Engine control unit locked?

Hello!

I'm currently making my first attempts with the newly purchased VAG-COM.
My Golf TDI, specifically the ALH engine, isn't running properly.
Do not exceed 3000 RPM, and it often starts with some difficulty when warm. I've already cleaned the turbocharger, and it seems to be working fine. (It was completely clogged).

I tried to read the data from the engine control unit.

Address 01: Engine, Label file: none.
Part number: 038 906 018 AN
Part 1.9 R 4 EDC 00SG 1819
Encoding: 00002
Operating number: WSC 00046

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"1 error found:"
17978 - Engine control unit locked.
P 1570-35-00 - -
Readiness: Not Available.


Okay, now I'm exactly where I was before.
and I don't know what to do next.

Everything else can be read out, but not the engine control unit. The LED on the diagnostic connector on the engine control unit was also flashing red.

Can anyone help me with this?

Okay, I understand. Please provide the German text you want me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Okay... and read the manual if the system is yours.

Have you tried searching for "error 17978" or "engine control unit locked," or "WFS"?

I tried to read out the engine control unit:

Everything else can be read out, but not the engine control unit. The LED on the diagnostic connector at the engine control unit also blinked red.


Unfortunately, what you're writing is completely contradictory. You're saying that you can't read the engine control unit (ECU). But:

Address 01: Motor Label file: none
Part number: 038 906 018 AN
Part 1.9 R 4 EDC 00SG 1819
Encoding: 00002
Operating number: WSC 00046

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'1 error found:'
17978 - Engine control unit locked.
P 1570-35-00 - -
Readiness: Not Available

What is that? A red, blinking LED (in an original system) indicates a short circuit (either ground or positive). This can happen, for example, with aftermarket radios that have been installed.

Hello!

Okay, so I bought this from the forum's online shop.
It's been a few weeks, though, because I was waiting for the laptop for some time, and then I was on vacation.

It has helped me with other cars before; I've been able to read out some faulty ABS sensors.

And again, regarding mine:

When I run a complete system check, it reads everything, including my errors in the HVAC system, etc.
The LED is always green, but it turns red and blinks only when I try to access the engine control unit.
And nothing works.

Okay, I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with my car. I bought it used about 2 years ago.
A 1998 Volkswagen Golf ALH, with 210,000 km mileage. In its original condition, unmodified and untuned. The radio seems to be original as well.
There's a hands-free phone system installed, but I don't use it.

It seems there's a problem with the immobilizer; it has happened twice now that it apparently didn't work, and the car wouldn't start. The error log also indicated a "weak signal." I still need to sort that out, no question about it.

What I don't quite understand:
Based on my search in this forum, it seems that the "locked" engine control unit is likely related to the immobilizer system.
The car is running, but I don't understand how. If the immobilizer isn't working correctly, the engine shouldn't be able to start, right?

Just read the manual. The red-green blinking LED on the diagnostic device only indicates that data is being transmitted.
A persistent red light indicates a short circuit to ground or +12V.

Yes, the "locked" issue is likely due to the WFS (Vehicle Function System). It's probably that there were reading problems with the ignition key at some point, or the control unit lost contact with the instrument cluster.

If the car starts normally, clear the error codes and it should be fine.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello!

Thank you for your support!

Yes, I deleted it. After a test drive, the error was no longer present.
The WFS actually used to publish content, and there was something in it. I'll get that sorted out.

I'll now go ahead and check all the other things that were mentioned earlier.

One last question:
There's some kind of catalytic converter or similar device in the exhaust system.
Can it get clogged? Because the turbo was also very dirty with soot, and the car was only driven for short distances?
That's what my gut feeling tells me...
(Short-distance driving will be over starting tomorrow; then he'll be driving 50 km daily. Or could he burn himself out again?)

Just drive onto the highway where the speed limit is 130 km/h or higher, and simply put your foot down and accelerate in the highest gear for 10 kilometers. Then you'll notice that everything is working properly. You can also hear it, and if you're lucky and your car is really like that (which is definitely possible), you'll see a black flag for the first 1-2 kilometers.

I drive 1000-1200 kilometers in the city each week, and unfortunately, I'm familiar with that.

The catalytic converter (KAT) can sometimes become clogged with diesel, and we have encountered this problem several times in our workshop, and we have found solutions accordingly .
So, the cats that we "replaced" would not have been able to be released back into the wild by simply letting them out on the highway.

Hello!

Yes, I understand.
That would be a solution. I've done something like that before.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English." My girlfriend currently drives 60 km every day, and I hope that will remain the case for the next 3 years.
I drove it briefly last week, and I got the impression that it was already running a bit better.

Next week, I have to drive about 100 km on the highway, and I'll see if it reaches its top speed.

Possibly, I will disassemble the catalytic converter and examine it.
Then I can still decide what to do.

Hello!

I'll continue here.

The Golf 4 ALH currently only reaches a top speed of about 145 km/h, and it feels restricted above 3000 rpm. However, it drives fine otherwise, and my girlfriend doesn't have any problems with it. If necessary, it can stay like that, at least then it won't fall apart so quickly...

Today, I removed the first section of the exhaust pipe and took a look at it, as much as I could.
I could only see into the cat from the back, it was a little foggy, but not completely obscured.
From the front, I can't see anything without cutting it open...

I then used a standard air blow gun, typically found in hardware stores, with a pressure of 7 bar, and directed the airflow in the usual direction towards the exhaust pipe, including... Kat was blown away, a cleaning cloth was wrapped around the blasphemy gun, and off they went.
Not much came out of the back; I'd say a matchstick wouldn't have been able to pass through the other end.
Then I took it for a test drive without the exhaust, and it maybe ran a tiny bit better, but not really noticeably.

Now, the most important question:
What happens if you drive a normally functioning vehicle of this type without an exhaust system?
Is the engine performance getting worse?

I just can't tell whether the cat is asleep or not.

I might take the car to the mechanic tomorrow because I'm stuck and can't fix it myself.
"The error memory usually doesn't show anything; recently, it only showed a turbocharger pressure regulation difference once."

I'm not really sure how all these measurement blocks and channels work.

I've already replaced the timing belt on that car, and the fuel injection timing is set right at the early limit.
I cleaned the turbocharger because the adjustment was stuck, and I replaced the fuel filter.
The new fuel filter isn't harmful, but it hasn't helped.
The "turbo cleaning" attempt wasn't successful because it occasionally stopped working two years ago, and eventually stopped working altogether.
The VTG control rod is still movable, and the Turob is still working. But then, later on, after the turbo-cleaning process, the performance gradually started to decline.


Does anyone have any ideas on how I should proceed?

Hello,

Quote:

Is the engine performance getting worse?

No, it stays pretty much the same. So, the KAT is not available either.

Please check and, most importantly, understand measurement blocks 8 and 11 in the engine control unit.

Ulf wrote a technical article about systematic troubleshooting.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer was faster...

Here is the aforementioned article /viewtopic.php?t=3322.

Air filter/mass airflow sensor checked?



I would also like to see the log entries from 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM because the loader was actually due for replacement 2 years ago. Furthermore, there are still errors being reported in that regard.

You need to familiarize yourself with the measurement blocks. That's the only way to figure it out.
Did you only buy the diagnostic system to clear the memory and reset the oil change indicator?

Steffen W wrote:

Rainer was faster... Here is the aforementioned article /viewtopic.php?t=3322. Air filter/mass airflow sensor checked? I would also like to see the log entries from 8:00 AM to 11:00 AM because the loader was actually due for replacement 2 years ago. Furthermore, there are still errors being reported in that regard. You need to familiarize yourself with the measurement blocks. That's the only way to figure it out. Did you only buy the diagnostic system to clear the memory and reset the oil change indicator?

Hello!

Thank you for the link.

Yes, and so far I haven't fully utilized the diagnostic system. I really need to sit down and read through all the technical articles and try to get familiar with it. Unfortunately, computers aren't really my thing.
But I don't regret buying it; I've already used it to read and successfully fix many errors (in my legal, part-time workshop).
I think I've already recovered about half of the money I spent after such a short time.

Thank you!

[quote="Steffen G"]

Steffen W wrote:

And yes, so far I haven't fully utilized the diagnostic system. I really need to sit down and read through all the technical articles and try to get familiar with it.

It's best to bring the relevant literature with you and do what's described immediately. That's the fastest way to learn. The guides that describe self-diagnosis are also very good.
Anything related to login codes should only be attempted if you have sufficient knowledge of the subject matter.

Steffen G wrote:

Unfortunately, computer stuff isn't really my thing.

It's unavoidable. It's not going to get any easier.

Steffen G wrote:

But I don't regret buying it; I've already used it to read and successfully fix many errors (in my legal, part-time workshop). I think I've already recovered about half of the money I spent after such a short time.

Simply reading error codes is not an art.


What about the mass airflow sensor?

Steffen W wrote:

What about the mass airflow sensor?

Hello!

I took the car to the VW workshop where I always get my parts.
They installed a new one as a test, and they said the Golf should now be working normally.
He already seemed to understand the issue based on my description of the problem.
I'll try it out on Monday to see if that's really the case.
Hopefully.

I had already cleaned the LMM before, but it didn't make any difference.

I also have another one lying around, but I don't know where it came from or what it's for.
I've tried that one before, but I didn't notice any difference. Then I can safely discard it.

Thank you for the help and support.
And Merry Christmas!!!