VW Golf III TDI: 81kW (AFN) for Sale

Hey everyone.
Does anyone know anything about spark plugs?
What's it like when one or more of them are broken (driving behavior)?
After how many kilometers is this typically done?
Which one do I need?

'What I read was that they glow when the coolant temperature is up to about 70-80°C, which means they're constantly on in winter! Mine reaches its maximum temperature after about 20-40 km and then, with an outside temperature of 0°C, it's around 70°C in town and 80°C on the highway (around 80 km/h) according to the MFA (multifunction display), and the coolant temperature is also somewhere between 55-85°C. When it's -7°C or colder, a water temperature of 50°C is already quite warm.'
'I bought this car new 11 years ago, and I've always had problems getting it warm in the winter (where is the heat supposed to come from with a 4.6 l/100km fuel consumption and only 81kW? Well, it does get warm eventually when you reach 100 km/h). However, recently, the driving performance has deteriorated in the first 5 kilometers (it barely pulls or doesn't pull at all below 2000 rpm and then slowly gains power, really only in the higher RPM range; but once the oil temperature reaches 30-40°C and the water temperature is 0°C, everything goes back to normal).'

crafts

Which of your seven spark plugs are you referring to?

Once you've clarified that, the search will be much more helpful to you.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

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How does it behave if one or more are broken (driving characteristics)? After how many kilometers is this typically done? Which one do I need?

Hey, how do you come up with the idea that the glow plugs should heat up to 80 degrees Celsius ?
The candles will only start glowing BELOW +5 degrees Celsius. You won't notice any difference in driving performance. However, the effect is very noticeable when starting the engine at low temperatures, between 0 and -15 degrees Celsius.

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Mine reaches its maximum temperature after about 20-40 km, and then, with an outside temperature of 0°C, it has approximately 70°C oil temperature in town and 80°C on the country road (at about 80 km/h), according to the MFA (Multi Function Display), and the coolant is also between 55-85°C. When it's minus 7°C or colder, a water temperature of 50°C is already quite warm.

If the temperature consistently drops below normal levels during regular driving, it could indicate a faulty thermostat.

It's too cold right now.
I want to check first how and when they might break down, and then, if it gets warmer...

Hi,

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Excuse me, how do you come to the conclusion that the glow plugs should be activated up to 80 degrees Celsius?

He means the afterglow. EU2 TDIs like the AFN only have it for a very short time, while EU3 TDIs like my ASV can glow for up to four minutes afterwards. The exact time depends on the water temperature at startup, but I've never seen it last longer than 4 minutes. I have an LED connected to the preheating system, which makes it easy to see.

Normally, you can also hear a clicking sound when it stops.

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I bought it new 11 years ago.

Does he still have those original candles? If so, they're definitely junk.

Three months ago, after the car had reached 117,000 km and been driven for 7 years, I tested the spark plugs using a method involving headlight bulbs (-> search). Three out of four were completely faulty. Starting in sub-zero temperatures is quite difficult with those old plugs, but it does work eventually. Two months ago, I replaced them all (the fourth one also looked like it was about to fail). The cold starting behavior has improved significantly since then.

"Test your candles sometime; it only takes a few minutes, and I suspect that most or all of them are nearing the end of their lifespan."

It's perfectly normal for a TDI engine to produce less heat in the winter.

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"However, the driving performance has deteriorated over the first 5 kilometers. It barely pulls or doesn't pull at all below 2000 RPM, and then slowly gains power only in the higher RPM range."

Are you revving the ice-cold engine past 2000 RPM? Are you giving it so much gas when the engine is ice-cold that you can tell if it's pulling or not?

I don't think I'll comment on that any further... please search the forum for reasons why you should only demand full power from an engine after it has warmed up. "Demanding" in this case also means "full boost pressure," which a TDI can definitely achieve even at half throttle.

Best regards,

January.

'Hey, how do you come to the conclusion that the glow plugs should ignite at 80 degrees Celsius?'

Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. I will only provide the translation without any explanations.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.


'If the temperature consistently drops below normal during regular driving, the thermostat may be defective.'

-No, the interior is cold.

Hi,

Quote:

Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. I will only provide the translation without any explanations. I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

It's about the glow plugs of the engine heater. They definitely have an influence on how quickly the car warms up, but very little to no impact on its driving characteristics. Many TDIs (like mine) don't even have them.

Best regards,

January.

Are you revving the ice-cold engine past 2000 RPM? Are you giving it so much gas when the engine is ice-cold that you can tell if it's pulling or not?

'No, I know, you can tell when it suddenly starts pulling at 2200 RPM.'

You're burning out like light bulbs!
Yes, I still have the original parts in it and I'm just shy of 200,000 kilometers - so it's about time to replace them!!! No wonder.

And now: which ones are the best for mine?

Hi,

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"No, I know, you can tell when it suddenly starts pulling at 2200 RPM."

I don't understand the sentence even after reading it multiple times. You're saying that despite the engine being cold, it suddenly starts at 2200 RPM? It sounds like there might be a stuck VTG (variable turbine geometry) that suddenly releases.

Was genau ist denn nun eigentlich deine Frage? Die Zusatzheizung? Das Kaltstartverhalten des Motors? Dieses ploetzliche Ziehen ab 2200? Is that everything?

Please adjust the topic of the first post accordingly, because while "Golf III TDI 81KW (AFN)" tells us what kind of car you have, it doesn't say anything about the problem.

Best regards,

January.

>> Was genau ist denn nun eigentlich deine Frage?

Ja , das was ich ganz ganz oben Frage:
- Können die Glühkerzen kaput gehen, IST GEKLÄRT
- wann gehen die kaput und IST GEKLÄRT
- wie ist das Fahrverhalten wenn eine oder mehrere kaput sind (Warmlauffase) NOCH OFFEN
- gibt es da mehrere zur auswahl und welche sind die besten - ich denk mal BOSCH, Glühkerze Duraterm Chromium

>> Den Satz verstehe ich trotz mehrfachem Lesens nicht. Du tritts so sehr drauf (trotz kaltem Motor), dass es bei 2200 dann ploetzlich losgeht? Klingt irgendwie nach einer klemmenden VTG, die dann ploetzlich freigibt

Ja, genau, im Prinzip ist das gleiche Gefühl, wie wenn jemand den Turboschlauch runtergezogen hat und dir vielleich noch ein bisschen den Schlauch auch noch zuhält und dann bei 2000 U. wieder draufsteckt. - Plötzlich zündet das Gemisch richtig! - Vielleicht an den Resten der Glühkerzen.

Hi,

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- wie ist das Fahrverhalten wenn eine oder mehrere kaput sind (Warmlauffase) NOCH OFFEN

Stand bei mir eigentlich zwischen den Zeilen, aber nochmal im Detail.

You first need to clarify which spark plugs we're talking about. Are they the ones for the engine (4 in total...) or the ones for the glow plug heating system (3 of them on your car, but as far as I recall from previous posts, those should last quite a while).

If they break, then this happens...

Glow plugs: The cold start performance is modest, and the engine usually doesn't fire on all cylinders simultaneously. At -5 degrees Celsius and with three faulty glow plugs, my ASV (presumably a car model) started with significant jerking and shaking. It ran briefly without firing on all cylinders, but after 3 or 4 seconds, it "nagged" normally. From that point on, the driving behavior was normal, although I avoid oil temperatures below 70 degrees Celsius, exceeding 2000 RPM, and applying more than 500 mBar of boost pressure.

Glow plug heater: If it's broken, the car will take longer to warm up. It doesn't affect the driving characteristics – as you can see (as mentioned above), some TDIs don't even have them.

I think you have TWO problems. Faulty spark plugs can cause poor cold starts, but that other behavior, the sudden surge at 2200 RPM, is probably due to something else, perhaps – as I mentioned before – a VTG valve that's sticking when cold.

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Are there multiple options to choose from, and which ones are the best? I think Bosch's "Duraterm Chromium" glow plugs might be good.

Search function... there are various opinions and a lot of text available on this topic.

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Yes, exactly. It's basically the same feeling as if someone had pulled down the turbo hose and was partially blocking it, then put it back on at 2000 RPM. Suddenly, the mixture ignites properly! Maybe it's due to residue from the glow plugs.

No. Once the engine is warm enough for self-ignition to occur (which it is after it starts and runs on all cylinders), it will do so with a functioning fuel injection system and intact injectors. I'm more inclined to believe it's related to the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry). Do you have a boost gauge and/or can you create logs?

Best regards,

January.

Okay, if I understand correctly, I need to look into this now – as usual, fix one error and then investigate the next one.
'The problem I'm having is that it starts up fine, but then the engine speed doesn't go above approximately 1200-1400 RPM, no matter how much throttle I give it. After about 500 meters to 1 kilometer, it gets better, and after the first hill, which is about 4 kilometers away, it runs normally. When using biodiesel, it also starts below 0°C, but then it dies (floods) after 2 seconds and won't restart or only restarts briefly - so the combustion chamber is wet!'
'With regular diesel, as I said, it starts without major problems, even now at -18°C, well, with preheating. However, you can't give it any gas until it has traveled about 1 km and is going 50 km/h. Then, when approaching a town sign, I want to go uphill, but there's no power. I press the accelerator, and slowly, very slowly, the engine speed increases until it suddenly starts running normally and produces power. After 3 km, it drives completely normally.'
I can also imagine that the glow plug is heavily carbonized. I think a glow plug is broken (destroyed), and the missing catalytic surface of the glow plug prevents ignition from occurring.

Basically, it seems like the automatic ignition system isn't working properly anymore.
'Nothing makes sense anymore. I'm going to replace everything that's glowing – it's about time – and then we'll see what happens next.'
Okay, see you soon here. Many thanks to everyone – I've already learned a lot again.

and HAVE A GREAT DAY!

Unfortunately, I can't translate that word because it doesn't seem to be a recognized word in German. It might be a typo or a made-up word. Could you please provide more context or clarify the spelling?

Any diesel engine that is otherwise in good condition will consistently exceed 1200 RPM, regardless of the state of the glow plugs.

"A damp combustion chamber" doesn't matter to a diesel engine once it starts running.

Could it be that your tractor has something completely different and doesn't have any issues with the GSK?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.