Crankshaft Locking Tool for 1.9 TDI AFN Engine

Hello.
Today, I replaced the timing belt on my 1999 Passat with a 1.9 TDI AFN engine, including the crankshaft bolt and crankshaft pulley. A few days earlier, I had tried to find a tool to secure the crankshaft. It's not easy to tighten the crankshaft bolt to 90 Nm plus 90 degrees. Through online searches, among other places, I came across a tool called VAG 3099. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this tool at two dealerships, online, or in Autodata or repair manuals. There is a tool called Hazet 2588-1 or VW T10050. A picture of it can be found at the following link: [link]
http://www.hazet.de/deutsch/produktinfo/pdf/2588_3.pdf
I bought this tool with the hope that it would fit. (A little bit of optimism is always necessary when working on cars). And, as I suspected, the tool doesn't fit; it's only designed for common rail engines. In a pinch, having already partially disassembled the car and needing to finish the job today, I made my own tool. I assembled a device from several pieces of 6mm flat steel, bending, drilling, and welding it together (using the new crankshaft gear as a template). I was then able to attach this device to the crankshaft gear with two screws, and it could be secured by clamping it to the motor's front housing (the bracket). It worked perfectly.
My actual question is: Does this VAG 3099 kW fixing tool not exist for PD TDI engines? Does anyone have a picture or know where I can find one?
Or have various people, in their purely theoretical tinkering thoughts, failed to notice that there is no specialized tool for fixing PD or KW injectors on TDI engines?
I'm curious to know if anyone has more information about this infamous '3099'!

Furthermore, I've read several times about putting the car in 5th gear and pressing the brake to secure the rear axle while working on the coilover. In my opinion, that's complete nonsense. How would you even loosen an extremely tight coilover nut like mine using that method? It's impossible; the coilover always moves a little bit with the process, and you never get the correct torque applied to the coilover spring.

Otherwise, I'm glad the engine is running again, exactly as it was before. Even according to VAG-COM, the readings are almost identical to what they were before the timing belt replacement, still close to the ideal range.

'Greetings from a fellow enthusiast!' (or something similar, depending on the context)
expensive

Hello,

The VW 3099 is from Matra and costs 44 euros including shipping. I just received mine.

Hello!

I've found some guides on timing belt replacement, but none of them specify the torque values and degree markings for the various screws that are specific to each model.
Can anyone help me with my '98 AFN? (... and post the NM)

Thank you & best regards.
Peter.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'PS:'
Is it actually legitimate to secure the crankshaft with 5th gear and the brakes, and then open the screw on the crankshaft?

So, for a normal timing belt replacement, you don't need to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt unless you want to precisely align the crank position sensor and replace the pulley itself!

I've already replaced the timing belt on my Ibiza twice myself, and I didn't have any torque specifications for the bolts, but they just needed to be tightened securely! You only really need to worry about the bolt on the tensioner pulley, possibly the small idler pulley, and the Allen screws on the crankshaft pulley.

'...so why do some instructions say to loosen the camshaft pulley and the 'one-way' screws on the pump...? I'm completely confused.'

Your suggestion to only open the 'mother' roller or tension roller seems like a better approach to me.

Best regards.
p

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'PS:'
You didn't have to loosen any motor block supports, did you? When I look at the engine bay on the AFN Ibiza, it doesn't seem necessary. (Read in various guides).

Hello,

Quote:

loosen camshaft gear

The camshaft gear is at the top, and the crankshaft bolt is at the bottom.
Loosening the camshaft sprocket makes changing it a bit easier and faster, but it's probably doable without it even on an AFN engine. For example, I did my first timing belt change on my AHF engine without loosening the camshaft sprocket, and subsequent changes with it loosened. It just speeds things up.

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

In my AHF (Annual Health Check), for example, I performed the first ZR (Zahnriemen - timing belt) replacement without disconnecting the NWR (Nockenwellenverstellung - variable valve timing), and subsequent replacements with it disconnected. It's simply faster.

And it's also more precise because the camshaft alignment tool almost slides right in when everything fits perfectly.
One should not underestimate how much the newly installed timing belt stretches when it is being tensioned.

I also read some instructions beforehand and had a VW workshop manual available.

For my Ibiza 6k AFN, I did it like this (just as a helpful guide).

Right rear wheel off, underbody protection removed, tension released from the serpentine belt, tension released from the V-belt (push up the tensioner pulley on the alternator), loosen the four Allen screws on the crankshaft pulley, then remove the serpentine belt from the crankshaft pulley and screw two bolts into the crankshaft pulley.

Remove the air filter housing (loosen and detach the hose clamp on the intake hose), remove the timing belt cover, disassemble the inner timing belt guard (a bit fiddly with the top screw), remove the valve cover, replace any defective seals if necessary, rotate the crankshaft until the mark aligns with the transmission side, then lightly tighten the Allen screws (this secures the crankshaft and prevents it from rotating when the belt is installed), secure the water pump with clamps, secure the fuel injection pump with a suitable drill bit, loosen the tensioner pulley, remove the old belt and install the new one.

Start the engine briefly to engage the pump, then carefully reattach the new tensioner pulley and push it against the inner wheel. Be careful not to overload the tensioner bolt; use a gentle touch! Use a screwdriver to press the locking mechanism of the tensioner into the groove (a mirror can be helpful). Screw in the bolt and tighten it. Loosen the Allen screws on the outer wheel. Manually rotate the engine two revolutions (using a wrench on the inner wheel) and check if the markings align correctly. Replace the valve cover and perform a test start.

Anschließend Feinjustage der Pumpe von VAG, die 'Einmal' schrauben sind bei mir schon mehrfach gelöst und befestig worden! Gehen auch jetzt noch! Zassembly...

Tools (which may not be available): Spanner wrench for the pump screws, sizes 13mm and 10mm (whatever they're called), those longish 12x13mm 'sleeves'. A 14mm ring spanner can probably fit onto the 12mm side. These things are simply brilliant! Also needed: a 10mm wrench for the inner timing chain cover, and a VAG Com diagnostic tool is definitely required.

A novice or DIY enthusiast should preferably have this done by a professional mechanic! The repair manuals also sometimes describe the procedure differently, especially regarding the crankshaft fixing method, which is not necessarily the intended approach. These are merely my own experiences.

The camshaft gear is at the top, and the crankshaft bolt is at the bottom.
Thank you - Should I have expressed myself more precisely?

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation, Boro!
1.) No motor mount! *A weight has been lifted.*
2. A layperson or hobbyist should preferably have it done by a professional in a workshop.
I would love to help, but unfortunately, I can't choose between paying 80 euros including tools and labor, or 300 euros at a workshop.

Okay then, this weekend belongs to the ZR .

Best regards to everyone.
Peter.

No, not a motor mount .

What else comes to mind...

inner timing belt cover; be careful with the small mounting screw at the top! When assembling, it tends to slide backward, and you won't be able to get the nut on anymore; getting it back is really a pain. Attach it very carefully and make sure the nut goes on .

Make sure to install the small idler pulley at the top *after* you've put the belt on!

Tighten the 3 screws, one at the back and two at the front. Ideally, position the pump rotor so that you can adjust both front screws simultaneously; this works with one specific setting! When adjusting the injection timing using VAG, it's sufficient to tighten only one screw at a time until you reach the correct position. Otherwise, you'll go crazy constantly adjusting and loosening the wheel if you do it 5 times!

Crankshaft pulley timing wheel, it's marked to indicate the correct position as it was originally installed on the crankshaft pulley; otherwise, it won't align properly and you'll have problems later!

inner timing belt cover, the small mounting screw.
Sure, it's a small thing, but it has the potential to be really annoying! Great, thanks!

Attach the small idler pulley at the top only after the belt is in place!
That probably gives even more room for adjusting the belt tension. Thanks!

@Adjust the fuel pump.
I'm still not entirely clear on why it's necessary to adjust the tension by twisting the impeller when installing the new belt, but I'll figure it out eventually . Thanks for the tip.

Best regards.
Peter.

...Well, in my case, the injection timing didn't seem to be quite right after the change, at least not completely accurate; I don't know if it's related to the stretching. If it still fits correctly after the change, then you've saved yourself that part .

Are the material costs included in your €80 price? I paid €91 for the last original VAG set (including pulleys). The Conti belt before that was noticeably stretched after 50,000 km, so I prefer VAG. At that time, I left the tensioner pulleys .

I looked it up online.
Two 'major manufacturers' for this timing belt came to my attention.
Continental (or Contitech) and Powergrip.
Both were available from the dealer for a fixed price of approximately €80-€90.
On eBay, I found a complete timing belt kit for around €50 (including tensioner and idler pulleys and consumables), and the special tool needed for the job cost about €35.

Hmm, whether that was due to the stretching of the belt or the 'worn out' tensioner in your Conti, we can only speculate now. The former is causing me to frown right now .

Best regards.
Peter.

I wouldn't have gotten such a vital part like the water pump from that online store... it's well known that counterfeit products are common there.

I wouldn't have bought such a vital part like the ZR from that online store... it's well known that counterfeit products are common there.

Thinking about it, I have to agree with you.
Hmm, do you mean that you can't trust a part just because it's in its original packaging? *My heart is racing.*
Are there possibly any numbers on the timing belt that can be verified by the manufacturer as being 'genuine'?

Have there been any significant negative experiences regarding the timing belt?

Best regards.
Peter.

My previous sentence also came from a book! Specifically, it was from a VAG car dealership called 'Steiner.'

The previous Conti tire was also from the same batch, and the tensioner rollers are new, original VAG parts, replaced at 261,000 km! So, the Conti tire was running with new rollers.

At 317,000 kilometers, the pump failed and was replaced. During the replacement, the belt was removed, and it was discovered that the ribs of the belt were severely worn, with some small metal strands already visible... A new VAG (Volkswagen Group) belt was purchased from a local dealer, and it was then noticed that the Conti belt was about 2-3 centimeters longer than the new VAG belt.

Approximately two months ago, I replaced the timing belt again at 380,000 km. This included the tensioner pulleys, which now have 119,000 km on them. The VAG timing belt has 63,000 km and shows no visible damage, but it's about 0.5 cm longer than the new one!

Don't be afraid, just observe it! ...maybe I acquired a plagiarized work back then!