Golf 3 Drum Brakes: Maintenance or Replacement?

Hi,

I've also started experiencing that annoying "squealing sound when I release the brake" from the rear drums.

I know the technical cause and could fix it (the thing is running dry).

Before I start focusing solely on adding fat, I wanted to ask if you think it's worth it, or if I should also include the installation of the coverings at the same time (since I'm already having everything open).
I've also read here before that someone sometimes brings drums along.

I've had the Trekker since September 1995, with 68,000 km on the clock and for 3 years. I don't know when the rear brakes last saw a workshop, and they haven't needed any work on my car yet.

"Thank you."
m;

Depending on the driving conditions, drum brakes can last a very long time. I wouldn't replace them just for the sake of it. For those who are very lazy, there's a viewing hole on the anchor plate with a rubber stopper, where you can see the brake shoe that's wearing out more. However, this doesn't tell you anything about the drum itself. If you have to loosen the adjuster before removing the drum from the back, it means the drum has already worn down significantly and may need to be replaced.

Just get a couple of extra pins and, for now, disassemble everything for inspection and, if necessary, reassemble it to retrieve any parts.
It's not that much effort, really. For eliminating squeaks from the ankle plate, copper paste had proven effective on my Golf II back then. Everything else will migrate to places where you definitely don't need it when heated.

Cu-Paste is BAD because I have ABS.

But then it will be the gray ceramic paste. Hopefully, it's as non-migratory as the copper paste.

m;

Hi Martin,

I've also been experiencing this typical 'golf cart squealing' sound for a few months now.
Among other things, that was also a reason why I had removed the drum.
But if you're already taking it apart, you might as well replace the bearings and seals too, following the motto 'It doesn't cost that much!'

'At 142,000 kilometers, there was only minimal wear; the brake pads and drum (except for some coating damage on one pad). With my G II, the brake pads were not much worse at 186,000 kilometers. Other people drive the car to 350,000 kilometers and scrap it without ever doing anything to the rear brakes...'
In one word: they last a lifetime!

I used LM's anti-squeak spray for drum brakes to prevent squealing; I was also considering using copper grease.

My advice:
If you're already taking the drum off, you might as well install the new brake shoes.
You can definitely reuse your old brake pads; they have very little wear.

Best regards, Georg.

Clear statement:

Change the tires!

Why?

Here's the translation:

'It's quite simple: the entire braking system is significantly affected by the condition of the rear brake pads. Even if these pads appear to be in good condition but are only glazed, you can suddenly lose 10, 20, or even 30% of braking power. This increases the wear on the brake pads on the front axle.'
In addition, the brake balance is thrown off.
Often, only the rear brake pads are replaced, and this immediately restores the braking feel to that of a new brake system. The pedal travel becomes noticeably shorter, and the controllability improves.
I recently treated a G3 with a 90 horsepower gasoline engine in the same way. The new lining was about 1mm thicker than the old one, so practically nothing. However, the braking performance of the entire braking system after the change was enormous.
The replacement parts for the drum brake aren't that expensive, and I wouldn't want to experiment with the brakes.
After approximately 150,000 kilometers or 10 years, the brake pads are no longer in good condition.

I can confirm all of Gottman's statements.

Even if the coating still has a good, thick layer, it might already be 'glazed' for a long time.
Then the brake balance is really off (I noticed this recently while driving on BA during a sudden full stop before traffic ).

Now that the complete change has been made, both front and rear, the correct balance is back.
When braking, you can also feel that the rear axle now provides braking force as well, and it's not just the front end that digs into the asphalt.

Best regards, Georg.

Quote:

When braking, you can also feel that the rear axle now also decelerates, and it's not just the front end that digs into the asphalt.

Damn, I actually always feel that way. That's why the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) kicks in even with the slightest bit of braking.

My Golf seems to be the only car that can do a nose wheelie.
So far, I've only been able to do that with my bicycles.

m;

Quote:

My Golf seems to be the only car that you can do a nose wheelie with.

*Wants to see pictures*

My Golf seems to be the only car that can do a nose wheelie.

So far, I've only been able to do that with my bicycles.

Times change! You are growing up .

Used to be bicycle, now it's the Golf .

Duck and cover...

I only had my brake pads replaced just now.
At approximately 204,000 kilometers, the brake pads appeared to be the original ones. Only the wheel brake cylinders seemed to have been replaced.
Interestingly, one of the brake pads was cracked. The drum itself was perfectly fine, as the pads weren't worn down excessively.
Well, the mechanism was also no good anymore; on one side, the spring for the locking wedge had also come loose.
In total, this action has cost me 145 euros.
New brake pads, new springs and small parts, and of course, brake fluid to top up.
I left the original settings; there was no apparent reason to change them. I reconfigured them and it's working well now.

Now, at least the handbrake is working again .

Here's a little tip: To maintain the functionality of the drum brake rear axle, I regularly engaged the handbrake shortly before coming to a stop at red lights, allowing the vehicle to roll to a halt. This should only be done on dry roads with good grip and at low speeds. It puts slightly more stress on the drum brake than normal and helps prevent glazing (which can occur due to insufficient brake pressure).


Given the very high durability (based on my own experiences with a VW Polo I, Opel Kadett E, and Suzuki Ignis), the increased wear and tear caused by this type of use is not a major issue. In the case of the Polo I, I had to replace two leaking wheel brake cylinders anyway, and I replaced everything at a mileage of approximately 250,000 km. The reason for replacing the drums was the improper use of a hammer to remove them, as the drums had "stuck" in place. A piece broke off the edge of one of the drums. At that mileage, the drums were still within the manufacturer's acceptable wear range. However, the brake pads were completely worn out due to the leaking wheel brake cylinders, and the mechanism was also almost seized. The drum brakes were not self-adjusting.

With the Kadett, I was only involved because of noises. Even after 320,000 km, everything was almost like new. The drums were self-adjusting, so we replaced the self-adjustment mechanism, which was stuck. The rest was cleaned and reassembled. The wear was about 75%. All the parts looked like they had never been touched before.

Auch beim Suzuki Ignis waren Quietschgeraeusche der Grund fuer ein Abnehmen der Bremstrommeln. Da das Fahrzeug noch Garantie hatte wurden die Geraeusche in der Vertragswerkstatt beseitigt. Getauscht wurde nichts, bei km-Stand ca. 80 Tkm sah alles wie neu aus. Man reinigte die Mechanik und fettete sie mit gelblichem Spray. Since then, it has been quiet.

"With the Peugeot, I didn't have to deal with the drum brakes. That's a good thing, because the disc brake rear axle is more prone to issues like uneven braking and poor handbrake performance. Drum brakes, on the other hand, have a reputation for lasting a long time and rarely causing problems. The only downside is that the ABS sensors on the rear axle are located in a vulnerable spot and tend to get dirty. This can lead to errors and eventually to ABS failure."