Clean DPF Without Removal: Easy Guide

Hello,

I just stumbled upon this website online: **************

Has anyone tried this before? What are your thoughts on it?

"I would have liked to remove my DPF for cleaning, but I'm hesitant because of the effort involved... The workshop told me that it would require loosening the front axle on one side - is that actually true? It's a Passat 3C with a BMP engine. Unfortunately, the disassembly instructions here in the forum don't match my model. Does anyone have a suitable description for the BMP DPF in the Passat?"

It's a bit overwhelming with so many questions at once; I'm just looking for the cheapest way to empty that thing .

Hello,

I've removed the link; we don't want to directly attack individual providers or products, even if they might deserve it.

Regarding its functionality: The soot in your vehicle's Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is burned off during each regeneration cycle. "Burned off" means it has been combusted.
Your engine control unit takes care of that automatically.

What remains is the ash. Now, a question for the esteemed reader: Where should this chemical substance transport the ash, considering that today's DPF systems are closed systems, comparable to a coffee filter? Correct, the ash will remain where it is.

To defend the use of hätte, it could be argued that with open DPF systems (i.e., where the filter is mechanically open and ash can escape, such as retrofit DPFs for older engines), the self-cleaning process is facilitated.
In open systems, the engine control unit (ECU) is unaware of the diesel particulate filter (DPF). Consequently, the regeneration process is initiated more or less randomly by reaching a certain load and, consequently, temperature within the DPF.
Unfortunately... The quote "First, the temperature or pressure sensor on the exhaust system is removed" is incorrect because these systems do not have such sensors installed.

The way the desired effect of "cleaning instead of replacing" is described is not only incomplete but also, unfortunately, incorrect and therefore constitutes fraud against the customer.
As a final consequence for the unsuspecting buyer of this product, there is a long-term risk of serious damage to both the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) and the engine due to subsequent effects: the filter gradually becomes more clogged, leading to a decrease in air mass flow and an increase in exhaust gas temperature, which can cause overheating of the turbocharger and catalytic converter.

Conclusion: Useless, throw it away.

Here's a short version for people with wood or coal stoves: Have you ever poured some kind of liquid into the ash pan to make it easier to empty? Those who believe in Santa Claus might try using a "miracle" product for this. However, those who believe in the Easter Bunny can simply burn the ashes again to make them disappear. I recommend using the shovel and the ash bucket instead.

Background information on the DPF: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=24243

Best regards, Rainer

Hello,

@ Rainer - thank you for the quick information; to be honest, I wasn't expecting any other answer either, but chemistry isn't really my thing...
By the way, they actually want over €350 for such a cleaning kit with just two bottles and a sprayer – for that price, professional companies offer genuine cleaning services including return shipping.

The remaining issue is the "to-do" list for expanding the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). It would be great if there was a guide somewhere on the internet that could help with this.
I would also buy the relevant literature if I knew where it was described.

Quote:

It would be great if there was a guide somewhere deep within the internet

.
With VCDS, you can also query the "fill level" of the DPF or view the differential pressure. This information can then be used to determine whether cleaning or replacement is necessary.
Later, this can also be used to reset the "level" in the engine control unit.

Generally speaking, the installation shouldn't be too difficult. Without any unnecessary complications, I could have finished it in half a day. But this isn't a Passat 3C.
You actually only need basic tools and a digital camera.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi,

As far as I remember, not much extra needs to be removed when dealing with BMP files.
Only for the BMR (2.0 16V PPD with 170 hp).

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

"The VCDS doesn't lack anything – I have everything I need. The fill level is currently at 59 grams. Officially, it's considered 'full' at 60 grams."
The installation on the Passat with BMP is slightly more complex due to the length of the pipe that connects to the DPF. If I remember correctly, it's about 80 cm long, and there's a section of flexible tubing in between.
Unfortunately, I only have a small pit at home, and it's quite a struggle for me to work alone with the eight screws that hold the engine cover on.
A little bit of information from the usual "DIY guides" would certainly be helpful in this case.

BTW: After how many kilometers did you put those 59 grams in?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

The entire car has 148,000 kilometers (or miles), while this particular one currently has 45,000. The DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) was left in place during the engine replacement...

Quote:

The VCDS doesn't lack anything - I have everything I need.

The fill level is currently at 59g. Officially, it's considered "full" at 60g.}
Then, you should probably enter the license information in the "About..." screen of VCDS and save it to your profile.

Best regards, Rainer.

already happened - sorry.

Hello,

When replacing the rear axle bearing on a VW Passat 3C, it is not necessary to remove or loosen the axle.
I've also had my DPF removed before, but it's not a pleasant job.
I jacked up the car approximately 50 cm and also dug a hole about 20 cm deep in the garden underneath the car.
The sensors on the DPF need to be unscrewed. Below, the DPF is attached to the engine with two screws (I also removed the bracket).
Because I also unscrewed the brackets from the flexible pipe.
The DPF is currently only connected to the turbocharger and the remaining exhaust pipe. If you disconnect these connections, it should come loose easily.
Then you can pull the DPF out with a lot of wiggling and turning, but you'll need to push the heat shield slightly aside.
I've already spent a few hours on this task, but it is possible to do.

Quote:

When performing a BMR (Brake Module Replacement) on a Passat 3C, the axle does not need to be removed or loosened.

Officially, in the BMR process, the steering gear is removed, which is what I meant by "something extra needs to be taken out."

I still have some time before it's my turn.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Am I correct in assuming that the engine control unit (ECU) will report a "coked" DPF early enough through the instrument cluster or the DPF lamp/MIL?

I don't think so, because the people who were using amounts clearly *over* 60g haven't reported anything about it.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

The BMR is supposed to be the 16V engine, but I only have the BMP (140 hp), so it should be completely different, right? There's still about 80 cm of pipe connected behind the DPF.

Quite the opposite, because both have the exhaust port on the back.
The BMR only has the suction side at the front (crossflow), while the BMP also has it at the back (counterflow).

I just wanted to make sure there's nothing here that I misunderstood.
Such a thread can also serve as a reference for later reading.

According to what I've read so far, the expansion of the BMP should be feasible without any additional work.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.