Passat 3BG 2005 Door Opening (Solution)

Hello,

I'd like to get your input on a problem I'm having with my Passat 3BG from 2005.

Since yesterday, the passenger door has stopped opening .
She had previously opened a few times on the second attempt, but now she has made herself unavailable for the scheduled inspection today through a complete strike.
Neither the door handle on the outside nor the one on the inside opens the door.
Both door handles move normally, but the door doesn't open.
I was able to loosen the door panel from the top, creating a gap between the door panel and the door itself. You can look inside and even touch things, but I can't find a way to unlock the lock.

Do you have any tips for me on how to unlock the door?

Greetings from the far north.

Faxes.

If you pull the outer handle, is the 'cable' still attached to the outside? Please try it and see. If it's unhooked or torn, it won't work.

Is it electronically unlocked? Is the doorbell upstairs?

Quote:

Neither the ZV (central locking system) nor the door handle, either on the outside or the inside, will open the door.

Hm, opening a door with a computer -- never seen that before.

So, what condition is the castle in? SAFE, locked or unlocked?
"Can it also be recognized by the button in the door panel...? Or can you check it via the corresponding measurement blocks (VCDS control unit 46), and are there any error codes stored?"

If the lock is "unlocked," the lever to which the external handle is connected may become stuck.

This problem has happened here before, not that long ago.
I believe "Glaube Red" was the solution; the door could only be opened by pulling it simultaneously from both the outside and the inside.

Hello,

Thank you for the quick responses, and sorry for the delayed reply. I've been...
Sunday is a day for staying in bed.

The door is set to 'Safe' in the control system (STG).

The door handle is loose at the bottom and doesn't retract when you pull the inner handle.
Pulling on the external handle doesn't affect the penis.

Unfortunately, pulling both the inner and outer parts simultaneously doesn't achieve anything either.


Here's the log.

Thursday, February 7, 2013, 12:15:57:32621
VCDS Version: RKS 11.11.5

Address 46: Comfort System
Label file: RKS\1C0-959-799.lbl
Control unit part number: 1C0 959 799 B.
Component and/or version: 85 Comfort Device HLO 0004.
Encoding: 00259
Operating number: WSC 05311
Extended information: 1C1959801 85 Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202
Extended information: 1C1959802 85 Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202
Extended information: 1C0959811 85 Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0202
Extended Information: 1C0959812 85 Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0202
VCID: 36668345123810A8CB0
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

3 errors found:

00928 - Door lock module for central locking, driver's side (F220)
27-10 - implausible signal - sporadic.
00929 - Door lock module for central locking, passenger side (F221)
27-00 - implausible signal.
00931 - Rear right central locking actuator (F223)
27-10 - implausible signal - sporadic.


Greetings from the frosty north.

Faxes.

Hello,

Is the car outside or inside, in a warm place? Can you rule out freezing?

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

It's currently outside, and it's around 0 degrees Celsius here, so it's possible.
Since the problem first occurred last week, and it was above freezing temperatures at the time...
I don't expect that to happen.

I'm familiar with that freezing feeling, but then the doors won't close properly.
I haven't given up on something for the first time.

Regards,

Faxes.

Here's a possible translation:

"The suspected issue is a broken redirection lever inside the lock. The safety lever (S) is located on the right side." Therefore, the mechanism is blocked (provided that the paddle on the locking cylinder is intact).

If all other attempts fail, I would first remove the lock cylinder and the door handle.
If the rear door is open, the mounting screw for the cylinder becomes accessible (if necessary, remove the rear door).
"If the paddle is broken, use a screwdriver to open the lock. Otherwise: If nothing can be done through trickery, I would carefully saw through the locking bar with a bent saw blade. Possibly." Cover the saw blade with tape for protection.

After that, everything as usual: replace the lock, check the cable entries.

PS: If paint damage occurs, which hopefully won't happen, it's usually cheaper than damaging the interior of the door.

Very well explained .
I'm wondering if it's possible to directly manipulate the locking mechanism to open it by applying an external voltage to the connector of the comfort control unit. Of course, the prerequisite is that the cable is in good condition up to the actuator motor. Forcing or breaking open something would save car body parts from damage.


I haven't encountered a case like this in any car before; it's more common to see defective microswitches, as is often the case with VAG vehicles.

Quote:

I wonder if it would be possible to directly manipulate the locking mechanism to open it using an external current applied to the connector of the comfort control unit?

"As far as I know, this would have to be done via the door's control unit (STG), since the STG 46 only provides control signals."
I suspect that initially, the diverter lever (which is only responsible for mechanical opening with a key) was faulty, and no one noticed. The electrical fault occurred later.

As I said, I would start by removing the lock cylinder. That can be done even with the back door open, without using force.

The passenger-side door does not have a lock cylinder, which is normal for a 2005 model, right?

I was driving about 60km earlier, and something amazing happened: the door clicked open.
and now it's working again, both inside and out *happy*
I'm not brave enough to lock it with the central locking system, I'm afraid it might not open again.
Was was that, a loose connection, or something else?

I'll take it apart tomorrow, and I'm curious to see what the lock looks like.

Good evening.

Faxes.

Quote:

The front passenger door does not have a lock cylinder, which is normal for vehicles manufactured in 2005?

According to VW, it also has one on the right side. Have you ever looked under the painted cap?

I had assumed that the lock could not be opened, even with the key.

From that point on, my assumptions are probably completely wrong.

I would advise you to also repair the other door locks.

EDIT: Either there are two possible production years, or I've found a bug at VW...

The RE "with key" door cylinder is definitely offered in 2 variants by VW.

There's no locking cylinder even under the cover; I just pried the cover off.
Underneath the cap, you can only see a cast surface; there is no slot for a key.

Good night.

Faxes.

Let's update this.

Door disassembled, lock disassembled and broken solder joint found.
soldered.
measured -> ok.
Microswitches all okay.
Mechanically tested -> OK.

Installed, mechanical test -> OK.
Test regarding the control unit: it passes once, but the error reappears the second time; reading the error code shows 'SAFE'.

Error reappeared:
F221 - implausible signal.

I've tried various things, and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Is it possible that the lock is faulty, or is there a deeper issue, perhaps a broken cable or a problem with the control unit?
Are there any experiences with this?
What should we do next?

Sunny greetings from the cold north.

Faxes.

Quote:

Is there something wrong with the lock itself, or is the problem deeper, perhaps a broken cable or a faulty control unit?

Unfortunately, a dry run was not conducted at the renovated castle. This would have quickly revealed whether the lock was actually receiving power from the door control unit.

You have mail.

Problem solved.

The small motor in the lock has failed, seemingly due to an internal issue.
Something is broken, with approximately a 50% chance that it will work again.

After checking the wiring and finding no issues...
I arranged for and installed a different lock.
After that, the problem did not reappear -> resolved.
I've completed approximately 30 cycles of opening and closing.
Since the error occurred at least 5 times, that was it.

Here's the part number of the metal part that I received instead of the locking cylinder.
The amount in the BF door was 1,483,916,167.

Thank you for your help!

Faxes.