vehicles (1 liter between oil changes, up to 7500 km).

I would be grateful for any tips on how I can track down the cause of the performance issue. Since both cars are parked outside, it would be possible to swap parts. However, both cars are driven daily, so please avoid suggestions like 'just swap the engine' .

Any ideas?

euro

First, check if the charging line has any leaks and if the pump is properly adjusted.

How do they both start?

Best, Tom.

The Golf always starts immediately, while the Jetta only starts when it's cold. When the Jetta is warm, the starter motor has to run for about 3 seconds. But both cars always start on the first try.

euro

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Hi Euro,"

Have you adjusted the amount of fuel and the boost pressure?

If the engine has a poor warm start, I would only perform a compression test once to rule out a possible cause. How many miles has the engine run? What type of air filter does it have?

Is the transmission long enough to handle the extra power you want? Or can the engine still rev up to the limiter in the highest gear?

Is the entire gas path, from the compressor via the intercooler to the combustion chamber, and on the other side, from the combustion chamber to the turbine, completely gas-tight, or could it be leaking somewhere? Can you hear the turbocharger while driving?

Questions upon questions...

When the engine is idling, even at slightly higher RPMs without a load, no air escapes from the LDA hose. This only happens above the turbo's boost threshold, and only when the engine is under reduced load. But even if air does reach the LDA, it doesn't necessarily mean that the ESP will release the excess pressure.

The wastegate linkage can be difficult to move by hand. If it's stuck, you'll experience more boost until the turbocharger overspins and fails. To check it, apply pressure to the wastegate actuator. If the linkage hasn't moved at 2.5 bar, it's definitely stuck, or the "tuner" might have been crazy.

Smoky greetings.
Peter.

Hello!

I used to own a 2-series GTD myself.
It was also exactly 160, which surprised me a lot.
However, I must mention that I bought it with a defective gearbox back then.
and I installed a used transmission. To this day, I don't know if it was the right transmission, and I'll probably never find out. Or maybe you can tell me...

"Anyway, the GTD should have a tachometer; take a look at where it is when you're in 5th gear at 160 km/h."
"Mine was right at the rev limiter, and with a different gearbox, it would definitely have been much faster because it could have reached 160 km/h even with only three-quarters of the accelerator pedal pressed."

First of all, thank you for the responses.

It's definitely not the transmission; both the Golf and the Jetta have the same 4T transmission.
At 160 km/h, both cars are rotating at approximately 4000 RPM, but the Golf doesn't seem to want to accelerate further, while the Jetta would (even with my more conservative driving style) continue to accelerate into the red zone.

Yesterday, I removed the LDA caps from both sides and checked the membranes; they were both okay. However, I feel like the Golf has more power now. I haven't pushed it to its limits yet, but it feels like it accelerates faster.
Maybe the stylus was stuck.

'My boost pressure gauge arrived today. Once I install it, I'll post the turbocharger readings from my Golf here.'

I'm still looking for a suitable location for the LD display, and I would also appreciate any advice on the best way to route the hose into the interior.

euro

Hello,

Is the Golf originally equipped with a turbocharger, or is it an aftermarket addition? The original 80 hp engine is often very finely tuned for emissions. Mine had no power at low RPM, and you could feel a strong surge around 2500 RPM. Do you see any smoke in the rearview mirror when accelerating at full throttle? If so, it's likely the turbocharger is the issue. If not, you could try turning the fuel metering screw a quarter turn clockwise as a test. How does it drive otherwise? The difference between the 70 hp engine and the 80 hp engine should be noticeable, meaning much quicker response (from 2000 RPM) and better acceleration. If you don't notice that, something is wrong.
The fuel injector nozzle can sometimes get stuck, as can the probe, especially with rapeseed oil, but less so with diesel. Also, the equalization port, which connects the space under the membrane to the ambient pressure, can become clogged (this black rubber cap that is fitted onto a 13mm aluminum screw. There is a hole in the screw, and inside there is a felt-like material that acts as a filter, which tends to get clogged with rapeseed oil).

Best regards, Uli.

Okay, I've been installing a digital instrument cluster (in my Golf) for the past 10 minutes.

Regarding the questions:
I don't see much smoke when accelerating.
Otherwise, it drives quite well, but it lacks a bit of power in the higher revs.

What I might also mention is that the Jetta has very few available aftermarket parts.
The Golf has everything (climate control, power steering, 90A alternator) and also a significantly higher weight.

Now, regarding the LD (Load) display, what values should be shown there (approximately) under which driving conditions (acceleration, braking, shifting, etc.)?
During my first test drive, it was like this:
Idle: 0.
While accelerating: max 0.3.
When shifting gears: immediately go to 0.
When easing off the accelerator, while accelerating: immediately drops to 0.

Can anyone make sense of this? I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

euro

I took a closer look at the matter today.

1. The boost pressure does not exceed 0.25 bar, even on the highway in 5th gear at full throttle.
2. The hoses connecting to and from the cooling system are leak-free, as is the cooling system itself.

I removed the hoses and blocked one end while blowing air into the other end. (I probably looked like Meister Röhrich at that point, muttering something like, 'Werner, Eckhard, I'm making a fool of myself.')
I also blew into the hose that runs from the turbo to the LDA. I had disconnected it on the LDA side and was blowing air into it, and some of the pressure escaped somewhere.
Can someone confirm if this is normal? Is the pressure being lost within the turbo itself, or is the problem located somewhere else?

'When I disconnected the intercooler hose at the turbo (the side that connects to the intake), then blocked the hose and blew air into the thin hose leading to the LDA, I was able to build up pressure without any air escaping. Therefore, the hoses and the intercooler are airtight.'

Can the wastegate be leaky? But in the tuners, pressure is also lost through the diaphragm, and that loss is more than compensated for, isn't it?
Could the mysterious pressure relief valve be faulty and releasing pressure even at 0.25 bar? In any case, I couldn't screw the screw in the middle of it either in or out; it seemed to be stuck. (How do you overhaul that part?)

Could the fuel line be clogged? I only noticed that I had to blow quite hard when I blew through the fuel line after disconnecting the hose.

Well, a lot of questions.
... but I really want to know now where the boost pressure is going, or rather, why it's not being built up in the first place.

euro

For me, it looks like the wastegate valve is stuck open, which is causing a lack of boost pressure! I'm trying to use a rust remover to get the shaft to move, but it's normal to have a lot of resistance due to the spring tension of the LDA (Low-Pressure Activation) sensor. Defective turbochargers usually make a very loud whistling or grinding noise, which I can't hear because I am deaf . You can disconnect the air filter intake hose at the turbo and check the bearing play and smoothness!

I noticed something else today:
- I can open the wastegate by hand, and it 'pops' back into place, so I assume it's okay. (The first time, I had to pull on it quite a bit; I thought it might be stuck).
'If the car has always been driven with a boost pressure of only 0.25 bar, then the wastegate hasn't really had to do anything up until now, right? Or am I misunderstanding something?'

- I've now completely tightened the adjustment screw on the pressure relief valve, but it didn't make any difference.

- If I tighten the adjustment screw for the boost pressure on the turbocharger, the boost pressure will increase from the current 0.25 bar to approximately 0.4 bar (or possibly more, but I haven't been able to test it on the highway yet).

Can you help me understand what this means and give me some tips on how to achieve a boost pressure of approximately 0.9?
Just by tightening the adjustment screw for the fuel mixture? But then soot would be a problem again, wouldn't it? Or is that only possible with a different nozzle?

Or is the LDA (Lambda-Sonde) faulty, and that's why I'm only getting more pressure because more fuel is being injected across all states?

How can LDA be validated?
I had already unscrewed it and examined the membrane; it looks to be in pretty good condition.


euro

Written on: 03-11-2007, 20:21

Today's test drive on the highway: 0.5 bar.
I will continue to tighten the quantity adjustment screw and see what happens.

Now the idle speed is too high, how do I adjust it?

euro

At the lever's set position!

Tom.