Engine Control Unit (ECU) Calibration for WFS

Hi, ich habe mir ein Steuergerät beim Chip umlöten versaut. SElber is guilty.

Okay, I've now obtained a new control unit and want to synchronize it with the WFS. I have VAG-COM, but how do I do this? It's a Passat 3BG, year of manufacture: 2004, engine: AVF, control unit number: 038 906 019 KD.

The engine is currently starting briefly and then immediately returning to its normal state. The WFS indicator light on the instrument panel is flashing.

Can I use any TDI PD engine control unit (ECU) for my 130 hp TDI, as long as I replace the chip inside it?

Best regards,
Steve.

Are WFS pins present on both control units?
Control unit: Part number, old/new?

Where can I get the immobilizer keys (pIns)? I don't have any.

Steuergerätenummer alt und neu sind momentan gleich. As stated above.

I would also like to build this here at location 038 906 019 KC.

You can either have your car's immobilizer programmed by VW, or you can try to read the login code yourself, but that's not easy for non-experts and also requires a lot of expensive hardware and software. Therefore, I would recommend having everything done professionally, otherwise you probably won't be able to get the login.

If you would like to choose the first option, there are specific tools available for that, such as those offered at vagdashcom.de.

Best regards, Max.

If I can't do it with VAG-COM, then I have to get it done at a VW dealership. Does anyone know how much that costs?

Can I now use other engine control units (ECUs) that are also designed for the 1.9 TDI PD engine and then have them calibrated with a software update to work specifically with my engine?

Hi, I damaged a control unit by having its chips re-soldered.
It is quite difficult to damage an EDC15 unit .

Can I now also use other engine control units (ECUs) that are also from the 1.9 TDI PD and then have them precisely adjusted for my engine with a software update?

Without modifications, definitely not. With some specific models (PDs), the STG hardware is incompatible – nothing will work in that case.
Otherwise, you need the appropriate tools (which are expensive) and the corresponding expertise.
(which certainly won't be distributed )


Best regards,
Rudi

I don't know how many chips you've already re-soldered, but for me, after several attempts, it was the first time that a component which should have been securely attached to the circuit board came loose.

It seems like someone just had bad luck and wasn't necessarily doing a poor job.
But thank you for your help.


Here's the translation:

'One more question: Can I program (calibrate) the engine control unit with VAG-COM if I have the PIN? If so, how?'

SpaceDragon wrote:

One more question: Can I program (adapt) the engine control unit with VAG-COM if I have the PIN code? If so, how?

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Immobilizer_III_ECU_Swapping

SpaceDragon wrote:

I don't know how many chips you have already resoldered...

... Thousands...

Quote:

"... but for me, after several attempts, it was the first time that a component which should have been securely attached to the circuit board came loose."

Heat damage.
The pads only detach when exposed to excessive or prolonged heat.

Quote:

It seems like someone just had bad luck and wasn't necessarily doing a poor job.

No, unfortunately, the work was done without proper qualifications.

But honestly, it sometimes happens to me that a pad comes loose, especially if you're too impatient. However, that's still no reason to give up on the electronics.

I'm happy to listen to your suggestions or even give you a call. I'm open to any tips. But I have to admit that the pad already came loose when I removed the chip, and it was the very first pin, so it wasn't really hot. I would have suspected an air bubble instead.


But as I said, I would be very grateful for any help you can offer.

SpaceDragon wrote:

... I would be very grateful for a tip.

Carefully detach the pad completely with the scalpel and solder a thin silver wire to the remaining trace. Then, connect the silver wire to the original pin.

Okay, the pad is completely gone. Unfortunately, it's also very difficult to see where the traces lead or where I could solder the silver wire.

Which pin on the flash?

The first two, specifically where the chip has its marking.

1: N.C.
2: RY/!BY (ready/!busy) Output from the flash memory that the microcontroller does not process.
If that's all there is, the machine should still be running.

Best regards,
Rudi

N.C. = No contact???
Is the Ready/Busy status not being evaluated or something? So, are those two pins essentially irrelevant for now? Should the device still work even without them?

P.S. First of all, thank you very much for your answers.