VCDS: Overnight Connection Drains Battery to 9V

Hi.

I just removed the entire front assembly from my 3C because the horn, SRA pump, and associated hoses were faulty.

To test the repaired hoses, I connected VCDS yesterday evening and used the actuator diagnostic function to run the pumps.
Laptop ab, Auto zu ... Sleep.

This morning I connected the SRA, and it seemed sluggish; from the cockpit, I heard a "bing-bing-bing" sound.

AAAAAAhhhhhhhh with the ignition on, only 8.6 volts, ignition off, 9 volts.

Is this realistic after a night with a diagnostic cable (without a laptop connected), or is it more likely a sign that the battery is weakening?

I definitely need to charge it first... while I assemble the front part.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi Martin!

With my A4 (without CAN bus!), where I drove many miles collecting logs at night, I accidentally left the OBD cable plugged in for over 3 or 5 days – also without a laptop connected – and the battery wasn't noticeably drained.

Since you have CAN, it's possible that your central gateway didn't want to go into sleep mode because of a potentially infected diagnostic cable.

Best regards from Munich!

I also think it might be related to the bus activity. The power consumption of the diagnostic system itself is very low.

Best regards, Rainer.

I also think that the lack of bus quietness, or rather, the absence of it, is the cause.

What surprised me was that just one night was enough to make it so that "nothing more" would work afterwards.

On the other hand, if you just insert an ammeter and measure the current (I * t), you can quickly determine if a battery is weak.

What do you think I did to my battery?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Hi I just replaced the entire front end on my Mk3 Golf. ...

Was the breech of the firearm also demilitarized?
Does the vehicle have a car alarm system?

Well, if that's the case, you can expect a long wait for peace and quiet on the bus. It seems all the students were wide awake.
"Typical damage caused during repair." This happens to some workshops with frustrating regularity.

It probably has little to do with VCDS .

Didn't you have "problems" https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=20316 before?

dieselmartin wrote:

What is your assessment of what I have done to my battery with this?

A residual voltage of 9V, depending on the (small) load, seems to be in the range of a deep discharge, which normal starter batteries are sensitive to.
-> If you don't have a cycle-stable battery type, this action is likely to be the final nail in the coffin for your battery.

Yes, I've stressed the battery before.

- 11 hours of continuous light.
- Brief power surge when starting the Corsa.
- Now, let's move on to VCDS.

Someday, she won't forgive me for it.

Today (Monday), the tractor started without any problems after I had connected a battery charger to it for the duration of the front assembly on Saturday.

The front was detached (meaning the turn signals, fog lights, and temperature sensor were removed), but the hood was closed and the tractor was locked.

The first night without VCDS wasn't a problem.
the second one, already with VCDS then .


Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Oops.

I think the battery is completely dead.

This morning, after being parked for 2 days and having previously driven 2 x 250 km on the highway, I tinkered with the climate control coding (according to the log file, only for 2 minutes, let's say 15 minutes), and now it won't start.

Quickly charged and everything was great - perfect cold start.

Can a battery sometimes refuse to work, but otherwise function normally?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Can a battery sometimes not want to work, but otherwise be fine?

IMO no, otherwise there would be more discussion about "battery migraines" or similar issues in online forums.

In what symptoms did the unwillingness manifest itself?
Did the lights go out when you tried to start it?
Did the lights stay on, and was there absolutely nothing audible happening in the front?
Is the starter motor stuck at the first compression stroke?

Quote:

Quickly charged and everything was wonderful

. How long was "quick," and how many amps did you put into the battery?

Quote:

In which symptoms did the unwillingness manifest itself?

I turned it very tightly, about 2-3 rotations, and then the relay started flickering.

Quote:

How long did "short" last, and how many amps did you push into the battery during that time?

Hmm, I'm afraid I don't remember that anymore.

Do you think I also actively supplied charging current to the dying battery, thus further torturing it?

The charging voltage was around 13.3 volts.
After the successful start, there were (naturally) 14.4 volts, and the alternator indicated that it was operating at 32% under idle conditions.


Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Do you mean that I also actively supplied charging current to the dying battery, essentially torturing it even more?

It certainly wouldn't have been 13.3V, which is less than what the alternator produced at 14.4V after starting.

Okay,

she is dead

Sunday: 500 km.
Tuesday off.
-> charged
For a few days, it ran fine and started without any problems.
Tonight, Friday evening, a little more VCDS again:
I watched as the tension dissipated in the BNSTG. At 10.9 volts, I quickly pressed the starter... Ugh, a clacking sound, so about half a rotation, and then the relay (chamber) started flickering.

I've now locked it with the hood open.
The quiescent current seems very low (10mA with the jumpers set to 25), so it's probably not that.

Oh man, why again 165 EUR ?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Why is it so expensive?

Hutfahrer wrote:

Why is it so expensive?

I don't understand that either. A cheaper battery instead of the original would probably have lasted for 4 years too... so far, every battery I've used has actually lasted longer.

Best regards, Rainer.

The Peugeot 206 1.4 HDI still has the original factory-installed battery - a Varta Silver with a production date stamp from 2005. That means this battery is almost a year older than the car itself, so it was probably sitting in storage somewhere before being installed. Since I bought the car in 2007 as a nearly new model, a "power brick" has been installed to help prevent sulfation. I don't know if the Varta Silver batteries would last that long on their own. Some vehicle owners were unhappy with them and wrote about it in online forums. Those who are satisfied tend not to write about it very often.

I'm curious to see how long it will last or if it will die during the upcoming winter. Some people suggest replacing it preventatively due to its age, but I personally don't think that's necessary. I've had jump cables for two years now, but so far I've only used them to help others. However, they are also a good thing to have if you ever need a jump start for your own vehicle. Someone is usually willing to help.

Martin's 2.0 TDI probably has the same type of battery as mine, a 95Ah battery.

Unfortunately, they cost a lot of money.
The cheapest battery I found costs €120 (a no-name brand).
If you're looking for a Banner, Varta, or similar product, you can be happy to only have to spend €165.
You can easily spend over €200 on a battery like that.