ZR - Change at 1.4 PD

Hello Forum,

I would like to perform the ZR-to-P nozzle swap myself on a 3-cylinder engine and am looking for a suitable instruction manual. The instruction for the 1.9 PD here in the forum is already quite informative, I'm just looking for something for "AMF".

tnx in advance

bernie

Hello,

Send me a PM with your email address. Maybe I have something for you.

All tension rollers + water pump should of course be replaced - What about the Z-belt tensioner? Does it need to be removed as well? Also a wear and tear part?

asks

bernie

Hi!
No, if the valve spring is still tight and doesn't have any oil leaks. I also considered this and asked for advice in the forum. My engine now has 162,000 miles and is still running smoothly. Seems to be in good condition...
Pay close attention to ensuring sufficient space when adjusting the belt tension! The repair guide refers to a 4mm gauge. This has never worked for me either; I also posted the dimensions I use here in the forum somewhere. You can also search.

brezelmann01 wrote:

Hi! No, if the oil pan is still sealed and doesn't have any oil leaks. ... Seems to be in good condition...

Very naive statement.

The Spanner is the number one cause of failures.


Normally, the Spanner is always included in a complete ZR ET kit.

I see Bertil,

Everything else will quickly become a one-way trip.

The rest is quite similar to the 1.9er.

efistho

Quote:

The Spanner is number one in the list of failure causes.

What's wrong with this part? I haven't seen any PD motors that were truly defective.

The reasons for failure that I am aware of include: broken main bearing (tension roller), broken water pump housing, worn-out pump, probably poor material, or assembly errors during tensioning (the tension arm is on the tensioner because the damping effect is underestimated).

By the way: The manufacturer is NTN.