White smoke on startup: High fuel consumption, no power

I know I've posted about my problem several times before.
'I'm experiencing a jerking sensation within a specific RPM range. Someone suggested replacing the pump as a solution. However, since I didn't want to spend that much money, I decided to just keep driving with the jerking and try to avoid that RPM range as much as possible.'
The performance is also far too low.

'I've been driving like this for 15,000 km now. About a week ago, I tried using a diode instead of the mass airflow sensor (MAF). It gave me a slightly better acceleration, but the fuel consumption increased by about 1 liter. So, I plugged the MAF back in, and everything is back to normal.'

-> That's what I thought. I hadn't really monitored the consumption before. The consumption remained elevated...
This morning (approximately 1000 km later), I was driving at a constant speed of 120 km/h (GRA) on a long straight section of the highway. When I reset the MFA (Multi-Function Display) to zero, it showed me a fuel consumption of 8.7 L .
When I then floored the accelerator, the boost pressure immediately rose to a target of just under 1 bar, but the speed remained at zero (in the straight line!). The boost pressure stayed at around 0.9 bar.
That's far too much. The average consumption for the entire journey confirms it.
Could it be caused by the faulty pump?
Here's a list of all the symptoms again:

-> insufficient performance.
-> Jerking (when disconnecting the speed limiter).
-> Excessive white smoke and rough engine running immediately after starting (even after...).
(0°C)
-> Keyboard shortcut for adjusting fuel injection start timing, approximately 40 in idle.
-> Injection timing, according to the diagram, is at the lower tolerance limit.
-> Remaining readings are within acceptable limits according to the target values.
-> No reaction to 10°C tuning.
-> The fuel injectors are new.
-> Turbocharger pressure is within normal limits (constant monitoring thanks to LDA).
-> no soot
-> rough engine running

Hopefully, the vibrations haven't caused the crankshaft bolt to come loose (the '1z problem'). But that's certainly a possibility, isn't it?
How can the high consumption be explained?

I'm going to visit my Bosch contact, Tigern, this afternoon, but he'll probably want to replace the pump...
Thank you for reading this far .

@doc snydor

If I'm interpreting your measurements correctly, your pump is set too late (duty cycle). If my memory of Haehnlein's 'mega-cold-start' thread is correct, he had similar problems. Adjusting the pump setting to an earlier timing helped with the white smoke. However, it could also be a stuck metering valve!

Hi Joergs,
I was just rereading Christian's thread about the fuel pump. It's the same situation for me. I'm just worried about why it's misadjusted. I had the car checked at Bosch about 12,000 km ago, and the fuel pump was adjusted then.
Christian also didn't experience any increased fuel consumption either.
And the issue with the quantity lever is already my problem (because of the jerking).
I will then, during the lunch break, try the test with the engine cold and in the basic settings mode, as Christian wrote... Let's see what happens.

@doc snydor

When Christian had this problem, I was also 'playing' with the fuel pump at that time. I was able to reproduce the cold start problem. Furthermore, I noticed that on my 1Z, the problem was already slightly below the center line of the diagram! Perhaps it's the same for you. Or, more hopefully. Otherwise, I would only think of a loose crankshaft sprocket!!!! Hopefully, it's not that. Also, when the fuel pump was misadjusted, I noticed an increased fuel consumption (about 6.5 liters, whereas it was about 1 liter less before). I didn't use the diagram as a basis anymore, but switched to Ulf's method of adjustment. That worked perfectly. A measurement then showed that the point was slightly above the center line in the diagram!

Okay, I just took the test.
Car cold -> Basic Settings -> 000 -> Go.
White smoke is coming from the back, and the engine is shaking.
Bingo!
So, like with Christian.
Conclusion: The pump is malfunctioning.
I could readjust them now (or just leave them as they are), but what's the underlying cause?
Hopefully, it's not the crankshaft pulley. Otherwise, it's going to be really expensive, right? And if the threaded portion is stripped, then even putting in a new, tighter screw won't help...
If I weren't dependent on the car, then...

@doc snydor

Don't necessarily assume the worst! In my case, I had suspected something similar. I got certainty by setting the engine to top dead center (TDC). The locking pin for the pump rotor went in easily, and the camshaft alignment tool also showed everything was within the correct range.
Maybe it's just a matter of the pump's settings or a broken pump mounting (I think I read something about that somewhere).
Otherwise, if it happens to be a kW wheel, the tip about using valve lapping compound, as mentioned in the tips & tricks section here, might be helpful.

Keep your head up! It will be alright!

Hi Dr. Snydor,

oh oh, it seems someone else has encountered this issue . If the locking pin and the ruler align when in the OT (Over Torque) position, then the KW screw is probably okay. It's best to check from underneath how the vibration damper behaves while the engine is running (is it wobbling??). I recently replaced a KW screw on an AAZ engine... the tightening torque is incredibly high (I had to use my feet to apply pressure)... if the screw (12.9) is installed according to factory specifications, I can't imagine it would come loose. The cases where the new screw failed can only be due to incorrect installation of the screw (impact wrench -> too tight, loose wrench -> too loose) .

I also experienced a problem where, with a pump setting that was too late, the motor struggled to start in its default settings, almost as if it was fighting for its survival.

Just position the pump slightly above the centerline, and that should do it (if you have the time, of course, to follow Ulf's method). I also sometimes experience brief idling problems during cold starts at low temperatures. I think these injection pumps sometimes fail quickly. Regarding your engine misfire: what is your injection quantity at idle (my quantity adjuster was once set too rich)? With a too-rich pump setting, it can misfire quite a bit at 50 km/h in 5th gear.

joergs wrote:

If I'm interpreting your measurements correctly, then your pump is firing much too late (duty cycle).

My score at the time was approximately 70.

joergs wrote:

Don't necessarily assume the worst! In my case, I had suspected something similar. The certainty came from setting the engine to top dead center (TDC). The locking pin for the pump rotor went in easily, and the camshaft alignment tool also showed everything was within the green range. Maybe it's just a matter of the pump's settings or a broken pump mounting (I think I read something about that somewhere). Otherwise, if it happens to be a KW wheel, the tip about using valve grinding compound, from the "tips & tricks" section here, might be helpful

.

@doc snydor

aaach, I misread... I thought you had already checked ... it's enough if you just insert the locking pin when the timing is at the top dead center (TDC) position . It should fit perfectly; otherwise, there's definitely something wrong with the timing. Check that quickly, because a timing belt usually doesn't stretch so much that the pump is misaligned!!! If the pin doesn't fit and you have to rotate it clockwise to make it fit, then the pump is "late" due to incorrect timing - the cause could be a loose crankshaft screw, a skipped timing belt, etc.

DocSnydor wrote:

If the stub is already eroded, it won't help anymore to put in the new, stronger screw...

Is that the old one still in there???? Oh, oh, that would be bad .

@haehnlein @joergs

'My car stops shaking when I disconnect the cruise control. I dream of driving at 50 in the 5th gear. At that speed, the car pulls so well, it's like I'm towing a low-bed trailer with a tank on it.'
I managed to get my car to the Bosch service center yesterday. They want to take a look at the issue and then provide a cost estimate. The pump will very likely need to be replaced. Hopefully, there won't be any problems with the stub of the shock absorber strut...
Now, I have a different car until Friday (a 3-series Golf Variant 1.8 with 75 horsepower -> it works *much* better than my TDI, especially from low speeds ).
I'll update you when there's any new information.
Definitely, thank you for your help!

@doc snydor

We've discussed the issue of the engine stuttering when the speed governor is disconnected before, and we've already explored the possible causes. Try searching for that previous discussion!

Good luck with the repair, I hope it works well and isn't too expensive! And most importantly, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the crankshaft journal is okay!

@doc snydor:

You're also a mechanic, right? Or (a timing belt expert, etc.) . Check if you can find a pump on eBay (there was one new one for the 1Z model that sold for 350 Euros) and install it... summer is starting .

@haehnlein

'I had the same idea yesterday. But as of last night, there were no new ones available! There were a few that either already had 3 million kilometers on them, or where someone was trying to make a quick profit with a knowingly defective pump! It's been a while since there were any new ones available! Unfortunately!'

and whether something declared as new is actually new, ....! you know, this platform also allows some bad actors to get rid of their unwanted items! (of course, not everything is the same...). but it's proven that if you can't get rid of something on one platform, you can always try eBay!

I've also had the idea about using eBay...
But joergs has actually already written down all my concerns. And I would definitely like to have some kind of warranty, considering the amount of money.

What would be another alternative:
www.seik.de

Just give them a call and ask. They are very friendly and even offer a warranty.

So, some new news about my reuse .
I just spoke with my Bosch contact on the phone:

Crankshaft stub would be okay, the 'timing' would be okay.
Whew, that was a close one...
Although he thought the problem with the crankshaft pulley would only occur on 'larger' engines and on 'older' 1Z engines...
That makes me a little suspicious . My Passat was first registered in 02/94. I thought the 1Z model wasn't produced for much longer!?

I somehow had the feeling that he didn't want to explain any technical details to me .

He said the defect in my car was the 'injection control valve.'

We've now agreed to replace the pump... It's been decided for a long time that it needs to be removed.

Morgen nachmittag kann ich meinen 'Kleinen' wieder holen. Ich bin ja mal gespannt, wie es sich dann fahren lässt. I hope so...
(And of course, write about what happens next.)