hello
Please don't think I'm completely incompetent, but yesterday I had to quickly replace my serpentine belt – the front tensioner was already starting to fail. And since I had all the parts in the garage, I decided to do it on short notice; nothing much can normally go wrong.
So far, everything has worked perfectly, and the car is running flawlessly. However, I would like to understand some things myself during the follow-up process.
Basically, I understand the theoretical approach with setting (using a dial indicator and optical sensor) – at least as described in the wiki or in instructions.
"However, I made it easy for myself; I marked everything, unscrewed the rollers, put on the new belt directly, and simply screwed the rollers back on – and that was it. Don't ask me how the static adjustment looks now, but after two adjustments, I got the dynamic setting pretty good. To my surprise, the engine is running perfectly fine. Let's see how the new belt performs; heading into winter, I'll probably go back to an earlier start time to make it easier for the car to start."
Since my information on this matter is purely theoretical, I would appreciate it if you could evaluate my theory about this issue.
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statisch ist erstmal die grundeinstellung, die man mit dem nockenwellenrad macht.
diese sollte bestmöglich getroffen werden, damit man mit den spannrollen mittig ist - um evtl. später mal toleranzen auszubessern. wenn man nach dem tausch des riemens mit der spannrolle schon ganz unten ist, und man später uu. noch weiter runter muss - wäre es dann nicht mehr möglich.
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According to the T4 Wiki, for example, it states that the adjustment is made dynamically using the rollers (with an Allen key), which also seems logical to me.
So, if I'm now perfectly centered based on the measurement, and the rollers also have enough clearance in both directions, it seems like I might be lucky and can leave it as is?
Hello.
volvo 850 tdi - 2.5l AEL aut. bj.96 - bald 500000km
volvo v70n 2.4 - 2.5l 5Zyl Sauger bj. 2005