Parking Brake Free Play: MOT Requirements?

Hello,

During the last vehicle inspection (HU), my Ibiza had some minor issues, including a slightly excessive free travel on the handbrake.

Here's the background: My car has a handbrake lever for rear drum brakes because I replaced the intrusive Cupra interior, including the red-stitched leather handbrake lever, with the standard parts from a smaller, less powerful Ibiza.
Until the swap, I didn't know that the lever lengths for drum and disc brakes are apparently designed to be different. Afterwards, I noticed that my new lever could be pulled up about 30% further, even with the same cable length adjustment, and that it produced more braking force with the same amount of hand force.
The comparison to the platform sibling, the ASZ-Polo, which has the same rear brake and a standard lever, clearly shows that its brake engages earlier, but with the same hand force, it performs worse.

While I find the responsiveness and adjustability of my handbrake to be significantly better than in the Polo, the TÜV inspector apparently noticed the "long" free travel before it engages.
Since I know of other cars that have a much longer handbrake travel distance than my "modified" Ibiza, I'm wondering (or, rather, I'm asking you ) based on which normal or target values my handbrake travel distance was considered a problem .

Hi Ulf!

In VAG systems, the initial adjustment is typically set so that the wheels are very difficult to turn by hand in the first parking brake position. From the second or third position, a clearly measurable braking effect should be present on the rear axle.

Adjust the central alignment and see if you can get it right.

Best regards from Munich!

DieselBär30x wrote:

At VAG, the initial setting is such that the wheels in the first handbrake position can only be turned very difficultly by hand. From the 2nd/3rd position, a clearly measurable braking effect should be present on the rear axle.

Ah yes, if the inspector assumes this habit, my handbrake probably seems too loosely adjusted to him, because it generally engages about one tooth later than you describe.
Perhaps I should just file down the 1st tooth .

...and before Matthias writes what he thinks you're really thinking:

Yes, there's another approach to weight loss .

Best regards from Munich!

....which implies: if the handbrake applies maximum force after three clicks, then all subsequent clicks can be removed. I don't know how many there are, but it's certainly more than one . Therefore, it has significantly more potential .


Okay, just kidding. I was actually wondering the other day, because the same thing is happening to my Golf, which is to be expected after 10 years. If that's the guideline, I'll follow it, because I can now pull the handbrake (I estimate) 4, maybe even 5, clicks.

The travel of the handbrake lever for a disc brake system must be such that, in the lowest lever position (rest position), both levers at the brake calipers, which are actuated by the cables, are in contact with the end stop (on the brake caliper).
Too often, the handbrake is adjusted too tightly out of misguided ambition (even by well-meaning individuals), resulting in a situation where the lever usually doesn't return to its resting position.
If you push this back against the stop using a tool, the other side will release from its stop (a clear sign that the brake cable is adjusted too tightly).
Translation: If the travel distance of the adjustment mechanism on the saddle is limited, the adjustment mechanism may not function correctly, and it will no longer be able to compensate for brake pad wear.
The "travel" of the lever on the brake caliper is now increased, which significantly reduces braking effectiveness. Additionally, there is a risk of the lever becoming stuck on the caliper because its movement is limited.
At HU, there is no regulation regarding the angle of the handbrake lever.
If the brake is set too loosely (the levers on the brake caliper are already in their end position, but the handbrake lever is already engaged), you'll notice it by the barely perceptible resistance on the handbrake lever. It's only when the cables start to move the levers on the caliper that you feel the need to apply force. The correct adjustment follows from this. You only need to adjust it if the cables stretch over time.

Quote:

Too often, the parking brake is adjusted too tightly out of misguided ambition (even by those who are friendly), so that most of the time, one of the levers does not return to its end stop (resting position). If you then push this back until it hits the stop, the other side will release from its stop (a clear sign that the brake cable is adjusted "too short")

.

Basically, you're right, but:

For example, in the Golf 4, this is a factory specification. Within a range of about one millimeter, it doesn't affect the function of the handbrake.
This also increases the potential return travel distance (instead of a fixed engagement) for the brake, especially when the brake is heavily engaged.

Quote:

Since I know of other cars that have a much longer parking brake travel distance than my "modified" Ibiza, I wonder (or rather, I'm asking you icon_wink.gif) based on which normal or target values my parking brake travel distance was deemed problematic icon_eek.gif

To the best of my knowledge, there is no fixed size requirement for this from the TÜV (German technical inspection authority), but there should still be sufficient clearance up to the maximum limit.

I think the examiner probably found her too soft, so he might have given her a...
"I suspect there's a defect. I would adjust them like on a Golf 4, and that should be good."

Hi,
Basically, there's a difference depending on whether the rear brakes are drum brakes or disc brakes.
Drum brakes: For complete adjustment, for example after replacing the brake pads, first fully release the parking brake, meaning also releasing any slack in the parking brake cable. Then, adjust the automatic adjuster by repeatedly pressing the foot brake. Tighten the parking brake lever by two notches and pre-tension the parking brake cable with the adjustment nut so that the wheels are difficult to turn by hand. When the brake is released, the wheels must rotate freely; otherwise, slightly loosen the parking brake cable.
Disc brakes: Model-dependent - for example, according to the RLF (German vehicle registration authority), the brake levers should just touch the two calipers on the Audi 80 B4. On the Polo V, the gap between the brake levers and the stop should not exceed 1.5 mm (according to Korp; I have not yet checked the RLF information).
The basic adjustment involves: releasing the handbrake, loosening the brake cable and then tightening it at the adjustment nut so that when the brake lever is fully depressed, the brake lever on the other side just doesn't lift off, or the specified clearance is not exceeded. Then, by repeatedly operating the foot brake, adjust the self-adjusting mechanism in the brake calipers. This should ensure the handbrake functions correctly. With the handbrake released, check the wheels to ensure they rotate freely.
If the automatic adjustment mechanism is already engaged, I would not increase the pre-tension of the brake levers (clearance), otherwise the clearance between the brake pads and the disc will decrease. In that case, I would first reset the automatic adjustment mechanism.
hg
Herbert.

For the drum brake rear axle of my 206, the following approach is used:

Handbremse einstellen: Die Handbremse stellt sich automatisch nach, entsprechend dem Verschleiss an Bremsbelaegen und -trommeln. Das Einstellen wird nur dann erforderlich, wenn der Handbremshebel oder die Bremsseile ausgetauscht wurden oder die Bremswirkung als Folge gelaengter Handbremsseile nicht ausreichend ist. Bitte gib mir den Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Now, fully release the handbrake lever to its resting position. Use the foot brake by repeatedly and firmly pressing it to ensure the brake pads are properly engaged, and continue to hold the pedal down. Loosen the adjustment nut for the handbrake cable. Pull the handbrake lever to the sixth notch and then tighten the adjustment nut very slightly (4...6 Nm). Release the foot brake and bring the handbrake lever back to its resting position. Never replace or lubricate the adjustment nut; it has a special thread! If the adjustment nut is damaged, remove the entire handbrake lever assembly and replace it.

Checking the correct adjustment: With the vehicle slightly raised, none of the rear wheels should exhibit a noticeable braking effect when the handbrake lever is in the resting position and the brake pads slip during manual wheel spin. Initially, there may be a slight scraping noise, but this should disappear after a few wheel rotations.

A slight braking effect, which should not cause the rear wheels to lock up when turned manually, may occur as soon as the handbrake lever is pulled to the first notch. You do not need to correct this, unless the customer requests it. Now, move the handbrake lever to the second notch. It should no longer be possible to turn the rear wheels manually. The vehicle, when released, should still be able to be moved when starting with the handbrake in the second notch. The rear wheels should lock up or prevent starting when the handbrake lever is pulled to the third notch. However, the rear wheels only locking up in the fourth notch is not necessarily a reason to adjust the setting, unless the customer specifically requests it. [...]