Rust on Sill: Original or Fake?

Hello!

While renovating my T4, I found a small area in the rocker panel that had been filled with foam.

I don't know if it was the previous owners, you know, people tend to blame construction workers for a lot of things.
What's problematic is that only the area between the two sheets was actually foamed.
"And I didn't actually find a real hole in that spot. It also doesn't look like the kind of foam that a regular construction worker would use."

Does anyone know that sometimes?
What was that originally intended for?

Quote:

Does anyone ever know that? What was that originally intended for?

I don't know about the T3. Regarding the older Audi A3, I'm 100% certain that the sills are partially foam-filled from the factory.

I could imagine that the reason might be to avoid vibrations or something similar.

Often referred to as an acoustic measure, but it's actually located in a different area.

Hi!

On this occasion, I'd like to take the opportunity to continue here.

I did a little more work on it today.
Please provide the image so I can translate the text.
So, I cut out the rusted metal sheet.
adjusted the patch panel.
Above the seam, I will make holes and then weld them using the MAG device, as I don't foresee any problems with that.
Below, I will be bending a sheet of metal to fit, which will cover the inner sill. I'm sure I can manage that.

I'm asking because I don't like doing this kind of work, and I rarely do it.
What's the best way to work on the front of the repair panel, especially around all those curves?

I have access to an oxy-acetylene welding setup, and I'm fairly good at using it, but it also wastes a lot of gas.
Should I spot weld along the edge?
Brazing?
Soft soldering with a gas-heated soldering iron?

Since it's my own vehicle, I expect it to be well-made and durable.
Actually, the TÜV (German technical inspection agency) doesn't really care how I do it.

Quote:

Question, because I don't like doing such work, and I rarely do it: What's the best way to do it at the front, on the repair panel, in all those curves?

"Personally, I prefer to weld the ends together, if possible. Because there is no overlap, it's much easier to restore the rust protection. Additionally, there's nothing extra that needs to be addressed, such as any bulging or areas that would normally require soldering."

You can also use spot welding and then soft solder (tin) the joint.
To ensure that nothing comes loose during soldering, a few additional weld points need to be added at the corners.

Normally, a welding primer should be applied between the sheets (where there is overlap) because it is very difficult to achieve effective rust protection in that area.

By the way: With just one clamp and without any support, the repair panel can be easily damaged.

Autoservice wrote:

By the way: With just one clamp and without any support, the repair panel can be easily damaged.

Hello!

Yes, that was just lightly secured for the photo shoot.

I have that kind of welding primer, but I've never used it before. I'll give it a try.
Otherwise, simply weld them together.
but with MAG, right?

I would use MIG welding here, and actually weld the entire sheet metal piece.
Just apply it in short intervals to prevent warping.

Regarding foam.

"In some T4 models, foam was used in the sill area. This wasn't just in the front, at the entrance, but also further back, at the seams of the middle and rear side panels. There have been several instances of rust problems in these areas due to trapped moisture. I've observed foam-filled pillars in T4 models up to the year '98-'99, but not in later models. My 2000 T4 Caravelle didn't have any foam anywhere. Before I completely coated it with wax, I inspected the cavities with a stethoscope, and there was no foam!"

I always weld the precisely cut sheet metal seams together in short, individual spots until a complete seam is formed. Then I apply solder, followed by a primer sprayed on the inside, and finally, a generous amount of wax.

Greetings,

Peter.

The rust on the wheel arch is probably caused by the driver's door not closing properly, right? Our T4 has the same problem.

If you're familiar with this issue, please let me know if the hinge can be adjusted and whether that would resolve the problem.