Golf 2 1.6D Timing Belt Replacement

Hi.

Yesterday, I wanted to replace the timing belt on my Golf II (year 1990, 1.6D) and hopefully fix its oil leak problem. Replacing the water pump wasn't a problem, but to remove the lower cover for the timing belt, you apparently have to disassemble the pulley from the crankshaft. *Annoying.*
So, there I was, staring at four internal hex screws and a large multi-point screw right in the middle. I was so startled that I immediately reassembled everything.
Has anyone here ever done this before? I have a few questions...

What is this screw called, or what type of nut goes on it (outer diameter 21.5mm, the threads are external)? Does it have a left-hand or right-hand thread? I believe it should be a left-hand thread. And how do you counterhold the crankshaft to loosen it? What torque value should be used to tighten it again?

Or is it enough to just loosen the four Allen screws? It didn't seem like it. My two copies of the book 'Now I'll do it myself' are completely silent on this matter.

Can someone help me with this?
BTW: This is about this specific model: http://www.fingers-welt.de/gallerie/eigen/maschine/poel/poel.htm

Hello,

Fingers.

Hello!

As a former automotive locksmith for the postal service, I can help you with that.

Remove the four Allen screws, and then it should work. However, make sure to get four new screws beforehand.
The inner screw can remain in place unless you want to replace the KYMCO oil seal.
Replace the tensioner pulley; the timing belt is tightened manually by feel.

I don't know which method you are using.

- Mark the timing belt, and transfer those markings to the new belt, ensuring it's installed in the same orientation as the old one.

- or go for the full program, including blocking the fuel injection pump, using a NorthWest ruler, and adjusting the ignition timing.
Replace the VDD set. (There are some nice rubber sealing kits available now.)

Quote:

Remove the four Allen screws, and then it will work, but make sure to get four new screws beforehand.

With a reasonable, high-quality 1/2 inch Allen wrench, the screws should actually remain intact. And - caution, please don't use your beloved hot glue to attach the components , and don't tighten the timing belt too much.

Hi there,

Thank you for the quick responses. I will go ahead and purchase a high-quality Allen wrench set.

Best regards,

Fingers.

"... and it's a good idea to have 4 new Allen screws on hand, as they might be quite rusty due to their age, and removing them could damage the internal hex socket. The large screw/nut in the center doesn't need to be removed."

If the Allen screws refuse to come loose, simply drill off the head and then remove them.

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

If the Allen screws refuse to come loose, simply drill off the head and then remove them.

Or a few gentle hammer blows on the attached inner hub nut. Not too hard, otherwise the timing belt sprocket (made of sintered metal) could be damaged.

After changing the ZR (ribbon) belt, check the start-up time, or listen to see if it sounds different.

Hello,

Finger wrote:

To remove the lower cover of the timing belt, it is probably necessary to disassemble the pulley from the crankshaft.

Yes, it's still annoying the first time .

Quote:

What is this screw called

?

It has many names. Crankshaft bolt (like the eponymous syndrome http://dh5eah.toxisch.net/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html), panic bolt, kill bolt.
Just let them be if they haven't caused any trouble so far , even though vacuum cleaners are usually less affected by this problem.

Quote:

or what kind of nut is needed for that (outer diameter 21.5mm, the teeth are on the outside)?

19mm, 12-tooth. A slightly offset 19mm ring wrench will also work, but only after the serpentine pulley has been removed.

Quote:

Does it have a left-hand or right-hand thread?

right

Quote:

And how do you counter-torque the crankshaft to loosen it? What torque setting should be used to tighten it again?

Here's the translation:

"Have an assistant use a sturdy screwdriver through the inspection hole in the clutch housing to block the starter ring gear. This is tricky because it could slip, but it can work. Tighten with 90 Nm plus 90 degrees (e.g., using a 19mm socket with a 1-meter pipe from scaffolding attached)."
But all of that is just for completeness. Just loosen the four M8 screws and remove it, as others have already mentioned. If the pulley is stuck and won't come off, use a rubber mallet to tap on it alternately. A little penetrating oil can also help.

Best regards, Uli.

Quote:

If the Allen screws refuse to budge, simply drill off the head and then remove them.

Before using a drill, it often helps to use a multi-spline socket (which is needed for drive shafts) and gently tap it into the hexagon with a light hammer to loosen it – this works in 99% of cases.

P.S.: I don't think he replaced the screws. That contradicts his nature .

Quote:

Using a helper with a sturdy screwdriver to block the starter gear through the inspection hole in the clutch bell housing. Risky due to the risk of slipping, but it can work. Tighten to 90 Nm + 90° (e.g., using a 19mm ring wrench with a 1-meter pipe from the scaffolding attached).

That's the civilized way to do it.

It can also be done without help.
I always lubricate the threads and splines, keeping the mating surface on the gear dry. Then, with the gear inserted, I tighten it to 90 Nm. The 90 degrees are achieved using an air impact wrench at 14 bar .

So far, every single one of them has held up .

Quote:

Usually, a multi-spline socket (which is needed for drive shafts) can be hammered gently into the hexagon with a light hammer to loosen it - this works in 99% of all cases.

Are you forcefully inserting the multi-tooth tool into the rounded internal socket?

Quote:

P.S.: I don't think he replaced the screws. That contradicts his natural

.

Well, at the very latest, they will replace it during the next belt change .

Or he's building something completely new based on it... admirable inventive spirit with a tendency towards self-destruction. He has achieved respectable results; I had a great evening studying his website, keep up the good work!!!

Okay, so far I've been able to remove those four screws with a proper Allen wrench, and sometimes by tapping the head lightly. I also always replace the screws each time, because they're cheap... but it's really only worth it if you might need to access them again, otherwise, if the vehicle is going to be scrapped before the next disassembly anyway, it doesn't matter.

Quote:

Are you forcefully inserting the Allen key into the rounded internal socket?

Not really. I usually take a 200g hammer with me. Except for the edges, it almost fits together on its own.

Quote:

Or he builds something completely new based on it... admirable inventive spirit with a tendency towards self-destruction. He has achieved respectable results; I had a great evening studying his website, keep up the good work!!!

Yeah, I've also had a nice evening browsing his website - it's fascinating.

One thing you have to give him – he knows exactly what he's doing. Keep up the good work, Finger.

Hi there,

Okay, the tank is running again. The tensioner roller was probably too cheap and didn't quite fit, but that could be fixed. I had to drill out most of the screws, including those from this stupid plastic capsule. It was so corroded .

But let's talk about something else. You always seem to be listening for the engine noise. I have a feeling there's something rattling somewhere in the valve mechanism, even when the engine is warm *sound of someone clearing their throat*. Also, the temperature gauge has just stopped working. So, the faulty electrical system is really one of the main problems here. But back to the topic.

'Now Uncle Korf says: Check the hydraulic lifters. To do this, warm up the engine, then let it idle until the radiator fan kicks in, and then run it at 2500 RPM for another 2 minutes (and so on). Is that really necessary? I understand wanting to get the oil as hot as possible, but then I can't even take my truck out on the highway for a short drive and then risk looking under the hood? It would be a bit more considerate of the neighbors.'

Hello,

Fingers.

Well, depending on the noise and the specific defect of a hydraulic unit (hydro), it's possible that after a highway drive, it can become so full of fluid again that it becomes impossible to reliably locate the source of the problem, which is already a bit of a guessing game. Often, what seems like a defective hydro isn't actually the cause of the noise, but something else entirely. And since you have to remove the torque converter (NW) to replace it, people usually replace all three at once, unless they're just bored.

Have you ever thought about the scrappage bonus for mopeds ?
If you dismantle it beforehand, you could potentially convert the engine into a heat coupling system and use the resulting heating cost savings to finance a new scooter.

Hi,

Finger wrote:

But let's talk about something else. You always seem to be listening for the engine noise. I have a feeling that something is rattling somewhere in the valve drive, even when the engine is warm *burp*. The temperature gauge has also just stopped working. So, the faulty electrical system is really one of the main problems here.

I would just let it run its course.
Yes, the electrical issues are a nuisance. You would think that these old mechanical diesel engines wouldn't have such problems . Much of it comes from the dripping water that enters through the windshield during rain and flows into the central electronics before finally dripping onto the driver's left foot. My 2er almost caught fire because of this, apparently I wasn't the first to experience this . I got a new control unit from a junkyard and sealed the windshield, and it's been okay ever since. However, the temperature gauge still doesn't work (the wiring harness is melted). So, I ended up buying a 120° VDO instrument.

Quote:

Now Uncle Korf says: Check the hydraulic lifters. To do this, warm up the engine, then let it idle until the radiator fan turns on, and then run it at 2500 RPM for another 2 minutes (and so on). Is that really necessary? I understand wanting to get the oil as hot as possible, but then I can't even take my sports truck out on the highway for a short drive and then risk looking under the hood? It would be at least a little more considerate of the neighbors.

Yes, I would do it that way. Even hydraulic components can make noise at normal operating temperatures, not just above an oil temperature of 130°C.

Best regards, Uli.