G4 Windows Lower Automatically After Closing

Hello G4, 1JZ1W Variant 2001.
When locking the driver's side door, the windows were found to be open upon returning to the vehicle.
Sometimes, you can't lock it on the FS side, but you can on the BF side.
Who can narrow this down?
Muß ich gleich das Schloß komplett nehmen? Mice switch?
Thank you for your input.

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When closing the door on the driver's side, the windows were open upon returning to the vehicle. Sometimes, you can't lock the door on the FS.

- Mit Komfortschließung oder ohne, 2 oder 4 el. Power windows?

- Can the vehicle be locked using either the remote control or the key cylinder?

- Are the doors also unlocked (opened) when the error occurs? And was the locking system powered on when the system was locked (indicated by the flashing locking light and red LED)?

- Does the entry light on the driver's side door always work?

First, check these points before you start looking for problems. And while you're at it, inspect the front door wiring harness, located behind the bellows on the A-pillar, for any cracks or breaks.

Hi, I was hoping to hear from you , thank you.
Variant = 4 trg.
Comfort closure = push button?
The front door probably couldn't be locked with the key, so it was locked from the back, and that worked.
For your information: I initially discussed all of this over the phone. However, I will first retrieve the vehicle and read out the data, and then I will work through all the points.
The owner had been experiencing issues with the left-hand lock for some time, but the Caramba treatment seemed to provide relief for a while.

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I was hoping to hear from you, Bm icon_biggrin.gif. Thank you

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Thank you for the compliment, but I'm certainly not all-knowing, so let's make sure we understand each other. There are also other users here who are at least as knowledgeable, or even more so, about this topic.

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Variant = 4 trg. Comfort closure = FB ?

Do you notice if, when using a key to lock or unlock the car, the windows go up or down while the key is held in the locking or unlocking position, meaning the key is pressed against the respective stop? This usually happens with cars that have four electric windows and a comfort control module.

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For your information: I initially discussed all of this over the phone.

However, I will first retrieve the vehicle and read out the data, then I will address all the points. }
Check the plausibility of all data points within the measurement blocks.

...and that no one should sit on the couch when someone is home.

Even "tidying up" the key ring or children's hands sometimes lead to funny results on the car. When you press [a button], the LED on the key also blinks so nicely .

m;

BM wrote:

Check the plausibility of all points in the measurement blocks.

I'm not particularly good at that, so I'll take a look at the comfort control unit (data blocks) and print out any error codes related to the door closure, if there are any.
Then I'd also like to ask again about the door-mounted footlight.

@ Martin, no, there are no more young children in the family.
The incident happened in the parking lot, and when we returned, the windows were open .

So:

The car's windows cannot be opened via the FFB (presumably a specific control system), unless something has been modified. Normally, the windows can only be opened using the ignition key, by holding it in the "open" position for a longer duration, as described.
First, check if everything is working correctly: the door closes properly, the LED is on, and the turn signal is working. If not, you can use the Modular Wiring Board (MWB) to see which door is causing the problem.
"In the driver's side door lock of my Golf, a microswitch was defective. This switch is responsible for signaling that the door is open (there are actually 3 or 4 of these switches inside). The consequence at the time was that the interior light didn't work, and the warning chime didn't sound. Otherwise, there were no other noticeable issues. I bought the switch from reichelt.com, soldered it in, and secured it. It works perfectly and cost almost nothing."

"I'm puzzled as to why the windows would go down... it's possible that the microswitch for the lock is stuck in the "open" position, which would signal to the car that all the windows should be open. However, in my opinion, it should then be impossible to lock the car."

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The reason why the windows are going down is a mystery to me... it's possible that the microswitch for the lock is stuck in the "open" position, which signals to the car that all the windows should be open. However, in my opinion, it should then be impossible to lock the car.

That's also my assumption, which is why I asked if the vehicle was also found to be unlocked. If I'm not mistaken, these signals also pass through the door control unit. Who knows how it reacts in case of malfunctions, since the vehicle can only be locked from the right side via the key cylinder. Possibly, in case of a malfunction, some functions in the control unit are "temporarily disabled" so that the vehicle can be locked at all, and then checked for plausibility after a certain time . To understand this, one would need to know the requirements document for the programming, which would greatly simplify troubleshooting. Unfortunately, the manufacturer keeps the technicians as ignorant as possible regarding this.

Hello, I received the G4 variant today.

1. with comfort closure.
2. The key on the left side does not automatically return to the "off" position.
The interior door light is always on when the door is opened, and the interior light turns on and then dims off.
4. In case of an error: If the key is held down for too long while unlocking, all windows will lower, and the vehicle cannot be locked from the outside using the key fob. This issue is resolved when all windows are raised with the ignition on.

5. Error memory.
All door control units: 2H, FS0002r, BF0002B, HL0002r, HR0002r.
1 Error: 013031 - Keypad FS; unlock - short circuit to ground - intermittent.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate.
Should I now open the door panel and look for the microswitch on the lock?

Edit: The LED is blinking in a closed pattern, the turn signals are not working, neither when "on" nor when "off." I'm not sure if that's supposed to be the case.

teileklaus wrote:

... Should I now open the door panel and look for the microswitch on the lock? Edit: The LED is blinking steadily, the turn signals are not working, neither when "on" nor when "off"; I'm not sure if that's supposed to be the case.

If the turn signal control is programmed (which is usually the case), the turn signals should blink. If they don't blink despite being programmed, then one of the microswitches is defective. In my case, it was the one on the trunk lid.

Okay, Bertil, now my question about the measurement data blocks: where can I see the switches being opened and closed? Is it at address 46, then under "measurement data block"?

Regarding the microswitches in door locks, there used to be a relatively good guide available from American sources.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1542461

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Should I now open the door panel and look for the microswitch on the lock?

Have you checked the wiring harness yet? That's where I would start. Then, look for the measurement data blocks – hopefully, a proper label file (in German) is available.

"In cases of typical cold solder joints or a faulty microswitch (door latch - indicating the door is open or closed), the error message doesn't match. It's also possible that the "safety lever" inside the lock is broken at its pivot point, and a fragment is jamming the microswitch for the key button, which could also explain the jamming of the cylinder. In that case, I would replace the lock and keep the old one as a source of spare parts."

@ Holger: Thanks for the great pictures.
@BM: I've checked the wiring harness, but I don't want to cut it yet. It seems normal, but I know that's not a guarantee.
At least the problem doesn't change if I leave the door open, close the trap, and lock it from the outside.
I'm scheduling a different appointment where, once everything is sorted out, I can also get a locksmith to come by before noon so that the box doesn't have an open door over the weekend.
I printed out those pictures a while ago. As far as I understand, the loose solder joints are the cause. In my case, it could also be the switch!
Thank you very much for the help so far .
Unfortunately, the MWB documents are only available in English, which I'm not very familiar with. I will proceed with activating the "Safe" function.

teileklaus wrote:

Thank you, Bertil. Now, regarding the measurement block, where can I see the switches that open and close? The address is 46, and then the measurement block?

Oha... I can't memorize that... I'll have to check it out over the weekend, then I can access my "pile of junk" again.

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As far as I understand, the cause is loose solder joints.

I doubt that, because if that were the case, the mass points for all the microswitches would be affected, and the door light wouldn't work. The error log would then show something like "implausible signal" or similar.