Turbocharger Solenoid Valve Replacement - No Fix? Help!

Hi, I already mentioned that my 1Z is still experiencing jerking, even after replacing the timing belt, injectors, and NBF (negative feedback), and now also the turbocharger boost control valve.
That's why I'm telling you the whole story, because I'm at the end of my rope, and I'm also broke .

Okay, so I have a Volkswagen Golf 3, 1.9 TDI engine (1Z), 90 horsepower, 190,000 kilometers (approximately 118,000 miles), manufactured in March 1994.

Last year, I had a problem where the engine was unstable at low RPMs and only accelerated intermittently.
I went to VW, and they noticed that the front section was completely out of alignment with the diagram.
According to Volkswagen, the cause is a slipped timing belt!
I thought he's already there now, so they might as well change the timing belt while they're at it.
Timing belt replaced, front end adjusted. The problem was still there.
VW was at a loss for what to do. After a lot of inquiries among my colleagues at Opel, Mercedes, Bosch, and even occasionally VW.
Is it possible that a valve might not be working correctly?
So, during the winter, I replaced the head, installed new injectors, a new NBF (presumably a component), and new glow plugs.
'Now the vehicle is registered again. It still vibrates, but only at low speeds. I've already replaced the boost pressure valve, but it's still happening, although now it's closer to the middle of the diagram. I also feel like it doesn't have the same power as before. And it also starts running rough (erratically) after a short time when it's idling, as if something is misfiring.'

Please help me and don't send me back to the search function, I've already tried everything there .

I've already driven without the LMM, and it doesn't change anything about the jerking, and the diagnostic tool also doesn't show any errors.

Hi.

already checked.

- Is the timing belt pulley loose on the crankshaft?
- Is the pump broken?
- Are the sprinkler lines/filters leaking?
- Are the air filter and intake passages clear?

Hi Oil Sheikh,

again: use the search function

"Here in this forum, there have been (and still are) many 1Z engines with rough running. Yours is certainly not an isolated case. All 1Z engines that have been repaired to the extent that yours has (including my old one!) point to a faulty ESP as the likely cause. Some people have replaced the pump and then shared their experiences here (and the rough running disappeared)."

Just a small tip on the side: A pulsating sensation from the fuel pump should no longer be noticeable if the speed sensor (located at the rear of the transmission) is disconnected (and that's indeed the case!). We don't know why this is the case, but there are various theories about it from me, Ulf, Rainer, Gremlin, and many others that I may have forgotten.

If you use the search function and enter terms like "pump jerk" or "jerky 1Z," you will find these threads. Usually, these topics explain everything about your problem.

Hi Oil Sheikh,

Look, as Ulf already mentioned, check the KW screw to rule it out.

http://home.arcor.de/sgrafen/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html

What is the starting behavior when the engine is cold and when it is warm?

Best regards, Christian.

Hello, no, the Kw screw is fine; that has already been checked, but I noticed something else today .
'So, I've removed the cap from the fuel injector nozzle. Now the question is, shouldn't the plunger be able to move back and forth with your finger?'
Am I wrong here? Does it matter if there's something inside?
There, actually, nothing was happening .
If the pump is faulty, who knows how much it costs? Or can it be refurbished by Bosch?

Greetings from the Sheikh (middle, almost no oil).

ölscheich wrote:

If the pump is broken, who knows how much it will cost.

I was quoted a price of 1500 euros.

Quote:

...or can they be serviced/repaired by Bosch?

Yes, a good Bosch service center with a proper diesel department can do that.

Yes, does that mean that if the piston cannot be moved back and forth with a finger, it is junk?
The funny thing is, yesterday, after I re-screwed the cap back on, I poured some diesel cleaner into the tank, and the engine stopped shaking!!
But I have the feeling he's not reacting as aggressively as before; instead, he's just going through the motions, but everything is much more comfortable. Could this also be due to the new compression?

ölscheich wrote:

Yesterday, after I reattached the cap, I poured some diesel cleaner into the tank, and the engine stopped shaking!! But I have the feeling he's not reacting as aggressively as before; instead, he's just going through the motions, but everything is much more relaxed. Could this also be due to the new compression?

Hi.

This indicates that there were residues in the pump that were preventing the injection timing from being adjusted properly.
Can you measure the steady-state performance (technical article on pump settings)?

And what do you mean by "new compression"?

ölscheich wrote:

But I have the feeling he's not reacting as aggressively as before, but he's still pushing through, although in a much more comfortable way. Could this also be due to the new compression

Hi,

Have you reset the fuel injection amount to the value before removing the cover (measured with VAG-COM)? Perhaps the cause was an overly rich pump setting. } My pump was also set too rich once -> the engine ran poorly, but it jerked at low RPMs!

On eBay, you might get lucky and find refurbished pumps for around 350 euros!

I can also recommend Henzo!

Best regards, Christian.

And what do you mean by 'new compression'???[/quote]
What I mean is that my old head gasket was already very damaged, and now there are all new gaskets in place.
Ne, how can I measure the activity? And what I also noticed when I opened the injector nozzle cover was that there were slight scratches in the guide of the piston.
Is the pump working like this now, or am I going to be completely flooded soon? }