Generator Workshop + Noise Cancelling Roll -> Free Run?

Hello,

I had a "Generator Werkstatt" error message in the MFA for a few minutes on my G IV ASZ for a couple of weeks. I dismissed it as a known issue with static charging, but I initially ignored it due to time constraints. The charging function was working correctly, and I had checked the voltage and load using VCDS.

However, today there was another issue after a short full-pressure test on the track. This time, however, there were some slight vibrations, and since then, the LiMA drive has been making unpleasant noises in idle, along with a swinging arm of the tension roller. I initially increased the LL speed to try and get it out of the oscillating range.

Is it now to be assumed that the free-running is over? Much of what I have found here and elsewhere about the search supports this.

Please provide feedback, including an estimate of the effort required to do it yourself.

Hi Roger, my chain tension was off, which was noticeable due to the strong rattling while driving at a low speed. The check takes about 2 minutes, simply loosen the chain and take hold of the chain wheel of the car's central locking mechanism. Then, give it a quick turn in the direction of rotation and immediately hold it. If nothing happens, the chain tensioner is broken. The replacement is quick and costs around 35€. ATTENTION: There are two versions...I had the wrong one first.

If an error message appears at higher speeds, it is certainly not just the freewheel that is the problem; it is possibly the alternator bearing that is worn.

Hi and thanks for the update,

Does one really only need the Hazet 2592?
What are the options? I have a Bosch LiMA with 120A installed.

On my car, there's a protective cap on the hub of the disc, according to the records, there's only the "KRR disc with free-running and protective cap" 022 903 119C for €58.13 including sausage.

I bought the part from the accessories. There's an "mm" specification. Take a look at the pulley: there's a "spacer" on it, pointing towards the chainsaw, so the belt is essentially guided in the forward part of the pulley. The purchased replacement part was therefore exactly the wrong way around. The protective cap is also included.

I didn't have the Hazet tool, but I had a tool from an unknown brand from a friend. It worked just as well: I just had to replace the belt on my generator because the unknown brand tool was too long. But even that was super fast: just unplug, remove the cable, loosen the belt, remove the two retaining pins, and you're done. Then you can also check if it feels like the starter motor has broken behind.

and here are the photos...one with unauthorized release and one with tools

Thank you very much, especially for the pictures!

My uncle is getting me an original part, hopefully the part number will match. As mentioned, the file only contains one freely rotating disc with a cover.

He also has the tool, but not the original Hazet one. Therefore, I will have to focus on the expansion.

I was sitting at my desk, looking at this from afar, and I didn't expect the key to require removal, especially since the (for a Golf TDI) key was already on the display stand.

...but there would also be the air intake hose...the water tank...and the useless carrier...then there would be princely space...

I think the Hazet tool would really help, but buying something like that for just one time... it's not worth it, and it's actually a lot of work to install. What, you could also replace the water tank, the air intake hose, the headlight...

Maybe it would be better with me without Xenon, as you can then easily access the aforementioned hose, and the water tank is smaller...

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Maybe it would be better for me without Xenon, as you can easily access the aforementioned hose, and the water tank is smaller....

I also just remembered, you have the "Boss Light" .
Will report. The operator of the Michael Neuhaus Golf Forum had the same problem himself, exactly as I did. In his case, the free-running function was replaced, and since then the message has also disappeared.

Also interesting, what prices are being called for this work according to this forum, always at G IV. From approximately €89 to €405 (Vienna) ...

Well, people often lie. Spending over €400 makes sense if the free-running is attached to a new LiMA

I'm looking for the receipt, I think it's somewhere at the top, because it's actually the first defective part on the car. However, I also immediately replaced the tension arm, because I had definitely had these symptoms for at least a year, but it only got really bad towards the end, and you could even see what the tension arm was doing just by observing it while it was idle

As I mentioned, it's a good idea to test the alternator mounting while you're expanding the engine, because they don't last forever.

Incidentally, I only have a 90A LiMa, I suppose the Dutch didn't get any more from VW...

I was curious about what could potentially break in a free-running machine. Furthermore, the car was unrecognizable after the change.
The rollers weren't worn out or misaligned. This piece of junk had completely destroyed the plastic cage around the rollers and completely blocked them. Do I also have photos of ?

Yes, it's like a license to print money.
Habs mal "von drüben" kopiert:

Quote:

Remove and install timing belt Three-phase generator installed and removed € 81,61 Remove and install free-running rim brake disc € 20,78 Belt tensioner: Removed and installed € 14,84 Small Helper + Disposal € 12,69 Timing Belt Pulley, € 65,45 Spannelement € 46,85 Double-groove belt € 44,00 Including 20% VAT, the total amount is a mere € 405,79.

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

I was curious about what could potentially break in a freefall. Furthermore, the car was unrecognizable after the change. The roles weren't worn out or the leadership positions weren't compromised. This piece of junk has completely destroyed the plastic cage of the rollers and has completely blocked it.

I haven't quite grasped the function of the free run yet. Should we consider it as a kind of functional replacement for the other engine side, which ultimately keeps the vibrations from the engine away from the LiMa?

Does this mean that a blockage simply means a failure of this damping function, but that the belt drive will still function even in a complete failure? Then there shouldn't be any problems with the KRR tearing, as has been reported in some cases. In the extreme case, it allegedly even dismantled the ZR completely...

So, the rotor of the LiMa is quite heavy. The 4-cylinder engine never really runs smoothly, but instead accelerates during each cycle, then stalls and accelerates again. When a rigid connection is used with the LiMa, it will increase its tendency to escalate.

Due to the faulty slip, nothing will be blocked except the slip itself. The serpentine belt continues to drive the alternator as usual. However, the load on everything attached to the belt increases. Therefore, the alternator pulley bearing could also be defective and eventually break the tensioner, as it was already moving almost 1-2 cm in idle. He's not built for that.

Wow, removing and installing the belt: €50 plus VAT... this takes approximately 45 seconds. Relax, insert the marking pin, and you're done. Leave the tools where they are, as you'll need them again in about 10 minutes... well, good for those who can do it themselves... However, if someone removes the air compressor, they should also disconnect the battery... was was a waste of time

Yes, the approximately 1 cm vibration is also affecting my system now. That's why I've adapted the LL to its maximum setting, which almost completely prevents the resonance. I basically have to drive almost 80 km in rush hour on the A3 and A5 every day, so I spend at least 20-30% of the time in traffic...

Thanks for the explanation, I had already figured it out pretty much correctly.

Tomorrow, the front discs and pads will be removed immediately, then the TÜV/AU inspection can take place. The pads still have good strength at approximately 129,000 km, but the discs are very worn.

So ... the AGR needs to be "healed" first .

Yesterday, TÜV (~145tkm)..first set of pads, first disc, AGR system as it has been since the first km...everything without any defects. AU Fog 0.09 heavily soiled DPF

The car continues to be driven until it breaks down....

I had once posted a very nice link from INA about free running.
(I've also installed 2 additional free-running systems in the 1Z units)

http://www.ina.de/content.ina.de/de/branches/automotive/engine_systems/product_range/mot3400/mot3410/mot3414/mot3414.jsp

Is not quite as detailed, but still explains the background somewhat.

Roughly speaking: Without free play, the main drive pulls on the cam, which then breaks it

m;

Thank you!

Okay, that's done. The release bearing and new belt are in. Except for the annoying washer fluid reservoir, which was stubborn and only came loose after removing the diesel filter. To remove the release bearing, however, a proper lever was needed. It must have been so hot that it pushed the grease out. LiMa-warehouses were still top-notch.

Unfortunately, the stage was occupied (a customer's Suzuki Grand Vitara with a faulty power steering pulley was still on it. For Suzuki, this part, which looks almost identical, already costs well over 200 euros in accessories ). So, I also had to replace the belt from above. However, it was possible with a bit of effort. Unfortunately, I couldn't do the brakes today without a stage. Next Saturday is their turn.

For this, I still need to replace a defective headlight bulb later. I didn't have a matching replacement - it's the passenger side. Coincidences happen...