Injector Nozzles Replacement for Diesel Injection Systems

Hello,

I drive a Volkswagen Golf IV with the engine code AXR, a 1.9L PD TDI, manufactured in November 2002, and it has approximately 240,000 kilometers on the odometer.

I plan to replace the injector nozzles of the PD elements soon.
Replacing the PD elements isn't a particularly difficult task for me, especially since there's a video in this forum that explains exactly how to replace the injectors on the PD elements.

My question is: Is it true that after replacing the electronic diesel control unit (EDC), the fuel injection timing elements need to be readjusted by a diesel specialist?
Many people have advised me against simply replacing the glow plugs because there's a risk that the engine might not start afterwards, or it might run unevenly with poor emissions values, etc., even with new glow plugs installed.

A new glow plug costs between €450 and €650, while the fuel injector is still relatively affordable.

I really need someone who has already done this independently and can give me trustworthy advice on whether I can do it without any concerns or if there are potential risks involved.

Best regards,

vitalis72

Hi, this isn't a simple task. Also, you'll also need the gasket sets for the PDE.
My advice: Stay away if you don't absolutely have to.

Quote:

Replacing the PD elements is not a difficult task for me, as there is also a video in this forum that explains exactly how to replace the injectors on the PD elements. My question is: Is it true that after replacing the electronic diesel injection (ED) unit, the pressure sensor (PD) elements need to be recalibrated by a diesel specialist?

You are contradicting yourself.

On one hand, it's not a problem for you, but on the other hand, you ask...?

Forget it. The video is a "proof of concept" demonstrating how to do it. It's intended for specialists who understand what happens inside a PD element and want to avoid damage during modification.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello,

I know how it works, but I think we're talking past each other.
I would like to know if the common rail injectors need to be tested on any injector testing stand after being replaced.

Adjusting the timing elements in the cylinder head, etc., I can do that; that's not the problem.
I do have the original instructions for aligning and adjusting the rocker arm shaft in the cylinder head for the PD (direct injection) elements.

I hope to get an answer here in the forum.

Best regards,

Hi,

If this helps: I once managed to repair one working PDE from two defective ones. In one, the spring was broken, and in the other, there was a deviation of +2.5 mg due to a blocked nozzle opening.

"It worked, but I haven't been able to use a single PDE without breaking the locating pins. While you can replace them with the shanks of drill bits (available in increments of 0.1mm), getting the broken pieces out is mostly a matter of luck."

Hello,

Thanks for the helpful advice and quick response.

Yes, you can tell from your experience that it's a matter of luck – either the dowels break off, or you get lucky.

My actual question is: If you successfully replace the fuel injectors without damaging anything, do you then need to take the common rail pressure sensor (PD element) to a pump specialist for testing, such as pressure measurement, etc.?
That's actually my question about the whole process.

Best regards,

vitalis33

Quote:

It worked, however, I haven't received a single PDE yet without breaking the dowel pins.

Then you should watch the video.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

No, there's nothing that can be adjusted on the PD element (with normal effort), and if there were, everything would have to be disassembled anyway. Then you wouldn't even need to install the nozzle yourself.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello,

So, if I understand your answer correctly, I could easily replace the fuel injectors and sealing rings.

Ich hinterfrage die ganze Sache, weil mir mal erzählt worden war, das nach Tausch der Düseneinsätze die PD Elemente auf einem Prüfstand müssen zwecks einer Feineinstellung der Düsenöffnungsdrücke usw,.. weil, wenn Notwendig dies durch Austausch der feinen dünnen Distanz bzw, dichtplättchen zwischen Einspritzdüse u. PD Element dazu dient das PD Element genau u. Präzise eto hire.
I was told that simply replacing the fuel injectors is not difficult. However, it was explained that without testing the injectors on a test bench beforehand, there's no certainty whether the injectors will negatively affect the engine's exhaust emissions. This could lead to consequences such as the engine failing to start or running unevenly, among other issues.

Apparently, they are available in various thicknesses as part of a product range, similar to the shims used to adjust valve clearance in vehicles with hydraulic lifters.

Best regards,

vitalis33

Quote:

only without checking the nozzles on a test stand, there is no certainty whether the nozzles are working properly unless they have been checked beforehand.

Correct: Without checking, you don't know if everything is working properly.

You'll quickly notice if you've messed something up when starting it. Checking the idle speed control with VCDS is essential, as are checking the PD states BEFORE (and after) the conversion. Because if the PD element itself is damaged or defective, you can save yourself the trouble of doing the conversion.

If the PD elements previously delivered poor results, then simply replacing the nozzles might not improve things, depending on what is worn out or defective.
If everything was fine beforehand and you didn't make any mistakes, then everything will be okay afterward as well. The emphasis is on "not making any mistakes," which isn't exactly easy on the first try.
You can then simply install new nozzles with a nice spray pattern (which can also be tested without a pressure distribution element and is often recommended by nozzle suppliers), or use different nozzles altogether if needed.

If you are the end customer and simply want to drive the car, stay away from performance (PD) modules. There is a chance that you will damage the modules or the engine, especially if it's your first time using them; in fact, it's quite likely.

Nowadays, I think that with the older fuel injectors on engines with distributor injection pumps, more people have ruined their cars through improper repairs than if they had simply continued driving with the worn-out injectors. With common rail (PD) systems, it's a bit more complicated, and you have to be even more careful.
Simply attaching the PD units to the control unit can be a challenge in itself with some engines.

The trendy "Geilgeizer" (likely referring to a specific product or brand) often encounters problems because of: a) inferior new products from China that are already defective, b) poor quality control (I've seen what people send in, and 80% is far too carelessly made), and c) the fact that you only get one chance, namely the first attempt. Because no one is born perfect, option c) usually prevails, even if options a) and b) are successfully overcome.

Best regards, Rainer.

vitalis72 wrote:

Apparently, they are available in various thicknesses as part of a product range, similar to the shims used to adjust valve clearance in vehicles with hydraulic lifters. vitalis33

That's almost the same thing. You can find shims in various thicknesses to fit specific pump drive elements (PDEs), and also those "knebelkerbstift" pins that are prone to breaking, which are available from Bosch.
But individually, not as an assortment. Unless you put it together yourself.
Bosch ships them from the factory as PCEs (10 pieces per type). Whether you have to accept them like that or can get them individually, you may need to discuss this with your Bosch parts dealer.
Unlike the nozzles, this is just petty stuff.

Hello Steffen,
Where can I get the centering pins and the "adjustment plates" for the PD elements?
Unfortunately, I can't find any information about that at Bosch.
Do you perhaps have a tip or an address where I can obtain them?
Or can I simply use DIN 1475 reamer pins?
How do I get the broken pencils out?
Erode?
Thank you very much in advance for your effort.

Best regards,

Hello,

The upper clamping pins have the Bosch part numbers 1 413 127 014 and 1 413 127 015, which means they are two different types.

The lower clamping pins have the Bosch part numbers 1 413 127 016 and 1 413 127 017, which are also two different types.

For the (upper) "1mm adjustment shim," the part number is 1 410 067 016. For the lower one (adjustment disc), it's listed as "selection group: adjustment shims." Unfortunately, since we don't have a Bosch representative here, I can't look up the part numbers for the specific shim thicknesses.

"Oh, I'm sorry, I didn't realize I had been directly contacted. I've now taken the part number PDE 0417720089 from the 3bg with 131 horsepower."
The numbers mentioned by the previous speaker are likely correct. However, since I lack all the data for your vehicle, I cannot determine if this applies to your specific car.

"Pump nozzle units are complex systems. If the car is supposed to move forward, I would advise against using those DIN universal marking pins."
The question itself is quite strange considering the topic.
The lower lens (selection group) is available in thicknesses ranging from 1.00 mm to 1.43 mm. For example, the 1.00 mm thickness has the number 1410067016, and the 1.43 mm thickness has the number 1410067162.
It always increments by steps of two hundredths of a millimeter.

Die Teile kann man ganz normal bei Bosch bestellen, wenn man da eine Kundennummer hat. Endverbraucher müssen halt zum Bosch Partner gehen .Und jeder Bosch Partner kann die Teilenummern auch raussuchen. Usually.

For small parts like these, Bosch often only ships them in bulk packaging (VPE). Usually, it's 10 pieces per package, but in this case, it's just a minor amount.

For the adjustment shims used in pressure discharge (PD) elements, I would strongly recommend using the ones that are already included with the specific PD element.
It is NOT possible to adjust the PD (pupillary distance) elements using home remedies, so different or alternative pads are pointless.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello everyone,

Thank you for your responses.

I was able to purchase the original pens individually. Within the DIN series, only the one with a 1.5mm tip was available; the other with a 1.8mm tip was no longer offered. Some people use a long drill bit as a substitute.

I would have liked to use the original leveling shims, but unfortunately, they were lost when a curious colleague accidentally knocked them off while "playing around."
I also received a replacement part here, which I have been testing and adjusting on the test bench, and then spraying all four nozzles with a documented procedure.
allow.

The vehicle is running again for now... let's see how long it lasts.

Regards,

micha

Grmbl gmpf, I thought it would be so easy to change them, but it seems like you can't do it without breaking these pens... or are there any new findings on that now?

It's definitely not as simple as it looks in the video... just holding it with a pair of pliers like that.