VCDS plugged in overnight -> 9V battery

Hi.

I just removed the entire front assembly from my 3C because the horn, SRA pump, and the associated hoses were faulty.

To test the repaired hoses, I connected VCDS yesterday evening and used the actuator diagnostics function to run the pumps.
Laptop off, car on... Rest period.

This morning I connected the SRA, and it seemed sluggish. From the cockpit, I heard a "bing-bing-bing" sound.

AAAAAAhhhhhhhh, with the ignition on, only 8.6 volts, ignition off, 9 volts.

Is this a realistic scenario after a night of using a diagnostic cable (without a laptop connected), or is it more likely a sign that the battery is weakening?

I definitely need to charge it first... while I'm putting the front together.

m;

Hi Martin!

With my A4 (KKL, not CAN!), where I drove with many logs at night, I accidentally left the OBD cable plugged in for over 3 or 5 days, also without a laptop connected, and the battery was not noticeably drained.

Since you have CAN, it's possible that your central gateway might not want to go to sleep because of a potentially infected diagnostic cable.

Best regards from Munich!

I also think it might have something to do with the bus quiet zone. The power consumption of the diagnostic system itself is minimal.

Best regards, Rainer.

I also think that the lack of peace and quiet on the bus, or its absence, is the cause.

What surprised me was that just one night was enough to make it so that "nothing more" was possible afterward.

On the other hand, if you just insert an ammeter and measure the current (I*t), you can quickly determine if a battery is weak.

What do you think I've done to my battery?

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Hi I'm currently taking the entire front end off my 3C. ...

Was the breech of the firearm also demilitarized?
Does the vehicle have a car alarm system?

Well, if you're hoping for a quiet bus ride, you'll be waiting a long time. Everyone involved was probably very alert.
Typical "repair damage." This happens to some workshops with surprising regularity.

It probably has little to do with VCDS .

Didn't you have "problems" /viewtopic.php?t=20316 before?

dieselmartin wrote:

What is your assessment of what I have done to my battery with this?

A 9V residual voltage, depending on the (small) load, is, in my opinion, in the range of a deep discharge, which normal starter batteries are sensitive to.
-> If you don't have a cycle-proof type, the action of the first [item/thing] might be problematic. To be a nail in the coffin of the battery.

Yes, I've stressed the battery before.

- 11 hours of continuous light.
- Brief power surge when starting the Corsa.
- Now, let's use VCDS.

Someday, she won't forgive me.

Today (Monday), the tractor started without any problems, after I had connected a charger to it on Saturday for the duration of the front assembly.

The front was disassembled (so the turn signals, fog lights, and temperature sensor were removed), but the hood was closed and the tractor was locked.

The first night without VCDS wasn't a problem.
the second one, already with VCDS


m;

Oops.

I think the battery is completely dead.

This morning, after being stationary for 2 days and having previously driven 250 km on the highway twice, I tinkered with the climate control coding (according to...). Coding.log was only running for 2 minutes (let's make it 15 minutes), and then it stopped starting.

Quick start and everything was perfect - a perfect cold start.

Can a battery sometimes refuse to work, but otherwise function normally?

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Can a battery sometimes not want to work, but otherwise function normally?

I think no, otherwise there would be more discussion in the forums about battery-related issues like "battery migraines" or similar.

In what symptoms did the unwillingness manifest itself?
Did the lights go out when you tried to start it?
Did the lights stay on, and was there absolutely no sound coming from the front?
Is the starter motor already in place? Compression stuck?

Quote:

Quickly charged and everything was wonderful

. How long was "quick," and how many amps did you put into the battery?

Quote:

In which symptoms did the "not wanting" manifest itself?

I turned it quite a bit, about 2-3 rotations, and then the relay started flickering.

Quote:

How long was "short", and how many amps did you push into the battery?

Hmm, I'm sorry, I don't remember that anymore.

Do you think I might have also been actively supplying charging current to the dying battery, essentially torturing it even more?

The charging voltage was around 13.3 volts.
After the successful start, there were (logically) 14.4 volts, and the alternator indicated that it was operating at 32% under idle conditions.


m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Do you mean that I also actively supplied charging current to the dying battery, essentially torturing it even more?

It certainly wouldn't have been 13.3 V, which is less than what the alternator provided at 14.4 V after starting.

Okay,

she is dod

Sunday, 500 km.
Tuesday is a day off.
-> charged
A few days ago, it started without any problems.
Tonight, Friday evening, a little more VCDS again:
I watched as the tension dissipated in the BNSTG. At 10.9 volts, I quickly pressed the starter. Ugh, clack, so about half a turn, and then the relay chamber starts flickering.

I've now locked it with the hood open.
The quiescent current seems very low (10 mA with the jumpers set to 25), so it's probably not that.

Oh man, why again 165 EUR ?

m;

Why is it so expensive?

Hutfahrer wrote:

Why is it so expensive?

I don't understand that either. A cheaper battery instead of the original probably would have lasted 4 years too... so far, every battery I've used has lasted longer.

Best regards, Rainer.

The Peugeot 206 1.4 HDI still has the original factory-installed battery - a Varta Silver with a production date stamp from 2005. That means this battery is almost a year older than the car itself, so it was probably sitting in a warehouse somewhere before being installed. Since I bought the car in 2007 as a nearly-new model, a "power brick" has been installed, which is supposed to prevent sulfation. I don't know if the Varta Silver batteries would last that long on their own. Some car owners were not happy with them and wrote about it in various forums. Satisfied people tend to write about it less often.

I'm curious to see how long it will last, or whether it will die during the upcoming winter. Some people suggest replacing it preventatively due to its age, but I personally don't think that's necessary. I've had jump cables for two years, but so far I've only used them to help other people. However, they're also a good thing to have if you ever need a jump start for your own vehicle. Someone always ends up helping.

Martin's 2.0 TDI probably has the same 95Ah battery as mine.

Unfortunately, they cost a lot.
The cheapest battery I found costs 120€ (a no-name brand).
If you're looking for a Banner, Varta, or similar product, you can be happy to only have to spend 165€.
You can easily spend over €200 for a battery like that.