Golf IV SDI vibrates, what diagnostic possibilities - VP37

hi...



I also worked in the search department, but I'm not sure which diagnostic options are available.


Golf IV : AQM (SDI)
KM : 203000, almost exclusively urban traffic.
AGR : to
DIFI : new
10 km on the highway at top speed, no Russians, nothing – but the engine still stutters across the entire RPM range.
No errors detected in the control unit.




the first nozzles and pump. I think the jerky acceleration was gradually developing. Sometimes it's less, sometimes it's more.

ZMS? What can I test? I removed the throttle position sensor (in emergency mode). Here, I still experience the same jerking.



For tips or a differential diagnosis, I would be grateful -> my work car still needs to last for a while.

/viewtopic.php?t=3285

In the middle of the thread, it explains how to check the ZMS (Zero-to-Maximum Speed) with a sliding test. For a more in-depth inspection, the gearbox needs to be disassembled, and a ZMS tester (e.g., from LuK) should be used.

Thank you for the link - the page is quite helpful.

A few days ago, something strange happened while I was driving. Now, because of the frequent getting on and off, I thought I had snow on my shoe, but when I think about it now

It happened while driving and shifting gears, like the clutch was suddenly disengaging (with the pedal fully depressed) and then re-engaging (as the pedal was slowly released) – so there was this kind of jerk, as if my foot had slipped.
Could this be a clue for the ZMS? Frankly, I'm not really in the mood to open it just for fun. The "push" indicator on the highest gear (for testing) is quite good

Can I rule out engine problems (since it was running at highway speeds)?

200,000 km are certainly quite a lot - especially since I've only been using it for city driving :-/

He doesn't have a ZMS.

Hi, as already mentioned, the AQM and the AGP do not have a ZMS but a torsion-damped clutch disc.
Sometimes, in wet weather, the clutch can slip a bit, and this is normal and very common.
Regarding your rough idling issues, I would recommend checking the fuel injection amount, and potentially increasing it slightly, as wear and tear on the mechanical fuel injection components can cause losses. Please read here in the forum how to do it.

hi


Thank you for the tips and the ZMS suggestion. I would have ordered it soon *grins*

Now that I had already increased the injection quantity via adaptation channel 1 to the maximum, but that didn't help, in fact, I had to reduce it. In the curriculum, the dosage is approximately 4.0 mg.

Now, I'm going to check it again today, and maybe next weekend, I'll verschandeln my throttle body and the intake manifold.

If he had "serious" problems, would he still run at top speed? I'm driving 1000 km this week and don't have any alternative fuel options available right now


It's not extreme, but definitely noticeable.

Is the start time okay? Spritzbeginn regulation?

Quantity-based system?

Held467 wrote:

Measuring device?

hi....


Shouldn't there be an entry? He's also running at top speed, so there shouldn't be any lack of performance (which surprises me).

How does a dripping nozzle manifest itself? Before, I was always most afraid of


EDIT:

The Rainer still has a page http://www.tdi-ruckeln.de/

Well, there, everyone has changed the needle drivers – mostly. Without an entry, still deviate?

I just went back to the vehicle:


The timing belt was replaced 10,000 km ago. After the TDI graph, everything was set up correctly.
At idle speed of 2000 RPM, the vibration is clearly noticeable. He doesn't smoke.

Can I rule out the injectors?

Unfortunately, I no longer have a clear fuel line inside. I will check for leaks in the fuel line next Wednesday. I have a cheap filter inside, which I've had for 3000 km. However, the problem didn't exist at the beginning. The maximum injection amount for this vehicle has increased by 15% since 70,000 km. He starts up really well.

well, I don't have any ideas either, and I'm not a professional ...and there are no error entries

According to my knowledge, the needle driver should have a resistance between 80 and 120 Ohms, and there should be nothing measurable to ground. The knocking method (see TDI-rattle) should also be helpful there...


Did you replace the O-rings under the "frog" during the DiFi change? Is the "frog" sitting securely? The management team at Klarsicht is incredibly helpful here.

Running the motor and shaking the return line from the pump towards the Difi, will you then see strong air in the hose?


I experienced similar problems after changing the filter, but with error entries (needle position sensor, implausible signal). Ultimately, he pulled the frog out of the well.


Best regards,
Holger

hi...

yes, I think it will probably be pretty simple, especially since I've been working on snow piles a lot. maybe I've damaged the pipe under the car. "Indeed, the frog is not a conscious being. Unfortunately, I don't have any evidence to support this."

"So far, it hasn't been a problem, but I'll check tomorrow to see if I have anything to pack it with..."

thank you:-)

As a test, it is also possible to drive without a license, however, not for an indefinite period.

I had already done that. Result:


no performance (well, it's obvious)
and still stutters


That was already surprising to me, but even more strange was...

NO entries were recorded in the fault memory - no glow plug - strange car.

I think the issue is probably with the fuel injector. I've now filled up with biodiesel and will check the fuel tank strainer and filter, as well as the hoses. I will get back to you Thank you

After the ESD was disconnected today, I went to a good repair shop. On the way, I realized (thanks to the unusually good roads) that it must be coming from the gearbox or something similar.


Do you think that the engine might be faulty? They were also surprised. I went "on stage" and the entire apparatus swung from left to right.

What could this swaying be caused by? I'm still suspecting the transmission. I find the "Antrieb" series strange.

Illness in 1.4L, 1.6L, and SDI. The differential is bent, the rivets are coming loose and sometimes are even causing holes in the housing, or they are misaligned.