DPF removal for Passat 3C with BMP engine (Articles)

[Vielen Dank an den Dieselschrauber @Baba für Text und Bilder!]

Before starting the work, you should consider whether it would be a good opportunity to also remove the AGR valve for cleaning – in my case, the part looked like the picture below...

First, you need to remove the intercooler piping located on the top right side of the engine. The pipe is only held in place by a single screw and is clipped in at both ends (secured with a bracket). The three lines leading to the diesel filter, among others, can be easily disconnected from it.

Danach habe ich den Ventildeckel entfernt, da es die Arbeit doch erheblich erleichtert, wenn man ein bisschen Platz hat, und eine Schraube am AGR praktisch nicht zu erreichen war (im Bild rot markiert). Zum Abnehmen des AGR sind die 3 gezeigten Schrauben zu lösen. Vorher sollte man den Kabelbaum so weit wie möglich lösen und die Stecker trennen. Von unten müssten dann noch die beiden Schrauben der „Abgaszuleitung“ gelöst werden. BissIt's difficult because you need a 10-tooth socket with an extension of about 60cm.


Now, you can finally see the particulate filter from above . Important - be sure to cover the cylinder head, otherwise, one or the other screw will eventually disappear!

"Anyone who has the right tools can now remove the temperature sensor and the oxygen sensor from the top of the DPF – I wasn't able to do it, which meant I had even less space when removing it. There's also the risk of tearing the cables... but ultimately, it worked without damaging anything... Later, when I was working on the removed DPF in a vise, it wasn't a problem."
"I disconnected the two lines leading to the differential pressure sensor from the sensor itself. The lines from the two temperature sensors and the oxygen sensor are connected on the left side (in the direction of travel) to the injection nozzle. Of course, these connections need to be disconnected if you don't want to remove the DPF before removing the parts."

Okay, that's it for now, let's go down one floor. First, remove the lower engine cover, then the crossbar at the back, underneath the exhaust. I had to cut off the screws on the double clamp between the long pipe and the resonator – a new clamp costs about 16 euros. It's best to have one ready beforehand.
Seitlich hinter dem DPF Gehäuse sitzt ein weitere Temperatursensor, den man ebenfalls entfernen sollte. Ich hatte es nicht geschafft, und das Teil beim Ausbau etwas verbogen, wodurch der Sensor kaputt ging. Man kann die Dinger mit einem Ohmmeter am Stecker messen – ich glaube es waren bei Raumtemperatur etwa 215 Ohm. Auf jeden Fall müssten beide Temperaturfühler etwa den gleichen Wert haben. Bei hochohmig oder 0 Ohm ist der Sensor definitiv für die Tonne. EiA repair is not possible.

Now, you need to loosen the clamp connecting the turbocharger and the DPF. I used an extension rod about 50cm long and loosened it from underneath with a cordless screwdriver. Before doing so, apply some anti-seize compound to the threads on the clamp; this will make it easier to fully loosen.

Here's a picture of the open clamp:


Now, loosen the four M8 screws that hold the DPF and the pipe in place – then it will be free.
Attention – don't forget the cable for the lower temperature sensor. It is secured again in a bracket on the heat shield. The connection to the charger may be quite tight – but it should come loose with slight movement of the DPF. The gasket should definitely be replaced during installation (thin stainless steel sheet, approximately €2.60).

Now comes the tricky part. It works without disassembling the axle or anything else, but you should be very careful around the axle boot, as you will inevitably touch it somewhat. I pulled the whole thing out from below, and an assistant had to help guide it from above.

First, the pot needs to be moved downwards and rotated by 180 degrees, which makes it very tight around the heat shield. With a little pressure in the right direction, I managed to create enough space.



Here's another view from the front of the crossbeam, just before the part is completely removed.

That's it! The installation is as usual, in reverse order – but make sure to tighten the lower screws on the DPF housing only after the clamp for the turbocharger is securely fastened.

Good luck!