Questions about replacing the driveshaft cuff on a G IV ASZ

Hi,

Saturday is the day: The outer boot of the driveshaft on the driver's side needs to be replaced again. The reason: a mounting error during the replacement under warranty in March 2004, during the first inspection. The boot is torn just before the small, inner clamp, probably due to too much tension .

Has anyone here ever replaced the cuff on a G IV ASZ? Is there anything special to be aware of ?

I have the original repair manual, but it mentions great things like a special tool for the large clamping bracket, which should be tightened to 25 Nm. Is it possible to achieve a good result without this tool?

Okay, and how do you reliably mark the position of the 3 screws on the control arm so that the geometry is correct afterward? A center punch might sound good at first, but it could cause rust...

And does the wave absolutely have to be completely removed, as Repfaden requires ? I was considering having the wave mounted on the drive side and only securing the outer end, so that the tripod joint is not overstressed.

Unfortunately, I don't know the exact torque specifications; I always do it by feel. Removing the driveshaft? No, not in my case! Loosen the center screw while the tire is still mounted, remove the wheel, loosen the nut on the lower control arm (not the three small screws), remove the control arm and lower control arm together, then turn the steering wheel completely to the right, now remove the joint from the wheel bearing housing. Remove the damaged boot, use a 500g hammer to knock it out from the outside while holding the driveshaft in place. For the new boot, place the clamp on it and tighten it gently with pliers. I do this procedure on many vehicles without any problems! Note: When removing and reinstalling the joint, be careful not to damage the ABS sensor located in the wheel bearing housing.

What is the reason you want to remove the ball joint or control arm?

At least with my AXR, I've never had to do that when changing the seals.

Are there any differences between the AXR and the ASZ?

I think I'm just having a moment.


And yes, the driveshaft needs to be completely removed. A safe and risk-free disassembly of a driveshaft (without damaging surrounding components) is only possible when it's already removed.

Quote:

And yes, the driveshaft must be completely removed. A safe and risk-free disassembly of a driveshaft (without damage to surrounding components) is only possible when it is fully removed.

I completely agree. Furthermore, those few extra screws can be easily removed with the right tools in less than a minute, and then you can check and lubricate the internal joints if necessary.

Hello,

Quote:

Oh yes, and how do you reliably mark the position of the 3 screws on the control arm so that the geometry is correct afterwards? A center punch sounds good at first, but it could cause rust...

Remove the wheel and mark the position of the ball joint at the bottom of the wheel bearing housing twice using a small flat-head chisel (90-degree offset).
For rust protection: Use a brush and black paint.

Best regards, Rainer.

@T3Surfer:

"Thank you for your suggestions. However, I will follow the instructions in the manual and loosen the three screws on the wheel hub assembly and press the wheel hub assembly out. It's good to know that this can also be done with the clamp, and thank you for the tip about the ABS sensor! I have the torque specifications, as well as new screws for the wheel hub assembly and a new locking nut."




@Bertil:

No, you understood correctly. It also works at the ASZ, as usual, see above.


@BM:

Sure!


@Rainer:

Good tip about using a chisel!

I do have one more question, though :

The Repfaden beetle has several external joints.

81 mm / 80 g fat / 40 g for injection / 40 g in capsule.
90 mm / 100g fat / 50g for injection into the joint / 50g in a package.
90 mm / 120 g fat / 80 g for injection into the joint / 40 g in a capsule.
98 mm / 120 g fat / 80g for injection into the joint / 40 g in a casing.

"Does anyone happen to know which type of joint is installed on the outside of the ASZ unit (I don't have the repair kit here yet)? I'm specifically interested in the amount of grease required, as even the two 90mm joints differ in that regard."

Or, to put it another way: The repair manual categorizes the outer joints based on the installed inner joints. Who knows which inner joints the ASZ has?

- Synchronicity
- Synchronous speed: 3700 RPM.
- Tripod AAR 2000
- Tripod AAR 2900
- Tripod AAR 3300i

Quote:

Does anyone by chance know which joint is installed on the outside of the ASZ (I don't have the replacement kit here yet).

I would buy the cuffs this time as an exception. The fat pack is included in the set.

Cuff --> replaces 1J0 498 203A with 3B0 498 203E.
Mother --> 905 876 02

I have personally almost always had bad experiences with cufflinks from accessory brands.

BM wrote:

Quote: Does anyone by chance know which joint is installed on the outside of the ASZ unit (I don't have the replacement kit here yet)? I would buy the cuffs this time as an exception. The fat pack is included in the set. Cuff --> replaces 1J0 498 203A with 3B0 498 203E. Mother --> 905 876 02 I have personally almost always had bad experiences with cufflinks from accessories.

Hi there,

"I definitely wanted to get those parts from a reputable supplier (I have a nice mechanic in the family who is a NORA customer, and I'll be doing this job with him; he'll also provide a lift, pullers, etc.). We both only have limited time tomorrow (I'm moving), and the rear brake pads are due for replacement at the same time, so I wanted to clarify as many time-consuming details as possible in advance."
As far as I know, the replacement set always includes a 120g tube of grease, regardless of which joint it's for. That's why I wanted to know beforehand how much needs to be used. And what proportion should go into the joint itself, and what proportion into the casing?

But I think I'm approaching the topic a little too scientifically ...

hello


"Well, it's not overly problematic. I just replaced all four on my car recently. As described in the repair manual, mark the three screws at the bottom and remove them. Then, pull out the entire wheel bearing carrier and rotate it to the side. Cut off the old boot and use a strong hammer blow to knock the joint loose."
In the case of this , the grease is a new type of seal that fits onto the shaft, a spacer ring, and another plastic ring.
verschandeln the joint as much as possible, then slide on the cuff and apply the included grease. Hammer the joint into place. It's important to tighten the rings properly. Otherwise, after a certain time, the grease may be pushed out by the tension rings. (I experienced this myself.)
I built something similar myself using an old pair of pliers, following a diagram from the repair manual. It worked relatively well.

Put everything back together and then it should work.

Best regards, Charly.

Hello Charly,

Thank you for your description!

I was able to take a look at everything earlier. The car is already on the lift. As described, the repair kit contains everything. The clamps shouldn't be too much of a problem; in the original parts, they were simply pressed all the way down on the previously unrepaired side. I can manage that even without a torque wrench .

The screws are already marked, and the nut is removed. We'll start tomorrow morning at 7:00 AM . The control arm is quite smeared with grease; it will take some time to get everything clean.

Hopefully, we still have time to replace the rear brake pads (and hopefully there won't be any surprises like damaged seals or other issues on the caliper).

Okay,

Now, here's the feedback. Everything went well .
One of the guide pins on a rear brake caliper was completely corroded, but we were able to repair it successfully.

However, when it comes to the procedure involving the foreskin, things can easily go wrong.

First tighten to 200 Nm, then loosen by half a turn, rotate the wheel 180 degrees, and then tighten to 50 Nm plus another 60 degrees.
Has anyone ever done that at a Volkswagen workshop?

Thanks again to everyone!

P.S.: My car loves the attention. After the second start following the repair, it displayed "Inspection in 3,000 km" .

Roger wrote:

... First tighten to 200 Nm, then loosen by half a turn, rotate the wheel 180 degrees, and then tighten to 50 Nm plus another 60 degrees. Has anyone ever done that at a Volkswagen workshop? ...

Probably just as much as precisely weighing the fat in grams or tightening the clamps with a special tool, including a torque wrench.

Last Sunday, we replaced the front right axle boot on my car. It could have been done with common sense even without any prior experience...

We couldn't close the clamp very much even with a large pair of pliers. Then I clamped the jaws of the pliers in the vice, which allowed me to close it a bit further. However, it didn't really go as far as it did on the other, original side of the vehicle...

How far were you able to push the large lever?

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:
//edit:
And the question of the amount of grease didn't arise, because fortunately there was no visible dirt in the joint, and relatively little grease was lost due to the leak located far out. So, topping up the grease by eye seemed appropriate . Otherwise, I would have completely drained it and refilled it with the correct amount of grease. By the way, it was the 98mm joint.

Roger wrote:

We couldn't tighten the clamp very much even with a large pair of pliers. I then clamped the pliers in the vice with its head, which allowed us to tighten it a little further. However, we couldn't tighten it as much as it was on the other, original side of the vehicle... ...

It worked very well with a pair of pliers that had a small head but long handles (which provided significant leverage). The clamp is now securely fastened.