Replacing rear brake discs on a G3 - difficult?

Hello everyone.

I need to replace my rear windshields sometime.
Unfortunately, they aren't screwed onto the hub, but are instead part of the hub itself, into which, according to my repair manuals, the outer bearing rings are also pressed.

You have to use a hammer and a nail to get them out and put them back in.

"In practice, would medium-sized hammers, weighing up to about 300 grams, and a set of punches with a diameter of up to about 4 mm be sufficient for the work?"

"Does it often break, so that I should probably buy the relevant parts (which ones?) at the same time?"

How is the ABS sensor ring attached to the disc/hub?

Thank you for any assistance!

Hi Ulf,

Taking the pallets out and putting them back in is not particularly difficult.
If the bearings have already been used for a long time, you might as well replace them with new ones. They're not that expensive, and I wouldn't want to have to do the same work again in about 10,000 km. When replacing a bearing, the seal is usually included, and it often suffers damage during the removal process anyway.
However, if possible, I would use aluminum studs, as this reduces the risk of damaging the tire treads. Unfortunately, I don't have any information about the ABS ring. I assume it's screwed on.

Hello,
The ABS ring is simply attached and can be easily removed, cleaned, and reattached to the new disc.

Regards,

Andy.

Hello Ulf!

As mentioned above, removing and reinstalling the brake disc is not difficult. The choice of brake discs is more important. I would not use "no-name" discs. At a minimum, you should use ATE discs and pads. Although the braking force on the rear wheels is relatively low, I have often encountered vehicles that, after half or a normal lifespan, returned with completely worn-out brake discs.

Even with branded brake rotors, the mounting points are more precise; there's no risk of the rotor getting stuck or being forced into place (I've seen it all). On my Galaxy, I applied new brake pads to the front and rear, and I masked off the areas that contact the brake disc and the rim , then painted them with brake paint (silver, of course, not red or any other color ). This worked very well; there was no rust, and they always looked like new. Even the ventilation channels of the front ventilated brake discs were painted. I've seen brake discs that were completely rusted on the fins between the ventilation channels, causing them to break apart. The rest of the car didn't look good at all, but I think the guy might be able to get it running again.

Of course, it's just a bit of fun, but it's worth it for vehicles that sit around for a long time.

Greetings from Graz, Peter.

Hello,

Thank you for your tips.

Then I'll get around to it soon.

Hi Ulf,

I don't know which brake system you have, but please check the two guide pins of the brake caliper . They tend to rust and seize over time, which can quickly cause new rotors to rust . So, a little grease and a new rubber boot won't hurt . Which tool did you buy to retract the rear brake piston?

Best regards, Christian.

I wouldn't buy a special tool for turning the piston back for personal use. I do it with a large C-clamp to apply some pressure, and then turn the piston back using a wrench. You have to constantly adjust the C-clamp and be careful not to damage the dust seals. It's a bit fiddly, but it's doable.

Hi Felix,

I have successfully pushed the brake pistons back twice using a suitable disc and round steel rod with a rotating motion and simultaneous pressure . However, a member of the forum had something to complain about:

Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

Hi Christian,
Of course, you're not allowed to damage anything, and you shouldn't apply too much pressure. But if you proceed carefully, it can also be done without special tools.
Because the specialized pliers can only do so much, namely squeeze and rotate. So, let's continue like this.

Hi,
I'm doing it exactly the same way as Felix.
You just have to avoid being too hasty, otherwise you might end up accidentally damaging a cufflink.

haehnlein wrote:

Which tool did you buy to retract the rear brake caliper pistons?

Hi Christian,

not at all... I'll first try to push the piston in by screwing it in with a suitable flat bar or something similar .

If that doesn't work, I'll reassemble everything as it was and look for a cheap tool solution.

Timing isn't a major concern for this project (the TÜV inspection was completed last fall).

Hi Ulf,

You can do without the tool... (I bought one once, but it doesn't fit our Audi )... and as I said, make a suitable plate with a "handle," then only loosen one screw on the brake caliper, open it up, and with pressure and a twist, it's really not a problem at all .

haehnlein wrote:

Make a suitable plate with a "handle", then loosen the brake caliper on just one screw, open it up, and with pressure and a twisting motion, it's really not a problem at all

.

Hi Christian,

aha, so as usual
It's good that the TDI doesn't stand out too much .