How do faulty ESDs manifest?

Hey,

I have been trying for a very long time to find the reason for the poor performance of my G2 TD (JR) with SB LLk and SB loader.
The maximum charging pressure is 0.3 bar.
I have already checked the exhaust system, installed a new muffler, and there are no other mufflers/catalytic converters present -> it's not related to that.
I have also already replaced the intake system, and I swapped the filter box from the JR against the one from the SB -> that's not the problem either.
The charger makes no noise, has only minimal play, and can be easily turned. The hoses to/from the LLK and the LLK are blocked.

The car instantly revs and also accelerates quite well in the lower range (with some black smoke), but it simply cannot exceed the 0.3 bar/155 KmH VMax.
Now I wanted to tackle the fuel injection system and start with the ESDs, but does that make sense, especially if everything else is working fine? I mean, shouldn't faulty ESDs also affect the starting behavior? Or on the acceleration "from below"?

If anyone from the Rhein-Main area is on the forum:
There is a reward of 100€ for anyone who comes by and manages to restore the missing boost pressure.

euro

Um... So, if he's getting 0.3 bar and smoking, I'd suspect the problem is more likely with the turbocharger.
Did you write this yourself? What was done?

I've seen quite a few 1.6TD engines where the wastegate wasn't properly attached to the turbo housing, which meant the turbo couldn't build up pressure.

... I've seen quite a few 1.6TD engines where the wastegate wasn't properly attached to the turbo housing, which meant the turbo couldn't build up pressure...

So, the lever for the wastegate valve can be moved by hand (with a fairly strong resistance), and when I release it, it "clicks" back into place audibly.

I would also like to visually check over the weekend to make sure the cover closes properly. What is the best way to do this, just remove the 4 screws from the cast metal deflector and then bend it to the side, or do I need to remove the exhaust clamps? This cast iron manifold is also secured in the middle with 2 (?) screws, which can also be removed?
Do I need any new seals for this?
I would also like to remove the air intake system, including the exhaust manifold, once to better see any leaks or cracks. Is this possible with relatively little effort? I haven't been able to find an instruction manual for this. The intake manifold must certainly be removed first, right?
What seals (screws, bolts, nuts) are needed for this?

euro

It should be sufficient if you tighten the 4 nuts on the exhaust pipe to the turbo and bend the exhaust pipe to the side. There should also be a flexible pipe attached. The faulty wastegates were also significantly lower down in the turbo, as the wastegate's mounting had failed.
You can actually reuse the old nuts and the metal gasket.
At this opportunity, please spin the turbine wheel by hand.
On my A3, after 280,000 km and a chip, there is no noticeable play.
Turns smoothly, as if it were ball-bearing supported.

Tagessuppe wrote:

It should be sufficient if you tighten the 4 nuts on the exhaust pipe to the turbo and bend the exhaust pipe to the side. There should also be a flexible hose attached. The faulty wastegates were also significantly lower down in the turbo, as the wastegate's mounting had failed. You can actually reuse the old nuts and the metal gasket. At this opportunity, please spin the turbine wheel by hand. On my A3, after 280,000 km and a chip, there is no noticeable play. Turns smoothly, as if it were on a ball bearing.

But the hose clamp is also attached to a bracket, right?
The only "flexible" part I can see is the one with the spring clips; I couldn't find a flexible tube. Does that also suffice to bend the hose, or do the clips need to be opened?
... the "hanging Wastgate" thing, I don't understand it, could you explain it a bit more?

euro

Hi,

"As you write it, I guess you already bought the renovation and didn't do it yourself, right?"

If you really want to examine the wastegate closely, then the exhaust system, including the silencer, probably needs to be completely removed.
This is quite fiddly because the rear engine mount interferes. The exhaust pipe is held at the top by 4 nuts, and at the bottom by the brackets. A flex pipe does not exist for the Golf 2.

Theoretically, one could access the wastegate from below. Practically, however, this would likely be extremely difficult, as there would be significant interference from the built-in turbocharger.
To reduce turbo boost, simply loosening the exhaust manifold is sufficient; the intake manifold can remain in place. Releasing the turbo from the manifold is impossible, and you can't get to the screws.
You definitely need to replace all the bolts and the gasket between the exhaust pipe and the manifold, as well as the gasket between the manifold and the cylinder head.

A lack of boost pressure from the SB turbo can actually only be caused by a stuck wastegate, provided the turbo itself is still functioning correctly.
(Assuming a short loading distance)

"Inlet nozzles alone are hardly responsible for such a low boost pressure."

Greetings
Jens

Jens 16syncro wrote:

Hi, "As you write it, I guess you already bought the renovation and didn't do it yourself, right?" If you really want to examine the wastegate closely, then the exhaust system, including the silencer, probably needs to be completely removed. This is quite fiddly because the rear engine mount interferes. The exhaust pipe is held at the top by 4 nuts, and at the bottom by the brackets. A flex pipe does not exist for the Golf 2. Theoretically, one could access the wastegate from below. Practically, however, this would likely be extremely difficult, as there would be significant interference from the built-in turbocharger. To reduce turbo boost, simply loosening the exhaust manifold is sufficient; the intake manifold can remain in place. Releasing the turbo from the manifold is impossible, and you can't get to the screws. You definitely need to replace all the bolts and the gasket between the exhaust pipe and the manifold, as well as the gasket between the manifold and the cylinder head. A lack of boost pressure from the SB turbo can actually only be caused by a stuck wastegate, provided the turbo itself is still functioning correctly. (Assuming a short loading distance) "Inlet nozzles alone are hardly responsible for such a low boost pressure." Greetings Jens

Thank you for the information! Yes, I bought the car about 2 years ago, including {ITEM}. Renovation, purchased.
The problem with the missing LD has been ongoing since this time. But I only recently installed an LD display, and since then I've been trying to find the cause.
The charger makes no noise at all.
I'm having trouble deciding how easily the wave of the charger should rotate. I have only noticed that the wave is much easier to turn when the engine is warm.
Should the wave actually rotate further after being pushed?
I had also completely disabled the wastegate (removed the pressure hose), but there was no change.

I would then proceed to remove the turbo, including the exhaust manifold. Can you get it "from above" or does the car have to be on the pit?
Can all 8 nuts of the exhaust manifold be reached without removing the intake manifold?

Maybe someone can briefly (in point form) describe the process for trailer conversion.
I will then purchase the appropriate nuts and gaskets.

Greetings
euro

euro wrote:

I'm having trouble deciding how easily the wave of the charger should rotate. I have only noticed that the wave is much easier to turn when the engine is warm.

So, the wave should be able to rotate very easily, and it should also have some play when released (not excessively, as there would be more friction without oil pressure).
The wave should not wobble (i.e., move up and down) or only move very slightly.

Quote:

I had also completely disabled the wastegate (removed the pressure hose), but there was no change.

Uh, the wastegate cannot be simply disabled. There is a metal pipe attached to the turbo with two 8mm self-tapping screws, which runs from the compressor housing to the pressure chamber.
You probably disconnected the hose for increasing the boost pressure; that won't help in your specific situation.

Quote:

I would then proceed to remove the turbo, including the exhaust manifold. Can you get it "from above" or does the car have to be on the pit? Can all 8 nuts of the exhaust manifold be reached without removing the intake manifold?

So, the bolts (nuts) for the exhaust manifold should be removed without touching the intake manifold.

You can find out exactly how to boost your performance by reading a book titled "Now I'm Doing It Myself". I also don't have a golf, I can't describe it to you exactly.

Greetings
Jens

Jens 16syncro wrote:

Quote: I had also completely disabled the wastegate (removed the pressure hose), but there was no change. Uh, the wastegate cannot be simply disabled. There is a metal pipe attached to the turbo with two 8mm self-tapping screws, which runs from the compressor housing to the pressure chamber. You probably disconnected the hose for increasing the boost pressure; that won't help in your specific situation. Greetings Jens

Nun, ich habe den Wagen zwar in diesem Zustand gekauft, daher sind alle Umbauten wie Klimaanlage, ABS/EDS, Standheizung usw. nicht meine Sache, aber ich habe zumindest ein grundlegendes technisches Verständnis. Das Rohr, das zur Wasserdruckdose führt, besteht bei meinem Turbolader sowohl oben als auch unten aus einem Metallrohr, ich habe dieses Rohr an der Wasserdruckdose abgezogen. I think this was the right place:-)
I had used the T-piece for the LD display on the hose to the LDA of the ESP.

I now believe that it is due to the fact that the wheel of the machine is becoming too heavy to turn.
I will review this again. However, the opening is so small that I can't even get two fingers in there to turn the wheel, does anyone have a tip on what kind of "tool" I could use instead?
Is there any miracle product that can reduce the friction between the shaft and the bearings a little?
I've been doing oil changes every 5-7.5 thousand kilometers.
What I just can't get out of my head is that this problem has been around in this form for so long. I would have expected the charger to mechanically fail if the bearings on the shaft are too difficult to turn!
The only thing that has repeatedly caught my attention in this context is (- Perhaps there is no connection there either?) - there are days when the car runs satisfactorily to well, and on other days it simply doesn't want to rev.

I'll be looking for another (used) charger.
The previous owner had already installed a different pump from the SB engine (the one with water cooling) and had sealed the water plugs.
O.T.: What kind of chargers are these, the ones with 2 wires going to the wastegate? Can I use those too?

euro

euro wrote:

aber I have a basic understanding of the technical aspects. The line to the waste gate valve consists of a metal tube at the top and a piece of rubber hose at the bottom, which I had disconnected from the waste gate valve. I think this was the right place:-)

Ok, I should have known that it wasn't original.
This rubber hose is definitely not original. In the KKK14-6087, there is a continuous metal tube inside. This change suggests that there was once a steam engine connected.
The fact that the water cooling system for the bearing housing was not connected also does not speak in favor of the previous owner's professionalism. Without cooling, faster wear is to be expected, as the space around the roller bearing (where cooling water normally flows) no longer allows for good heat dissipation. As a result, the bearing will wear out much faster than a turbo without water cooling. I would describe this as incompetence.

Quote:

I now believe that it is due to the fact that the wheel of the machine is becoming too heavy to turn. I will review this again. However, the opening is so small that I can't even get two fingers in there to turn the wheel, does anyone have a tip on what kind of "tool" I could use instead? Is there any miracle product that can reduce the friction between the shaft and the bearings a little?

If you coordinate the air flow directly to the LLK (presumably a type of engine component) from the turbo, you can easily reach the shaft. If you can't get the wave to rotate like that, then there's definitely something seriously wrong.

Miracle cure? Yes, new or overhauled turbo

Quote:

O.T.: What kind of chargers are these, the ones with 2 wires going to the wastegate? Can I use those too?

I have no idea, I don't know.