Brake VL not releasing properly

Hi!
The search function is currently unavailable due to server overload .
If something similar already exists, and someone has the link, please let me know.
I'm going to delete this again.

Regarding the issue:
My G3 underwent a 'complete overhaul' (it was done by a small, friendly workshop).
(since I didn't have the time myself), completely new wheel bearings and fresh brake fluid.
to receive.
Since then, the front left brake hasn't been releasing properly all the time.
As long as the brake is cold, there's nothing noticeable.
It then starts with a slight squealing sound when taking right-hand turns (when the left brake disc comes into contact with...).
the outer left tire pressure is increasing, which becomes more and more noticeable until it is eventually detectable even when driving straight.
Then there's also a slight vibration (the wheel is lightly braked).
It's noticeable, even when braking gently.
I took a look at the whole thing yesterday and disassembled it.
The outer lining 'contacts' the disc in a segment that is approximately 5cm wide (marker markings have been removed) - which is narrower than the brake pad itself.
The brake cylinder can be moved with 'normal' force and moves smoothly.
The saddle is easy to operate, and the pads move smoothly without catching.
their instructions.
It's possible that this error has nothing to do with the repairs that were carried out, and that...
Did it happen by chance at the same time, or not?
Has anyone else experienced a similar issue?
Was there a connection to similar repairs?
What was it?

Thank you in advance.

Best regards,
Rudi

'This 'phenomenon' also occurred in my 1998 Seat Ibiza (AFN model) even after a repair to the wheel bearing.'
In the forum, people are discussing the possibility that dirt or debris between the brake disc and the mounting surface could cause the disc to run unevenly.

Try it!

Best regards.
Peter.

If your wheel bearing is okay, then, in my opinion, the following causes are possible:
"The piston isn't moving freely enough. This sealing ring in the caliper is square and is supposed to return the piston after the brake is released (normally). Have someone briefly press on the brake pedal with the piston depressed (just a few centimeters!)." The piston should retract slightly when released.
2) Under load, the saddle may feel stiff or jerky, or the "bearings" may have excessive play. Here's the translation:

"The argument in favor is that only the outer layer is present."
3) The flooring material does not slide easily along the guides under load. There are slight "ridges" on the "surface that contacts the guides." Use a brake file.

Given that it only runs along the outer edge and not the entire surface, I suspect it's a floating installation.

Good luck!

Hi!
In my 98 AFN Seat Ibiza, this 'phenomenon' also occurred after a repair to the wheel bearing.
What did you do about it?
Dirt is out (unfortunately).

@Tom:
When I release the brake pedal, the piston retracts a little bit.
The steering has a bit of play, but I've experienced worse (without having such problems).
Otherwise, it operates smoothly. The outer layer is not always in contact, but only on a certain area.
a rather narrow segment.
The cause of the brake disc damage could be an emergency full stop that my partner performed.
Early in the year, I had to pull over on the highway because someone was suddenly driving 95 km/h behind a truck.
trimmed .

Yesterday, I wanted to replace the brake discs, but I failed because of the lower bracket bolt .
I stopped the action for now to avoid stripping the screw head completely.
On Friday, I can go to the colleague who replaced the wheel bearings and use his lift. It's completely full.
Tool palette available

I hope the car will start behaving normally again.

Best regards,
Rudi

Oh, so you have a crack in the glass, or at least it looks like it? I understood that your covering is always in place, but not across the entire width of the covering .

If your brake disc is warped, it doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem with your brakes themselves; it could be due to the bearing, the hub, or the disc itself. If it's significantly outside the tolerance range, it can also look like the coating is starting to peel or rub off in certain areas.

Once, I used a dial gauge to measure the roundness. First, I checked the disc, then the hub. If the disc is out of round but the hub is not, I examined the hub to see if it's as smooth as if it were new, and then I put the disc back on. If the problem persists, I tried putting the disc on from the other side and measured again. If another disc is broken, it's probably a problem with the disc itself.

The hub can become warped if the wheel bolts are not tightened evenly. Then you'll need to replace the hub. For safety's sake, I would also replace the bearing.

Dirt or grease between the disc and hub should be avoided. I always use my drill with a wire brush attachment.

"The Passat has a lot of holes, but only 5 screws. The disc isn't secured. Rust forms in the areas where the unnecessary holes are. If you turn the disc when the wheel is removed (which happens very easily, I was even planning to install a securing screw), dirt could get between the disc and the mounting surface, causing the disc to run unevenly." If you drive like that for a while, you'll quickly start to experience vibrations because the thickness of the disc will eventually become uneven.

Oh, so, you mean you have a crack in the glass, or at least it looks like that? I understood that your topping is always available.
only not across the entire width of the surface
Don't worry , he's only experiencing this short period (and it's becoming increasingly intense with the rising temperature).
If your disc is wobbling, it doesn't necessarily mean there's something wrong with your brake, but it could be due to the bearing, the hub, or...
or be located on the disc itself. If it's significantly outside the tolerance range, it can also look like the coating is starting to peel or rub off in certain areas.

Once, I used a dial gauge to measure the roundness. First, the outer edge, then the center. If the hub isn't wobbling, but the disc is, check if the hub is perfectly smooth.
as if it were brand new, and then put the lid on it again. If it's not working, put the glass back on from the other side and measure again.
If another disc is broken, it's probably a problem with the disc itself.
The hub can become warped if the wheel bolts are not tightened evenly. Then you'll need to replace the hub.
For safety's sake, I also decided to participate in the .
Friday is the moment of truth *gulp*. Then it will become clear whether the disc, the hub, or the bearing is the culprit.
is. The temperature dependence still gives me hope that it will work on the glass.
Dirt or grease between the disc and hub should be avoided; I always use my drill with a steel wire brush attachment.
I managed to get the window down recently. The position should be available.
The Passat has many holes, but only 5 screws. The glass is not secured. Rust forms where there are unnecessary holes.
Are you going to stop the disc from spinning now that the wheel is off? (It happens very easily, and I was already thinking of installing a locking screw), because dirt could get between the...
The disc and bearing surface are in place, but the disc is running unevenly. If you drive like that for a while, you'll quickly start to feel a vibration because the thickness of the disc eventually becomes uneven.
I don't have that problem. The golf club has only 4 screws and 5 holes (one for the set screw).

Best regards,
Rudi

Okay, I'm sending you good vibes. It's probably just a scratch. Complain about it immediately; something like that shouldn't happen. If you put the rotors under extreme stress (multiple emergency braking maneuvers, after which the pads are usually also worn out), at least both should be warped .

"That's bad; you should really have the entire axle replaced." Not just a plain slice.

I will not be installing the flooring anymore; it seems it has also been damaged (possibly due to overheating or clouding).

Rudi wrote:

I don't have that problem. The golf club has only 4 screws and 5 holes (one for the set screw).

Just as it should be. Ideal, like my G3. You only need to verschandeln it once, and you don't have to be as extremely careful when removing the tires or changing the surface.

It just takes a little effort to get the screw out again, especially if it's been in there for a long time. But an impact driver and a tap with a hammer usually works every time. I always put a little bit of grease on the screw.

I already have new brake discs and new pads on hand.
They will definitely be new.

VW now offers securing screws with a Torx head.
I've always been able to get them out again without any problems so far.

Best regards,
Rudi

Herr Antje wrote:

It just took a little effort to get the screw out again, especially since it had been in there for a long time. But a impact driver and a tap with a hammer usually works. I always put a little bit of brake grease on the screw...

Holding a soldering iron to it briefly won't cause any harm either... But this impact driver is already a great choice.

Rudi wrote:

VW now offers securing screws with a Torx head. I've always been able to get them out again without any problems so far.

Meanwhile, for me, it finally means The screws are great, but the Phillips head was the worst choice. I specifically bought an impact driver for that.

@Mahk
"Even better, both would be ideal, but unfortunately, I don't have a soldering lamp..."

Rudi wrote:

Yesterday, I wanted to replace the brake discs, but I failed because of the lower seat rail bolt . I stopped the action for now to avoid stripping the screw head completely. On Friday, I can go to the colleague who replaced the wheel bearings and use his lift. Then the full suite of tools is available

.
Hi Rudi,

How far have you gotten by now? Hopefully, the screw came loose.

Hi Ulf,
Yes, the screw is missing.
After everything was new and clean, it took about 80 kilometers for the squeaking to start.
started again. This time, significantly quieter (the old pane really was quite noisy).
but still - present, despite heat generation.
Such a piece of... well, an unpleasant situation .

Best regards,
Rudi

And what did the measuring instrument say? Hopefully, you won't need to replace your windshields again anytime soon...

Rudi wrote:

Yes, the screw is missing.

Aah, at least you have that success on your side .

Quote:

After everything was new and clean, it took about 80km before the squeaking started again. This time, significantly quieter (the old pane really made a lot of noise), but still present, and generating heat. Such a piece of... well, an unpleasant situation.

Well, as long as the squealing side isn't noticeably warmer than the other side after a ride (whether it's the disc/hub/rim), it would just be a minor cosmetic annoyance for me... I think there are some pastes or anti-squeal pads for the brake pads, if I remember correctly?

...Well, as long as the squealing side isn't noticeably warmer than the other side after a ride (rotor/hub/rim), it would be more of an annoying cosmetic issue for me... but I think there are some pastes or anti-squeal pads for the brake pads, if I recall correctly?
Unfortunately, it's definitely warmer on this side than on the right side!
Tomorrow, the brake caliper pistons will be replaced with new seals, the brake lines will be renewed, and there will be a check on the left side.
another new wheel bearing. Now, with the new brake discs and pads, I have...
The problem is that when driving slowly, there's a feeling like the car is shaking once per revolution.
into a small hole (or as if something is slightly tipping over). There's a kind of 'clack' sound.
In my opinion, this strongly suggests that the problem is with the wheel bearing. I just don't understand why there would be bearing damage.
It is supposed to be temperature-dependent .

Best regards, Rudi (rateless / wireless ).

Quote:

There is a kind of 'clack' sound. In my opinion, this strongly suggests that the problem is with the wheel bearing. I just don't understand why there would be bearing damage. icon_confused.gif should be temperature-dependent.

Make sure the central screw of the drive shaft is "properly" tightened .